Onewheeler
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Posts posted by Onewheeler
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Looking at the river this morning it's likely to be on red for a few weeks yet. It's not far off our landing stage in Oxford and has been for a long while.
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+1 for the Anderson powerpole connectors, 30 A will be fine for a fridge, you can get panel mount holders for them so you have something like a normal plug/socket arrangement. The connectors are cheap too (look on Ebay).
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Are you sure that you won't need any welding done on the hull in the near future (at 120 y.o. it's a routine thing at docking)? You'll likely need to strip the celotex out first.
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12 hours ago, frangar said:
I was looking at a Beko fridge in Currys the other day that was suitable. Have a look on the Beko website
The website lists no under counter fridges as having a minimum operating temperature below 10 C.
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Beko freezers are often rated as suitable for garages, and I'm looking at one for home. Can't find a fridge rated for that sort of temperature. I could live with no ice for the G&T when it's very cold on board, that's going to the pub to warm up with a pint of Titanic Plum Porter weather 😋
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I'm thinking of replacing our ancient but functional LEC 12 V fridge with a mains powered one (various reasons, but not in a rush to do it). Now, most mains fridges have a climate rating of 10 C or 16 C to something fairly high. What happens when the temperature in the boat drops substantially below the lower temperature range? At some point presumably the fridge gives up and ambient temperatures are cold anyway, but does anything undesirable happen? The boat is unoccupied for at least several days a week, but I'd like to leave the fridge on so that we have ice for a G&T when we get back.
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59 minutes ago, nicknorman said:
I’ve never really seem much point in these lights - we don’t have one.
If you boat on the mainland you'll find reversed polarity or centre tap are not uncommon.
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It looks very Warwickshire Avon, that appears to be a river on the other side of the gates.
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Don't forget that H2S deadens the sense of smell so it may reach fatal concentration without being noticed.
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1 hour ago, blackrose said:
You can use steel plate or even aluminium plate of you can't be bothered to paint it.
Here's a tip, instead of drilling and screwing just unclip the bottom cover of the pump and use a bit of polyurethane adhesive to stick it to the plate. Once it's cured 24 hours later clip the pump into position. You can use any of the sealant/adhesives: CT-1, Marineflex, Stixall, etc. I always give both surfaces a key and wipe over with a dab of white spirit to remove any dirt and grease. If you do that it will never come apart.
Once a pump is attached to a plate either with screws or adhesive it can only really suck water up from the pump sides but just don't use so much adhesive that you seal up the holes in the base.
I like that idea! There aren't any holes in the base of my pump so no change, and I think there are some suitable bits of steel in the garage...
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Older Daf engines are reliable and spares fairly readily available. They may well smoke a lot. We have been asked if there is a new pope when we have started ours. It's also noisy and drinks a lot of diesel (Daf 175, 1959 vintage).
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Any tips for keeping a Rule submersible bilge pump in place in the stern bilge? A magnet in the filter? The 19 mm hose is inflexible enough that keeping the pump on the base plate is difficult.
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My inclination would be to use an intermediate pulley if it can be mounted somewhere suitable.
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We've got these: https://bedazzledledlighting.co.uk/product/cab8-brass/ mounted as recessed pairs every 2 m or so, each pair switched. Plenty of light, we seldom have more than half of them on.
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3 minutes ago, nicknorman said:
This may be true (depending on rating of transformer vs breaker and its design) but it is perhaps worth pointing out that it is random depending on the magnetised state of the core when power was removed, and the exact point in the 50 Hz waveform that the connection is made. So if it does trip, reset the breaker and try again. Hopefully after a try or two the stars will align and the thing will power up without tripping the breaker.
Exactly! I've recently replaced my 1 kW IT (the soft-start circuitry had been on the to-do pile for several years!) with a GI so that interruptions to the shore power don't risk the MCB tripping, the charger ceasing to charge and the fridge flattening the batteries. (Also to take advantage of the new, 16A power supplies that the marina has installed). The OP's IT looks like it is just a transformer.
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Is there any sort of soft start circuitry in that transformer? Without it you might well find yourself tripping the shore MCB when the power is connected.
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I've got one of the ebay ones. Works well but as others have said you usually need to go down one size in the dies. It's very annoying to make what looks a good crimp which can be pulled apart with a tug.
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A clunky solution would be a cheap phone in a waterproof enclosure on a stick outside, with a USB lead back to your laptop to charge and tether it.
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Whatever power immersion you buy, remember that it should be a marine type. If I remember correctly (I'm sure someone will correct me otherwise, I made a mental note at the time as I was thinking of fitting an external immersion), domestic immersions have a secondary over-temperature thermostat which will trip at something like 70 C and need manually resetting. A marine immersion has a secondary thermostat which trips at a higher temperature to cope with engine heating (will it auto-reset?)
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Never heard of any requirement in the UK for inland boating, but I had a pleasant day out from tooley's boatyard in Banbury doing the ICC for the mainland.
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27 minutes ago, David Mack said:
A bucket is tapered so a plug of ice can rise up as it expands. The same could not happen with a cylindrical container.
There's a huge difference in the aspect ratio between a pipe and a bucket too.
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6 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said:
If you have thermostatic valves on the shower and maybe the hot water system, drain then well then crack open the cold feeds as if there is water left in the valve and it freezes, the non return valves will allow pressure to crack even brass bodies. Plastic gubbings will stand no chance.
A good point. Most shower controllers of recent years have NRVs to comply with domestic water regs. You can't empty the feed pipes by blowing down them, but you can alternate between fully hot and fully cold settings and suck on each side.
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On 18/10/2023 at 10:27, Naughty Cal said:
To the OP, don't forget to either drain down the boats fresh water tank and open the taps. Or again keep the boat heated.
And drain the shower controller, waste pump and fresh water pump.
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Not a problem, although I'd rather not have it frotting directly against the collar. So long as there is a space (filled with sealant) it should be OK.
Concrete shower base removal
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted
I'd try an SDS drill set to hammer, with a chisel bit. See if you can open up the interface between steel and concrete - once started it might all ping free.