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Floating Male

Member
  • Content Count

    81
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Birmingham

Previous Fields

  • Occupation
    Retired Technical Dir
  • Boat Name
    Sans Souci

Recent Profile Visitors

1939 profile views
  1. Floating Male

    Battery wiring at fault? 12v socket reading jumping.

    Not necessarily. It depends where you are measuring and also the extent of the poor connection. With high currents a poor connection could simply be a terminal not tight.
  2. Floating Male

    Battery wiring at fault? 12v socket reading jumping.

    It seems as if there may be more than one issue here. The two most likely causes of a fluctuating reading are either volt drop due to loads varying (as per chewbacka) or a poor connection. The 6 hour charge time may be sensible depending upon the state of your batteries. Without being able to monitor the charge current you are not able to tell how far you have got with charging. If you dont get a eeasonable charge daily then the whole situation will rapidly deteriorate. You need that monitor!!! Also it may be that we need more info. Is the "charger box" some sort of split charge from a single alternator, or something else?
  3. Floating Male

    Rule shower waste box

    Afraid not. And since it worked so well I have fitted shelves in the cupboard that make it tricky to get to! However it is just an open top box of the right height. I will look to see if I can find the float switch I used. But it was 24 years ago.☺
  4. Floating Male

    Rule shower waste box

    Whilst agreeing with the above views, you might like to consider what I have;- I made a fibreglass box which is the hight of the gap below the shower plus the depth of the tray. This sits along side the tray in an adjacent cupboard. It has a float switch (An industrial one) that runs a whale gulper. Features; - It runs automatically but unlike the above. It's solid and isn't going to leak. It has no filter to clog up. If the float switch fails, ( happened twice in 24 years) it's obvious because of the water in the shower tray, but no water goes into bilges. I have never seen anything like this for sale however. HTH John
  5. Floating Male

    App "Wish" nuisance

    In response to anti - android I like to recount the recent brag of an iPhone user;- "How much do you think I paid? he smiled." "Too much I said" -"Go on he chided" "A four figure number I said" - "No a three figure he responded in triumph" "what?" "1200" - "But that's four figures" - "No - There only three, I don't count the zeros" Apple user brain size????
  6. Floating Male

    Mifi device with twin antennas

    Just to clarify. A splitter will most definitely not help. As the name implies they send half the signal to each output. (At best) Dual aerials should help, but as per the info in the link it depends upon the configuration of the aerials. On a boat there may even be some virtue in having separate aerials mounted well apart because if you are cruising each mooring location will potentially have dead spots. You may be only picking up on one (hence slower) but better than nowt. :-)
  7. Floating Male

    Drive Plates, how long do they last?

    Hmmm Well another variant... My drive plate (which is a Centa CF) has no pegs like the one Pete has shown above. The Centa plate is just two concentric rings with rubbers in between. If the rubbers disapeared then there would be no noise (or drive!) My engine had one similar to the above but when the gearbox played up about 10 years ago TW Marine recomended changing drive plate for the Centa. As I always do as I am told (And had an income then) it got changed!!! Hope this doesn't start a drive plate comparison war. John
  8. Floating Male

    Drive Plates, how long do they last?

    Phew! Of course I had had two coffees, which trumps one tea any time. :-) Could add that in my case the rubber had disintegrated and jammed the whole thing, so simply no movement. John
  9. Floating Male

    Drive Plates, how long do they last?

    Well I am not an expert, but have had first hand experience! First I don't understand the F/R thump comments. The engine drive plate is between engine and gearbox, so the thrust is in the same direction for forward and reverse. If you (or they) are talking about coupling between gear box and prop shaft then Ok. Second, as I understand it, the engine drive plate is there to smooth out the engine rotation before the gearbox. My gearbox recently started to slip. On taking all apart it transpired that drive plate rubbers had collapsed possibly leading to premature failure of gearbox. There was no obvious evidence of this. I might add that I am somewhat paranoid about odd noises being something of a sound engineer. :-) Having stripped down gearbox and plate myself I would be in the 'wait till it goes wrong' class. Cost more, but avoided grafting for as long as possible!!! Hope this helps John
  10. Floating Male

    Propeller gap

    It was about 4 feet deep at bank, so decided against paddling. (I can't swim!) Was hoping when bizzard posted he had invented a brass magnet. Life is full of disappointments.
  11. Floating Male

    Propeller gap

    A small diversion.... The gap between my prop and the back of the boat is currently about 25 metres! It dropped off when slowing down to moor in Brum after a particularly foul trip up the 21. ? All attempts to recover have failed.
  12. Floating Male

    Rust - Remove or Convert

    OK Perhaps some refinement. In the past I have used Kurust , after the hull has been pressure washed and hand wire brushed where rust shows. Since this is water based I have seen no issue in doing the same day as the washing. I prefer not to grind, since this seems to be a waste of the steel I paid for. :-) I am lead to believe that the residue is ready to be over coated. Perhaps a brief go with hand wire brush would aid keying? Would this cover the "How well does it stick" aspect as Tony mentioned? I am only using bitumastic by the way. Not sure how well that sticks anyway? John
  13. Floating Male

    Rust - Remove or Convert

    I am due to do hull blacking soon. Looking at Jenolite products they seem to do one that converts rust (I presume like kurust) and one that removes to bare metal. Any thoughts on which is better? I have always used the converter in the past, as it seems to be ok to just coat over it directly. Is this the case? TIA John
  14. Floating Male

    Connecting excess solar to water heater.

    After a bit of research I found this that looks like what you are aiming for. He has a very simple way of running the 3Kw heater at a lower power, that the solar can drive. I should have thought of this but have been retired too long! Brain is now in rest mode. Should add that I dont think this is a job for your average electrician. Also at the risk of telling you what you know the 12V heaters will require some heavy cabling. A 12V 600W heater (As from Bimble) takes 50 Amps! Whatever route you go care needs to be taken that the switching of power is done safely, or you could get a pretty big BANG! Perhaps you should not be discouraged and if you sort it post back here and we can all copy! ? Hope this helps John
  15. Floating Male

    Connecting excess solar to water heater.

    Well your first problem is that you are looking to power a 3Kw heater from 1.25Kw (Max) of solar. And that doesn't include the losses in your inverter and solar controller. A 12v heater will not in itself reduce the current drawn. (Apart from removing the loss in the inverter.) As a minimum you should consider a smaller immersion heater. An alternative might be to use a phase angle controller to reduce the effective power of the heater, but I suspect you would be heading into uncharted territory regarding what the inverter would tolerate.
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