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daves6guitars

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Everything posted by daves6guitars

  1. You may well be right, but it will still be ready!!
  2. Be ready for running at the Easter Boat Gathering
  3. I'm now volunteering at the NW Museum in Ellesmere Port, and we are in the process of preparing the Bolinder twin to run again after being silent for over 10 years.
  4. I've been off site for a couple of years but now retired I'm volunteering at the National Waterways Museum at Ellesmere Port. We have a 3 cylinder McClaren that was used as a standby engine to operate a swing bridge on the Manchester Ship Canal. We are in the process of overhauling it as the valve gear is a bit worse for wear. I would be interested to know if there is anyone out there who holds any sort of spare parts stock, or knows someone who does!
  5. daves6guitars

    daves6guitars

  6. Only just seen this as I've been off the site for a couple of years. Did you get anything sorted. The McClaren mentioned above on Skippys page is now in the National Waterways Museum in Ellesmere Port. I can get a copy of a manual if you want. I'm actually looking for anyone who carries spares for this , if indeed any are left!
  7. Does anyone know how you identify the model type of a Lucas alternator. On mine there are no identifying marks apart from the plastic case at the back saying LUCAS, and Made In England. It has a yellow and a black lead coming from one side, with an unused terminal just above it. On the other side is the thick red cable that goes to the Engine Management system and a smaller yellow lead coming from a separate post. Inside the case there is a rectangular voltage regulator marked Lucas 14v regulator. There's nothing wrong, it's been working fine, it's just I would like to know what type in case I have problems in the future. Thanks in advance!! http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/Daves6guitars/CIMG0461.jpg http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/Daves6guitars/CIMG0463.jpg http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj273/Daves6guitars/CIMG0464.jpg
  8. Many thanks to you all for your replies, I've had new guides fitted to the head and set at the correct height, new valve seats cut and the old valves brought up to scratch, the valve springs were measured and are within limits so I decided to reassemble minus the bottom collars anyway, which seems to fit in with TB's reply...thanks Tony. Cheers Dave
  9. I'm just off to rebuild my BMC 1.5 cylinder head, however, when dismantling it I found it had been running ( perfectly well I might add) without 7 of the 8 bottom valve cups. Its a small dished washer that sits under the valve spring, presumably to prevent wear to the head. I have had no luck from the usual suppliers locating more than 1 of these things. Does anyone know how crucial these things are. It ran fine without them, but will it run better with them? Will a flat washer of the same dimensions do the same job. Do I leave them out alltogether? Any opinion will be appreciated though I wont be able to reply till I get back......cheers
  10. Hi Mark, I'm assuming this is for 'Barking'. Is it a NB or widebeam...if it's narrow, why dont you give the Venetian a call, nice friendly place.
  11. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  12. I had the same idea myself, but I've been advised not to bother as they are not particularly accurate. There's a bit in the Waterways world this month that says much the same thing, but I'm afraid electrics is my nemesis so I would get some further advice...
  13. I,ve been using Ronseal grey floor paint on the inside of my cockpit and on the the interior floor. Two coats gives a pretty hard wearing finish, it goes on easily and dries in about half an hour. Definitely going to use it on my roof, it weathers well. Its water based too so quick touching up is no problem.
  14. Thanks Richard and thanks to all for your replies. I have fathomed it out. The central hole on the bearing cap which I thought was an oilway is in fact a threaded recess, into which is screwed an adaptor or other suitably threaded device which is then attached to a slide hammer and then removed in the conventional way.
  15. Hi Mark, my engine is now in my garage in pieces if you want to come over and have a look at it before it goes back together again!!

    Dave

  16. Thanks Robin, I got the pulley end cap off by gently tapping on the ledge of the bearing cap with a drift, it was slow but came off, but it was very very tight. I couldn't get any purchase at the other end as the drive wheel gets in the way and the crankcase casting doesn't offer a suitable ledge to try the same trick. Once the other end's off, it should be easier to ease the centre one away.
  17. Has anyone removed the main bearing caps on the BMC 1.5. I've got the one off at the pulley end, but the manual says to use a service tool. Looking at the drawing of it, I cant see how it's supposed to work, and the caps are fitted so tightly I've not been able to get enough grip on the other two to get them off. Any ideas would be much appreciated.
  18. No not ignorance Bazza, just a clear understanding of hazards, based on a lifetime of experience , not to mention a high level IOSH qualification. As for a callous disregard...I'm afraid you're wrong again. I have complete empathy with these people and the very difficult and demanding jobs they have to get on with.
  19. Didn't say or imply that either....read the post!!!!
  20. Dont remember saying anything about them not having feelings...I said it was their job...and it's their humanity that guides them to choose to do it.
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