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jessie

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Posts posted by jessie

  1. Which engine mounts?

    in Boat Equipment

    Posted

    15 hours ago, Peugeot 106 said:

    Walmsley fabricators welders  Garstang will supply, drill holes and round corners for you. Take mounts in as pattens. They are very helpful family run business 

    Thanks, that's great, made contact and looking promising😀

  3. Which engine mounts?

    in Boat Equipment

    Posted

    20 minutes ago, Eeyore said:

    Best guess is about 30mm of exposed thread (assuming 1.5 mm pitch), way too high. No wonder it required adjusting several times. 

    If I "inherited" that as a maintenance job I might say something like "it needs sorting, but live with it till you've had the life out of the mounts, it will give you time to save up for the remedial works". I'm sure you've had a similar conversation.

    Minimum of 20mm shim/packer on the rear mounts, although I might go for 25mm given that you already know the static deflection. That would leave you with approx 2mm of exposed thread on a new mount for a 25mm shim or 7mm for a 20mm shim.; both figures will increase as the mount is adjusted for settlement.

     

    Great, I feel like I'm on the right track.

    Where is the best place for buying 20-25mm flat bar in small pieces? Approached one place but they weren't interested in cutting small.

     

  4. Which engine mounts?

    in Boat Equipment

    Posted

    52 minutes ago, Eeyore said:

    Wow indeed, I don't think I could manage that with my fat fingers 😇.

    The mounts should/would have been readjusted after the first 48 hours or so, did that happen?

    Sounds like the shim plate will be quite thick. In this case weld them in and drill and tap to allow the use of set bolts to hold the mount down. This makes them much easier to position during the set up as you don't need to grow a third arm to hold the nut under the beds!

    If other people do the servicing is it possible that someone did you a favour by tightening a loose mount; by tightening the top nuts instead of the bottom one. 

     Other than that everything goes south with age as @IanD mentioned.

     

    Not sure about after first 48 hours but they have been adjusted several times when the boat was serviced by an engineer i really trust to know his stuff. He told me to never tighten the top nuts and always the bottom ones so i'm pretty sure that hasn't happened. The difference in height between a new mount (to the top of the metal cup), and this one,  is just 4mm.

    2 minutes ago, Eeyore said:

    Scary 

    I know, it definitely wasn't quite that high when bought, but i think maybe  20mm shims all round should work ok.

  6. Which engine mounts?

    in Boat Equipment

    Posted

    Wow, this thread has taught me a lot, and there is much more to this than i am likely to learn.

    One thing that confuses me is that my engine mounts look fine, the rubber isn't sticky, I can still fit my finger beneath the metal cup over the rubber, yet the engine is lower than it was, (or the prop shaft is higher) but cannot be adjusted higher as the bolts are at the top of the thread.

     

    So, i am looking at putting steel shims in to raise it so that

    a) it can be aligned correctly and

    2) the bolts can be further down the threaded rod.

     

    But, how did it drop? it's mounted on steel.

  7. Which engine mounts?

    in Boat Equipment

    Posted

    On 28/08/2022 at 23:33, Eeyore said:

    K100 mounts would be a bit hard, but the K50, K75 and K100 (shore hardness 45, 55 and 65 respectively, and may be stamped on the base of the mount) are generally similar in appearance.

    K75 mounts all round if the weights are even, and are also good for up to approx 55% of the weight on the back end and 45% on the front. Should give static deflection a bit either side of 3mm.

    Between 55% and 60% on the back end is a bit of a grey area given the available choice of mount, but above 60% on the back will require K50 mounts on the front.

    K50, AVI SM1600-45 and Aquadrive 50212 are similar specs.

    K75, AVI SM1600-55 and Aquadrive 50213 are similar specs.

    K100 similar to  AVI SM1600-65 which is a 90kg mount.

    Thanks Eeyore, I went back to look at the mounts again, and phoned a vetus dealer to check and they are indeed K75 mounts, the inverted metal cup over the rubber is slightly different on the different models.

    • Greenie 1

  8. Which engine mounts?

    in Boat Equipment

    Posted

    Hi all, When choosing engine mounts do you assume that the capacity of each needs to be somewhere above 1/4 of the engine size as there are 4 mounts, but movement will add some weight occasionally?

