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Tigerr

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Posts posted by Tigerr

  1. The new to us boat has quite a high cratch deck, and a low cratch height. It's got a cover, with a single zip. 

    It's very cramped to get in and out of, and rolling the cover right back to the beam is a faff. Neither of us is as flexible as we used to be.

    Anyway, had an edge  scrape in Husbands Bosworth tunnel a few days ago, entirely my own fault, and the cover is damaged. 

    To repair, and insert another zip to open it all the way up, is quite expensive in itself.  So I am thinking of remodelling the cratch so it works better for us. 

    My idea is to raise the front centre by about 8 inches, fabricating a hardwood surround to fit onto the existing cratch front, with long tapered infils down the sides to take a nice triangular profile up, still inside the 'bridge hole curve'.

    Likewise a new higher back roof piece profiling down to meet the rails. Then get a new cover made to fit, zipping right up so one can enter easily, and indeed stand. 

    Yes it will be higher than the boat roof, but in sympathy, perhaps a bit more of a lump at the front, but still aesthetically  ok.

    Currently the boat's air draft seems very average if not a bit lower than many other boats I see. The boat next door looks to have about a 12" higher front peak.

    I used to cruise the old boat with curved profile top boxes that put 10 inches on, and never had a problem with bridges, branches etc in 10 years. 

    But, the front end is more sensitive. Is there any reason what I am thinking of is a bad idea? 

  2. So, the new to us boat has an old school Pioneer radio. Its wired into a nice set of speakers but it is one of those pioneer models with a completely incomprehensible control system, much like the one I installed in our old boat in 2012.  Old school single line type interaction, with abbreviations that probably made sense in Korea or Japan but could be enigma code to us old folks. 

    I suspect plenty on here will recognise this little hell. 

    We cant even find the off switch. we have to turn the damn thing off via the control panel at the back of the boat. 

    I dont think it has bluetooth capability, but even if it does it is so far down a button pressing menu selection menu that we've never gone there. We rejoice if we can get anything other than the default of 1980's pop, which we both loathe. 

    What I want it for is to play my audiobooks and music. 

    I am capable of installing and wiring a new system, did so on the motorhome a few years ago. Got the crimping tools.

    I can also manage drilling in and mounting a local on/off, but I'd rather it was easily found on the radio itself.

    I mounted a Sony system in the van, it's not bad, but I suspect there are better choices. 

    What I'd like, is a nice intuitive touch screen based system, with bluetooth, that I could replace the old model, but use the same slot in the wood bulkhead. 

    I am sure someone here knows what I want. 

     

  3. Your subfloor appears to be sound.

    Like you, I'd always go for a wood floor. 

    It's impossible not to track mud and wet into the boat, and our first boat had carpet tiles, with a big stack of replacement tiles.

    Never liked them, and we replaced with karndean planking over a ply base - looked like a boat, and could be mopped. Once down, you'd be hard pressed to tell it wasn't a lovely oak planked floor. It was faultless for 10 years, could be mopped, very hardwearing, and looked lovely. 

    Yes, it was cold. We wore thick socks, and in the summer the dog loved cooling off on it. 

    I'd have liked proper wood, engineered or other, but you do have to be confident of dry conditions. Wet or damp will destroy that lovely wood flooring, staining it in an instant, and then warping etc. You must be completely confident of having a dry, reliably dry, subfloor. 

    We did have a problem in the bathroom, and all that was needed was chopping out some subfloor, and replacing the karndean - easy job. I suspect not so with a solid glued wood floor. 

    It only takes a couple of hours of an open hatch dripping to ruin an engineered floor. An ongoing damp bilge might take longer, but in the end it's going to grow mushrooms. 

    You do have an obvious issue of wet related rot by the door. That is a huge warning indicator. 

    I am not connected to Karndean - just think it's an ideal boat flooring solution. 

     

  4. 20 hours ago, system 4-50 said:

    I have a lathe.  I can probably make an adapter if you can be clear about what you need.  For free.

    That is an extraordinarily generous offer. I am going to see if the swager tool works first, for the sake of pride and sunk costs, and then I may call on you.

    I know exactly what the adaptor I would need looks like, in my mind, and the specs are straightforward from the micrometer. I can see how a lathe is a game changer. 

    I am baffled that such a thing doesn't seem to exist in the world of camping/awning but so far I've found nothing. Learned about swaging though. 

     

  5. 4 hours ago, IanD said:

    Rather than trying to expand the pole tube and get a screw thread in the inside of it -- which will probably weaken it -- why not grind/file/turn off the thread from the 25mm screwed boss on the ratchet mount so you get a smooth peg the same diameter as the tube inner? All you need then is a way to hold the pole onto the peg and stop it turning, so drill a hole through and put a pin/bolt through, just like a tiller.

     

    P.S. BTW it's not weight I'm worried about, that's no problem -- it's sideload from the antenna at the top of the pole in high winds. Assuming you use one of the standard MIMO flat panel antennas like the Poynting, having something this size flat-on to the wind (Murphy's law) at the top of a 3m pole is going to put quite a lot of strain on the mounting at the bottom, and the weakest point will probably be the bottom of the antenna pole where it meets the mount since this is where the biggest stress is. It depends how big the panel antenna is, how strong the wind is, and how strong the (aluminium?) tube wall is -- a 3m pole 1" diameter with a panel on the top might not survive a gale, or might be perfectly OK... 😉 

    Your peg idea is a good one. I should be able to get a very stiff push-fit and epoxy mount that way. Might be the way I go in the end. I have found a 25mm swaging tool though and I am hoping this will answer. 

