Onewheeler

I've never needed a tool to separate them. Fingers do the job! You just need to know where to squeeze!

Especially if you want steel with a low radiation content. I used to have a couple of tons of steel that had been recovered from Scapa Flow as shielding for environmental radiation measurements.

Although I have a cratch cover, I've always put tape over the outside of the drain holes for rough water, reasoning that if water gets in over the top, it will push the tape off.

I use an ancient washing machine on a cold wash from a 1 kW invertor. No problems, in the summer the solar replenishes very quickly.

To the above I'd add make sure that your fuel tank is full to the brim to minimise the risk of stirring up sediment, tape over orifices like well deck drains, cratch cover on if possible to stop water getting into the well deck, VHF radio and know how to use it. You'll need long mooring lines for Sharpness and Bristol. Your insurer may have an opinion and want an extra premium. Have we put you off yet?

See advice on the GHT website. https://gloucesterharbourtrustees.org.uk/leisure-craft/

A photo of the well deck and cabin door arrangements would help. If too low, you're in danger of water entering the cabin. Don't forget that you could easily get an extra few hundred kg on the front deck if a few "large" visitors got on board (self-loading ballast). In my opinion, whoever did the overplating has some responsibility for ensuring that the ballasting is OK (morally if not contractually). Where in Oxford are you? I'd come and have a look, but we're not supposed to visit our boat in Oxford under current restrictions.

Other genders or orientations are available!

Head in front of the exhaust, dangling from the gunwhales. Or a number 2 all over.

Glos Rowing Club diverted the towpath (not far) around their new slipway on the G&S (well, new ten years ago). A lot of trail boaters objected to the concept of cranes when we ran their festival on the Stroudwater, but we had to lift a few when the temporary slipway fell apart.

Yes, the bayonet fitting holding the two halves together failed on mine, dumping 250 L into the bilge. The better ones screw together. If you do replace it, try to save the little blue clip on the old one as they are well fragile and cost more than you might think as spares.

Although I accept that a flue might get hot, in practice ours seldom gets too hot to touch, at least at roof level. The 300 C rated stuff is likely to be fine. Maybe I'm tight-fisted with the fuel.

The inside of your boat is probably much warmer than the outside. The moisture content of the cold external air is low (even if the external relative humidity is high). If you're not putting much moisture into the inside of the boat from breathing, sweating or cooking the RH will be low, which is good for generating static.

It will almost certainly be fine. The water outside will be well above freezing and keep the interior safe under most conditions. I usually only winterise if the forecast is for below freezing for an extended period. Instantaneous gas heaters may suffer however as the heat exchanger will be vulnerable.

It's a short step from there to a bollard which moves to catch a thrown rope...

Here's mine. I find it handy for checking if my desk is horizontal.

Not flush mount then. I'm looking for ones like Jim's without the LED. They're not readily takeapartable to get at the interals.

Can you point me at a flush mount one without the light? Looking for one that won't light up the bed.

That was very useful. 20 minutes to remove the Webasto, a couple of hours dismantling and cleaning the insides in the kitchen (much of which was spent getting the pipe olive off the rather short stub of fuel pipe which I didn't want to cut as there wouldn't be enough to reassemble) and half an hour to fit. Nice hot water and radiator this morning ?

We had a pleasant night tied to mud weights on the Thames in August. A lovely quiet spot with no chance of tying to the bank. Only problem was all the passing boats coming alongside to ask if we were alright.

If any rotten bits are local and superficial, I'd be inclined to hack them back to solid wood with a chisel, apply preservative and cover with 6mm ply (or something of your choice).

When I used to moor against steel piling, I did consider fitting active cathodic protection to rot the piling in place of the boat. Wonder if anyone has tried it.

Point a little muffin fan at it.

Is that a euphemism?

I'd put the tank on a sheet of ply to spread the load but not insulate underneath. The bottom plate will never freeze and you'll get some protection from frost, especially if the rest of the tank is insulated.