    I have vetus 38hp engine weighing 185kg. The mounts currently in place appear to be k100, ie a capacity of 100kg (based on their dimensions), but in the spec for these mounts it says suitable for small engines upto 80hp. 

    So, will the K100 mounts be ok? I can't say for certain that this is what is already fitted, it just looks like it.

     

  9. Vetus Engines

    in Boat Equipment

    Posted

    On 04/05/2021 at 22:10, The Gravy Boater said:

     

      When I bought the boat the engine mountings, drive plate and cutlass bearing were all replaced upon the advice of the surveyor. 

    I have the same engine, what size engine mounts were put on? i'm just about to replace mine. 

    were they the Vetus K100?

    I agree they are reliable and the gear change clunks. 

    Issue have experienced and been told is common to vetus engines is the cast engine feet that go between the engine and the flexible mounting sometimes crack due to vibration. I have replaced two in 17 years. It's worth just checking them when you do any other checks.

    • Greenie 1

  12. Screws for windows

    in Boat Building & Maintenance

    Posted

    9 minutes ago, Peugeot 106 said:

    Sounds good but the drill for M5 is 4.2mm. 3.2mm is for M4.

     

    Foe this sort of job engineers supplies really are your friend as they have all the bits and bobs in one trade counter

    D'oh! I looked it up too. I'll do a test.

    Yes I'll check out where the nearest engineers suppliers is and use that next time. 

    Hopefully next post will be look at my shiny new windows😀

     

  13. Screws for windows

    in Boat Building & Maintenance

    Posted

    Thanks so much for all the advice and suggestions, I've ordered some 5mm taps, and 3.3 drill bits and stainless steel machine screws with countersink heads. I realised there is thickness in the frame to allow for countersinking and if they are too big I'll have the tapped hole and can try a different head.

    There are currently no holes drilled in the doors, the windows came predrilled, so I can only tap the hole through the steel of the door but it's 4mm, so should hold.

    When I was ordering I couldn't see any of the flange head type, I have seen them since but the order is in now. 

    It's really good that you all took the time to offer help, thanks again.

  15. Screws for windows

    in Boat Building & Maintenance

    Posted

    7 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

     

    Have you thought about pop-rivets? They have a nice flat head and as you need to drill the holes can choose small ones. If you go that way it would be best to buy a decent pop-rivet gun, the bent metal ones are rubbish.

     

    If you use aluminum rivets they are easier to "pop", can be drilled out more easily, and may act as an anode to have a marginal effect on corrosion around the hole.

    Would that work with the steel door being lined with 1 inch of wood? i'm not sure the rivet would have room to go through and flatten out on the inside of the door, or have i misunderstood what you mean?

    4 minutes ago, David Mack said:

    You will sometimes see countersunk machine screws with nuts on the inside suggested. Which is fine when you first fit them, but a real pain if you should ever need to remove a window.

    yeah, i think it would all have been a lot simpler if the doors weren't lined, but i can't remove the lining without wrecking it 🙄

  16. Screws for windows

    in Boat Building & Maintenance

    Posted

    Thanks Tony, they are door windows and will be screwed into the metal plate of the door, holes not yet drilled as screws not yet sourced, its more a problem finding screws with a head that will fit into the channel on the window and still allow the trim to be fitted over them

    2 minutes ago, David Mack said:

    My windows are fixed with woodscrews passing through the steel into the wooden window liners. You should find a wider choice of woodscrew.

    Hadn't thought of doing it that way, but it would work as the doors are lined with inch thick ash...thanks David, i'll look into wood screws.

  24. Solar causing inverter problems

    in Boat Building & Maintenance

    Posted

    1 minute ago, Higgs said:

     

    I might be better, to extend your options, get the two appliances to work without conflict, and maybe buy that lead to set the charge controller. 

     

     

    Thanks Higgs, i'm definitely buying the lead but like the idea of having the settings for maximum charging capability for part of the year at least, i guess it feels like a compromise either way, but I agree, the no conflict and extended options approach would make life easier...I could even buy a fridge now i've got the power to run it.

    • Greenie 1
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