Onewheeler

Tesco Lite appears to only be available to existing customers. Three's current offerings all appear to time out after a month, as do the other big providers - unless anyone knows differently?

Yep, keel-cooled NB engine. I shall assume it's not fitted. I was surprised as I'd not noticed it before as a service item. Ta!

Taking a quick look at the Beta web site to check current recommendations for oil grade, I noticed an entry under the routine service schedule "Check coolant “sacrificial” zinc anode and replace if necessary - sometimes frequently" (every year / 250 h). It's the only mention of a "coolant zinc anode" that I can find on their site. Is there likely to be one on a Beta 38 installation, and if so where might one find it?

Wilko also sells Morris "Classic Car" 20W/50 CC grade. Unlikely but true.

Bedazzled have always worked well for me, mostly running 10-30 V bulbs from 24 V. I did have some bulbs from Litecone which burnt out almost immediately despite being run well inside the rated voltage. I think that was just unlucky, the proprietor offered to replace them and I never quite got around to sending them back.

Marmalade. You've never tried my wife's industrial strength version. It is stronger than my teeth.

I've used a few of the former type. Surprisingly accurate for the price. Only issue is a small offset on the current, i.e. they read zero up to a few tens of mA. There are similar modules available which give bidirectional current readings, some of those need an isolated supply.

No-one has ever asked me what it's used for. Mostly heating anyway.

Are there no farm merchants near you that sell it? We have at least two with pumps within 10 km of home (Gloucestershire). It's cheaper than marina fuel too.

I've just cut up the mild steel tank on our mainland share boat. 3 mm steel and I guess it had lasted for rather less than 30 years (not being sure when it was installed or when it rusted through). It was well-knackered with several imminent failure points as well as the bit that had failed. There were also large sheets of spalled oxide in the bottom (thankfully dry when I took the machine tools to it!) If anyone needs a good quality Leesan plastic tank, there's a spare one one in my garage - 900 x 600 x 400(h). It came out of the UK boat when we moved to using a Portapotti. Open to offers, fittings thrown in! Martin/

I'd been looking at a hard-to-reach pipe olive lying in the bilge for some months before I realised it was my wedding ring that I'd lost, probably having taken it off while working on electrics (safety first!). Had it stretched to fit my fingers that had grown a bit (muscle?), then lost it again when I shed a few kg.

I've just bought one (via Ebay) as the reviews seemed good. Tried it on the glass in the woodburner at home, which hasn't been cleaned for a long while, and it worked beautifully. I'll be getting one for the boat too. Easier and cleaner than rubbing with wood ash on a damp cloth, and seems more effective (if a bit more expensive). Paid about £6 for it, so if it only lasts a winter I won't be too upset. Martin/

Wonder why the old one split. Too high a pressure, or just old and knackered (like a lot of people here!)? Martin/

But it would make the engine start quickly!

Some of the cheap Ebay modules do current in both directions, some don't. Some that do need an isolated power supply, so you would need an extra module for that. This one doesn't: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-100V-500A-Voltmeter-Ammeter-Charge-Discharge-Isolation-current-tester-12v-24v/172733947168?hash=item2837bedd20:g:H0YAAOSwbiFZQ6P-

Cholera?

Normal practise for low pressure (this is low) is to use a taper male fitting into a parallel female with a sealant (PTFE tape, plumber's string, or nowadays my preferred liquid PTFE). If mating two parallel threads there should be a sealing ring (o-ring or similar) which forms the actual seal. To make life confusing, BSPT can mean BSP Thread or BSP Taper. Normal plumbing merchants will supply a taper male and a parallel female. You'll normally only get something different if you go to a supplier of specialist fittings (e.g. for hydraulics).

Report it. Near miss reporting form here: https://canalrivertrust.org.uk/media/original/27005-safety-near-miss-reporting-form.pdf?v=1aede8 Send it to the local waterways manager unless anyone has a better idea of the recipient. Interestingly on the basis of a quick scan of their web site (I may have missed something), no-one on the exceutive, trustee body or council of CART seems to admit to responsibility for Health & Safety. Someone called Tony Stammers seems to be head of H&S (he signs off their reports). Martin/

I'd leave it on the bed with a dust sheet over it to catch the spider poo.

It's got a soft starter which is very useful with a large transformer.

I have a similar problem. 4mm steel tank on our barge, too large to remove in one piece, it's wedged in between the generator and the engine, corroded beyond repair. I'm reluctant to use a cutting wheel as it's in the engine room and sparks and dust would go everywhere. Looking at cutting it up with a jigsaw, or maybe just cutting the top off and dropping a polyethylene tank inside it. Martin/

10 kW ~ 0.72 kg / h (Calor data)

If you've only got one vent pipe and it's going from under the bed via an airing cupboard to the roof, it sounds as if there's not likely to be much exchange of air to the tank. Smells develop if the tank goes anaerobic (assuming you're not using blue liquid which will make it stink whatever). You need to encourage as much air flow as possible, ideally by having two vent pipes with their outlets separated by as much as possible. Before we got rid of it, our holding tank had two 25 mm vents from either end of the tank with hull outlets about 1.5 m apart. Pipe runs were less than 50 cm each. No loo blue ever added and never had a pong even when pumping out. Of course you might also be getting pongs from your long horizontal run! Martin/

We had an implosion during a pump-out at a service point in Warwick. I think the bloke doing it must have managed to block the vent pipe. We only realised later when it dawned that the persistent stink wasn't from something industrial on the bank but from under the bed. No brown stuff in the boat but the blue liquid which he'd added had gone onto the floor. It was last thing on a Friday and the nice technical bloke at Elsan told us to use sodium carbonate to neutralise it. Not an easy thing to find in the next local shop - indeed, we never did. Mopped it out thoroughly with water. Had to sleep at the front with the doors open for a few nights and used a bucket found in the hedgerow for number twos and for the wife's needs. That was a rather crude tank which had been made from one of those blue industrial plastic drums. It was replaced with a sturdy polyethylene tank (available if anyone wants to make an offer, it's now in my garage) before that was taken out in favour of a portapotti.

Yes, I was wary of the common statement that the Willis is usually used on a vented system. The one I am looking at is rated to 3 bar, which is adequately above our system primary pressure and the accumulator / expansion tank is plenty large enough to cope with heating up the water. Still thinking about it but there don't seem to be major issues that can't be resolved.