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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

Floating Male

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  • Occupation
    Retired Technical Dir
  • Boat Name
    Sans Souci

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  1. Just a thought... I have a similar setup. On mine the 'fault' is battery low. I find that having the engine running provides just enough extra umph into the batteries to fool the inverter into running ok. Worth a try anyway. John
  2. How about using your multimeter to pin point the fault? 1/ Measure across the MICC terminals that monitor the start battery. If Reading is around 13.8 the MICC (Or your multimeter???) is faulty. Otherwise;- 2/ Measure between Battery + and MICC + If reading is around 3V the the fault is in this cable. Step back through the wiring until you get a change back to 0V;- That is where the fault lies. If reading is 0V then all is well withis lead, repeat this test with the negative. You are now a fully fledged electrical test engineer. :-) HTH John
  3. Before you start jacking the engine check the mounts to see if they can be dismantled. The mounts on my engine have a threaded rod that can be unscrewed from the flexible base. You loosen the lower nut on the engine foot then unscrew the threaded rod from the base. Swap the flexible base and screw rod back into the new base. Tighten nuts on engine foot. Repeat for each mount. The engine remains in position supported by the other three mounts.
  4. Perhaps you could start with Sheffield Marine? Not that I know anything! Or Google 'Sheffield Chandlers' (which is what I did)
  5. Totally agree. Cigarette lighter sockets are best avoided. The cheaper 'plugs' for these frequently aren't solid enough to stay in properly. The 12V usb outlet wired in gets my vote. John
  6. As catweasel says. If you Google '12v phone charger' you will find various items that will change 12v to 5v on a usb socket. John
  7. Wow £60. Glad I don't need one! ?
  8. Don't forget that even if you do everything right 'one' will go first. You would be even more put out if they all failed at the same time! Thing to look out for (As noted above) is if always the same location or some other consistent aspect. Always amused me when customers phoned up with problem saying "It worked fine last time I used it" ?
  9. A note of caution if you end up taking the tiller off to examine the top bearing. (Which looks likely given the clearence) At this point the only thing stopping your rudder sinking to the bottom is the bottom cup. It is wise to have a rope supporting the rudder in case you dislodge it. Most boats have a hole at the top of the rudder to do this. And be aware the whole thing is heavy!! Took two people to lift mine when it dropped during a top bearing change and another to guide end back into cup!!!
  10. Yes A guy called Pete Fisher has been heavily involved with that. He lives aboard the narrow boat moored along side.
  11. Spot on. The mount under the oil filter! Grrr. And I only had two spares. I will probably change the others when I can get replacements. Many thanks both. P.S. How can you be an "ex"-brummie? Surely once you are a brummie you are for life? I still got called a brummie even when I lived in Spain!
  12. Are yes, I sort of suspected that but went with the way I did it last time. Next time I will try that. Is it as simple as that, or are there any pitfalls? ?
  13. Thanks both. That should reduce the amount of swearing to be heard from Me! ?
  14. One of the front mounts on my engine needs replacing. To do this I have to Jack up the front end by an inch or so. I will replace both front mounts. The engine is connected to the prop via an aqua drive. Question is;- Will the drive be able to cope with this change of angle or do I need to disconnect it?
  15. Yes thanks. Only problem is choosing one! ? I guess the leisure direct one at £75 looks like the latest version of what I have. So unless anyone has a specific ? or ? item I will go for that.
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