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Everything posted by nicknorman

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  8. I suspect the confusion may lie in that Gareth envisages a pipe of exactly the correct length that could have its end protected prior to passing it through scratchy bulkheads etc, whereas the reality is that the pipe is normally cut in situ so there would be little point in protecting the end before that.
  9. We have a mastervolt 2500VA inverter that we leave on 24/7, and a 12v fridge, with 450AH of batteries. The inverter is about 18AH per day to leave on doing nothing, the fridge about 30AH so it's not a problem for the batteries and of course the actual consumption from the batteries is less since the engine is typically running for say 8 hrs a day. I guess if we had a 230v fridge the consumption would be the same. I'd just question the need for a freezer since they do seem to at least double the energy consumption over just a fridge. Do you really need it for a leisure boat? We have an icebox in the fridge for the all important G&T ice and occasional ice cream / frozen peas, and don't miss a feeezer (but do relish the space thus freed up!).
  10. Does it say that the BSS man should establish whether the boat is subject to the GSIUR? - Yes, for the reasons we've discussed. Does it say that if it does, the man should check for compliance with said GSIUR? - No, it doesn't. Anything else is your invention.
  11. You misunderstand and at the end, make a non-sequitur conclusion. The questions have to be asked so that a non-GS BSS inspector knows not to "work" on the gas system aka replace the test point cap. Nowhere in the BSS does it say that if the boat is residential and therefore (allegedly) subject to the GSUIR, that the BSS bod must then trawl through all the text of the GSIUR looking for any non-compliance. That is the bit you are making up,
  12. But there is no requirement for a BSS bod to check for compliance with GSIUR. A BSS bod doing that is exceeding his remit. Anyway the whole issue is silly as I think we both agree, since for example a boatyard could sell a second hand boat with gas boiler in shower room and a new BSS, and neither they nor the chap issuing the BSS can be responsible for predicting how the boat will be used in the next 4 years. This is why BSS bod pragmatism on this stupid and irrational point is to be commended IMO.
  13. Yes this is exactly the point. There is no difference in the boat's requirement to meet BSS whether or not it is a live aboard. The only difference in requirement relates to the guy doing the inspection, who needs the appropriate GS qualification. However it is a pretty trivial reason in that the sole issue is that of replacing the gas test point seal after doing the gas tightness check. And of course a competent residential owner could do this himself. It is simply a matter of screwing the cap back on (they have rubber-type seals) and checking for leaks with fluid. How hard is that? I would also question the BSS's interpretation of GSUIR which talks about including boats used for residential purposes. BSS has taken this to mean a differentiation between live aboard and leisure, however when we spend a few weeks on our boat we are obviously resident on the boat for that duration, and when we are not on the boat it is not being used. So by my interpretation of the GSUIR our boat is used for residential purposes, but according to BSS, not. So the whole issue is a silly bureaucratic one not related to safety and as such, if I were a live aboard I would consider a BSS chap who told me to scarper whilst he did the test to be pragmatic and sensible. But it wouldn't arise because I would simply engage a BSS bod with the necessary qualifications! Same price as one without the qualifications!
  14. Simply because these devices are not room sealed and the shower room is usually a smallish confined space with limited fixed ventilation. Any flue malfunction / bad flame pattern is likely to emit CO which, in the confined space can quickly raise CO to dangerous levels. So it's probably fine whilst the boiler is working as-new but the tolerance for defects is very limited. But you're right, whether live aboard or not is obviously irrelevant.
  15. Can you cite the section of the BSS that differentiates between a live aboard and non live aboard?
  16. A couple of reasons I can think of. If it were NC and there was a problem with the contactor coil circuit whilst the inverter was on you'd have a clash between the inverter supply and the shore supply. Plus I suppose "off means off" and if someone turned the Combi Off and then got a shock from the circuit they'd want to sue MV.
  17. Not if it's like our Mastervolt combi, turning it to off opens the pass-through relay.
  18. Yes I think all lead acid batteries are a bit "lazy" when new, perhaps due to being unused for a while. But with that type, full capacity is reached pretty quickly, just a few cycles. Unlike semi-traction batteries which seem to need 100 cycles or so to reach full capacity.
  19. Anyway he's recently sold his boat, citing old age / infirmity.
  20. Not really! I can just read the regulations!
  21. Just turn the charging current down to zero. However I would almost guarantee that using shore power to generate 12v will be far cheaper than doing it via the engine or a generator.
  22. That perhaps explains why you don't get much flow out of the bleed valve, 30-50cm is not a huge head, although imsuppose it depends on what you mean by a dribble. Do you know that age of the plumbing / radiators? Unless they are pretty old I'd doubt it's all gunged up. Anyway a few thoughts: there is quite a volume of water in the system and it might take 30 mins or so to get properly hot. The heat has to be going somewhere so is the heater running steadily, or cutting in and out? If the former, it's probably just that it takes longer than you think to heat up. If the latter, something is blocked. We have seen the gate valve that throttles the calorifier loop but perhaps there is a similar valve elsewhere that throttles the radiator loop - if so maybe this valve is not fully open? Radiators are typically plumbed in parallel and so there can be poor flow to the distant radiators. This is what the second valve in each radiator is for - balancing the system. Typically the radiator nearest the heater would be quite well shut down, progressively further away rads more opened until finally the furthest rad would be set fully open. If one rad won't heat up, try partially closing the vales on the rads that do get hot. Finally, that silencer is dangerous. Do you have a CO alarm? If not please get one! And if you don't, don't run the heater until you get the silencer repaired.
  23. Bearing in mind your other thread, I suggest that loop to the calorifier has the gate valve wide open so all the circulation is going round the calorifier. Shut that valve right down and try again. What is the height difference between the top of the radiator and the header tank? If it's in the gas locker then perhaps it's only slightly above the radiator top?
  24. Yes for 1: it is a matter of balancing the flow to the calorifier and to the radiators. It might be that you can leave it fully open since the pipe bore within the calorifier is less than the main loop to the radiators (or should be) and anyway, bear in mind that if you run the heater in the summer to get hot water, you'd want that valve fully open since the radiators will probably mostly be shut off. Just bear in mind that the calorifier can't absorb the Webasto's output for long and it will start to cycle, which is a BAD THING so maybe at least leave a towel rail radiator on. We normally leave that valve fully closed in winter since we want all the heat going to the radiators and normally the water is heated via the engine. But it is up to you. For 2 yes it's an automatic air vent, leave the cap slightly undone. For 3 looks like a silencer designed to be used on the outside of a vehicle and that little pipe is to allow condensation to escape from the inside of the silencer. Since that is inside your boat it was clearly installed by a complete cowboy who should be shot. Very dangerous in terms of carbon monoxide poisoning. Get a proper boat one, from the manufacturers. They make kits for fitting to vehicles (cheaper) and kits for fitting to boats (more expensive) and the installer has obviously decided not to fork out for the proper boat silencer. As I said - COWBOY!
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