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Floating Male

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Birmingham

Previous Fields

  • Occupation
    Retired Technical Dir
  • Boat Name
    Sans Souci

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  1. Hi That is what is in the boat. It has also worked for me for a long time (26 years on this my third boat) but I forgot to replace empty one once (probably old age) so just thought these would be an insurance against memory loss! 😂
  2. Well I am a bit surprised by various comments, which really don't help. 1/ I cant rock the cylinders because they have clamps. (As required by BSS) 2/ Likewise a spring balance is no use, as the clamps in my installation are rock solid and cylinders wont move at all. (BSS man likes this!) 3/ The magnetic ones are no use because you cant see them inside the gas locker. Having considered all of the above the gauges seemed a good solution. Other boaters use them and consider them great! Thanks for the link Springy. I had not come across that o
  3. I have asked the supplier, but no response as yet. This item seems to be pretty standard and is sold by various LPG fas companies.
  4. They were bought to show how much gas is left in the bottle, as I have been caught out once forgetting to get replacements!! Seemed like a good idea and various people agreed! 😟
  5. I have just purchased a couple of POL pressure gauges from ebay;- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184394968015 That look like this;- So this just screws into the cylinder but the existing hose end wont screw into the outlet. (It goes about a quarter of a turn and locks) I had assumed at this point that the outlet was to some other standard, until I tried putting the second gauge into the outlet of the first and it fits! So I have two POL fittings that seem to be different. How can this be? The only obvious difference is that my existing hose ends have the solid (N
  6. D+ & D- are the data lines that you wont use. Vbus is +5V and Gnd is -ve Marks 1/4 😀 and yes you will have to do a bit of soldering. What else would you be doing at the moment???
  7. Hmm. I had a quick look and couldn't find a lead - USB C to bare wire. You could just cut one of course. In the long run why not fix a usb type a socket on the output of the 7805 board (all in a box) so you can use the lead I presume you already have? I may be missing the point as I'm not sure of exactly what you have. John
  8. Grr... Bloody touch screens. I fitted mine about 27 years ago. No idea current thinking, but as often happens BSS examiner variability may apply?
  9. BTW It just occurred to me. (Old age time lag) ... It is worth making the fire surround as reflective as possible. The stove will be radiating a fair bit (Being black!) and the lighter the surround the more this radiation will be reflected, rather than absorbed and thus heating the surround. My surround is cream glazed tiles. In practice this surround only gets slightly warm, so fire hazard is not a worry.
  10. I would have thought distance would be quite sufficient unless your stove is tall and thin. My gas pipe runs under gunnel, but behind cladding. The top of the stove is probably almost a foot lower. Only thing the BSS man asked was it a continuous length (No joins) which it was. BTW It is worth making sure your installer does fit with no joins. Mine runs through bulkheads and into locker all as one piece. Drilled out fittings where it passed through steel work. John
  11. The 7805 board replaces your USB driver. So the input comes from your 12V boat electrics. and the output is 5V and feeds the Pi and DAC instead of the output of your USB driver. Both do a similar job, but the USB device is more efficient (But noisy!). Regarding learning, I'm not aware of a better site. Having spent 50 years doing electronics and sound I've sort of passed that point! Anyway it sopunds like your almost there. John
  12. If you want to try the 7805 then this module would do the job and replace your usb drivers. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/L7805-LM7805-Three-Terminal-Voltage-Regulator-Module-Power-Supply-7-5V-20-to-5V/161798846149?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160811114145%26meid%3Dbcbbddcf1d4f43c8a693065c2699fb18%26pid%3D100667%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D8%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D161798846149%26itm%3D161798846149%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2334524%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2334524.c100667.m2042 Also be aware the transformer will only solve the problem if it is a ground lo
  13. The root of the problem will be the switching converter as Nick has said. If there is a ground loop issue, then filtering may well not work. (I tried inductors, capacitors on my media player and had no joy.) Try swapping the battery to just one of the devices to see if one or other is the issue. If either sorts it (ie one device on battery other on USB) then you have a ground loop problem. Otherwise it's plain supply noise. Consider using an analogue regulator such as a 7805. Will be slightly less efficient, but with the small currents involved may not be an issue.
  14. Quite apart from safety you need a significant gap to let the heat out into the boat, which is the main aim?? My stove is in a corner mounted at 45deg to the wall, so lots of exposure. The only part near a wall is the rear and as there is a back boiler it doesn't get so hot anyway! May not be any help, but during lockdown I have to get involved in something. 😁
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