Chris Lingwood

The level is fine, the oil is very black (it is a diesel) but fairly runny. Can't rule out clogging, can you ever? A friend of mine suggested I might just have diluted the oil a bit by flooding it, I was having trouble starting it, but it was heater problems (they weren't actually connected!).

I've also just ordered a mechanical gauge. If it gives me answers I prefer I'll put that in the instrument panel.

I really really don't want to change the main bearings. I've already got a mgb engine that needs rebuilding....and a scimitar which needs a new gear box...... The sender and the gauge are definitely matched (I bought them at the same time), that doesn't mean that it's not just wrong though. It is an inexpensive electrical one. I've got a smiths one in my mg but I'd rather not take it out, those capillaries are easy to break. The 15psi on idle was cold, the 0 was hot, not that it stayed that low, but it was definitely lower when hot 10ish I think. I have no idea about hours, the previous owner found the gauges in the bilge and promptly binned them. Its old. People do comment on how not terrible it sounds for a b series diesel though. I don't like the idea of flushing either. This engine hasn't got any leaks on it at the moment, I'm not sure I want to tempt fate. And it is almost certainly full of crud. I'd rather take the sump off and clean that first, then consider a flush. It needs an oil change first so I'll do that with some cheap 20w50, it's probably not going to stay in there long. See what happens.

I've finally got my boat moving after goodness knows how long. The engine is a BMC 1.5 which in fact sounds OK, for a 35 year old diesel on solid engine mounts with a gear box hewn from the hills! I'm unimpressed by the oil pressure though. I've only just fitted the gauge so I've no idea what the pressure is normally like (the book suggests 15psi at idle 50psi under load). I get 10-15 at idle, and 20 -25 under load. More worryingly the oil pressure went down to as good as 0 on the gauge at one point, revving it got it back up to 20psi. Would you be worried? It does need an oil change, I've not done it for ages but it's not been used much. What oil would you guys suggest? I can't remember what I put in it last time. I'm intending to (until it's fixed/better) - change the oil and filter - clean the gauze on the oil pickup (and clean the sump while it is off) - check/clean the pressure relief valve - change the pump I guess (I hope I don't need to get this far) Chris

Don't get the midland chandler doors. They are horrific quality. I also ordered one from http://www.canalshoponline.co.uk/ but after endless phone calls (never returned, not even once) and 9 months I gave up on it. I think the problem was their supplier being completely useless. None of the usual diy suspects do short ones, 1800mm should be doable though. Mine was under 1700 I think. I'm pretty sure I managed to find 1800 but I can't remember where.

I've been meaning to sort out my runners for ages. I've got little nylon wheels though because I've got MASSIVE hatches. They stick sometimes though and take the paint off underneath them. These people have more different types of plastics than I've ever heard of. So many I've not actually managed to buy any yet! http://www.directplasticsonline.co.uk/

The red stuff is heatmate. It was either loads of that or gasses in the boat. I was talking about the black thing in the centre of the picture. I don't think its vitrious enamel, wikipedia kindly informs me that should be glassy. I would say its got a rubbery texture to it, although I'm pretty sure now that its steel underneath. I really really don't want to take the collar off the roof. Its not long been painted. That's interesting about the wrong/right way up. I hadn't considered tar. I think my plan so far is to just cut the damn flue apart to get it out seeing as its cracked, then grind it off relativity flush to the top of the stove collar (outside the boat!) and use it as an adapter ring for the 4.5inch pipe (I'll get back to you on that rick if it will indeed fit). Then to refit I can feed the new flue into the stove further than the plate that's supposed to stop it. And then wedge it in and fire cement the crap out of it. I doubt that the 4.5inch pipe will fit over the questionable black thing though. How are they supposed to connect to the roof collar? Is it one of these? http://www.midlandchandlers.co.uk/CAST-SOC...PTOR_A125H.aspx Or pixie dust and fairies wings?

What on earth is this? another angle http://www.thousandmonkeys.com/chimney/2.jpg It feels rubbery! I'm tring to get the stove out becausee the flue's cracked and the tiles are starting to come off, oh and its never been bolted down! The flue's seized at the bottom so thats going to be fun for later, but this top joint is quite interesting. It had lots of sealant between the rubbery thingy and the flue to stop it leaking but surely thats the wrong way up? I don't know how far down inside the flue it goes, and its firmly cememter at the top. I don't really want to use the angle grinder in the middle of the living room! I think the chimney roof colar is about 4-4.5 inch diamenter but the flue is 4 3/4inch approx diameter. Can you even buy that size? The local steel supplier doesn't stock it so I might have to try and weld up the crack. There must be a better way of connecting that together though! Ideas please!

I'm pretty certain mine says that, I'm with euromarine, but there is an exemption for emergencies. I can see why, you could get into a bit of a mess if you don't know what you are doing, which incidentally I don't!

If its anything like the sheeting (which it is) it makes a high pitched whine. This is vexing. But if you're old you won't be able to hear it

OK, nothing as useful as battery sensing then. I shall ignore it! Cheers guys!

W and B+ are labelled in the casting so I can be sure about those. I presume B- is the casing seeing as there's nothing else big enough. Since making that diagram I've come to the conclusion that (?) is in fact D+ (because of this). So the only thing I can think that (D?) might be is a battery voltage sense? Or am I talking rubbish? Its a really scrawny wire under all that insulation. This suggests it might be, although that's a different regulator. EDIT: here it is! It says B+ through thermistor a battery over temperature measurement? That's not much use!

I was more surprised than anyone when we got ours (a present). It does spread the heat better, on ours better than most as we have no bulkheads (apart from the bathroom). I think all it really does is nudge the convection current a little so it disperses the heat better of its own accord. What you can't deny though its the frankly outrageous price! A couple of quid for the motor and blades and perhaps £10 for the peltier (retail!) and a couple of heatsinks! You could make the same thing for about £15-20 with some judicious economising. I'm mostly surprised there are no copy cats. I guess there's a patent or three. But it does do what it says it does.

That is truely epic! There will never be anything better than that! We should all stop now, the pinnacle of human achievement has been reached! Brilliant!

I've just taken the supply for the starter switch of the key switches ignition contact, then you can't start it without the ignition being on. I was going to put some kind of circuit in to stop the button being pressed more than once, but a relay from the charge light will do the trick Thanks for the idea. I've used the sprung bit of the key switch for the heaters. I've not achieved anything really, but my finger gets tired pressing the heater button sometimes (admittedly that was because a wire had fallen off ). A starter button however is on averge 35.6% more cool than a key!