    Re loads, it's a pole ariel. Light. I've made a polymorph top mount with a handy chromed steel plate on the top, onto which the ariel snaps if I want to use the pole for height. 

    Although the pole could theoretically extent to 3m, I have in fact already cut off the bottom metre as the tube was too wide by far. It's a strong pole, has held up our washing line loaded with wet duvets etc for years. The over-width tube is however ideal as a reinforcing sleeve for the stud.

    Plus, I don't boat in storms anyway, wouldn't use the ariel mount in that sort of weather, and it is not going to get more than occasional use - if there is signal at roof level that's where the ariel will go, which is much more convenient. It's not a permanent installation,  the ariel lives inside when not actually being used. However it just so happens that in my marina right now, you can get a good signal standing on the boat roof, and almost no signal at roof level! The most stress it will get will be when I board and rock the boat. 

    Please accept my apologies for my reactions last night, I was rather heaviliy medicated!

     

  6. In our own way, we are all like those astronauts aren't we. 

    Voyaging out into unknown territory, reliant on technology that we might not fully understand, thrown into situations of unexpected nature. 

    That is of course the charm and delight of boating isn't it. Without the constant element of risk, however small, boating would be truly dull. 

    For me, Canalworld has operated for the many years as a sort of 'operation control'. You can always call back in and get vital advice. I have found it a source of reassurance and useful advice over a long time. 

    But it's always important to know that while many may be offering advice, there are just as many for whom the sweet satisfaction of advice is diluted in the heady mix of 'putting them right'. 

    For the astronaut though, being told they've got the wrong kit, so hey they are screwed, is only going to make one of the participants in that conversation feel better. 

    How much more appreciated, the guys who worked out how to get a fix sorted! 

    I hope that explains, in some way, my earlier reactions, and also gives a useful perspective for the offering of advice. 

    9 minutes ago, Tigerr said:

    In our own way, we are all like those astronauts aren't we. 

    Voyaging out into unknown territory, reliant on technology that we might not fully understand, thrown into situations of unexpected nature. 

    That is of course the charm and delight of boating isn't it. Without the constant element of risk, however small, boating would be truly dull. 

    For me, Canalworld has operated for the many years as a sort of 'operation control'. You can always call back in and get vital advice. I have found it a source of reassurance and useful advice over a long time. 

    But it's always important to know that while many may be offering advice, there are just as many for whom the sweet satisfaction of advice is diluted in the heady mix of 'putting them right'. 

    For the astronaut though, being told they've got the wrong kit, so hey they are screwed, is only going to make one of the participants in that conversation feel better. 

    How much more appreciated, the guys who worked out how to get a fix sorted! 

    I hope that explains, in some way, my earlier reactions, and also gives a useful perspective for the offering of advice. 

    Oh god, I have posted like a total twat haven't I. 

    Look, I am recovering from a GA operation, stuffed full of opiates you'd pay a lot for on the street, so best ignore.

    Regardless i am still trying to sort out my ariel mount. It's just that the brakes appear to have been removed.

    Thanks for advice, apologies for any offence, best I don't post for a bit.  

    • Greenie 1
  7. 1 minute ago, GUMPY said:

    Is your router going to be within the length of the cable from an antenna on the top of a  3 metre pole?

    The loss from extending the cable will negate any gains from raising the antenna🤔

     

    Unless of course you are using cable such as LDF450 😉

    Yes. The cable length is good. The issue is simply the butting of 25mm stainless threaded mount to ali 25mm tube. 

    I am sure they had similar challenges in the Saturn 5 development.

  8. 33 minutes ago, IanD said:

     

    Apology gracefully given and accepted 🙂 

     

    Seriously, I hope you at least have one of the "extra-heavy-duty" mounts like this one, not the cheaper/smaller one I linked to before:

     

    https://shakespeare-ce.com/marine/product/4187-hd-heavy-duty-ratchet-mount/

     

    These are at least designed (see PDF data sheet) to take longer antennas like this one:

     

    https://www.wolfsmarine.com/shakespeare-5399-galaxy-style-9-5-ft-vhf-marine-band-6db/

     

    Similar length to your mast + antenna, but probably lighter (14lbs). However if you're going to put a 4G/5G panel antenna at the top this will have a *much* bigger lateral wind load (much bigger area -- maybe 10x?) than a thin whip antenna, so I hope this is all strong enough... 😉 

    Yes, I understand all that, but in this case the usage is going to be quite controlled.

    By me. 

    The weight loading is very small, I'd say 2 kg, probably less. Possibly you have imagined some sort of huge ariel array in a storm. That's not really ever going to happen

    Its like Nelson advising a boat on the serpentine!

    The pole is extendable, as I mentioned, so it could be 1m, or anything up to, who  cares - not that has any impact on the actual question I asked. 

    I am certain the mount is quite capable of supporting the load for which it is intended. It is a solid steel unit. 

    The issue I am working on, which is what I asked I asked for advice,  is mounting a 25mm tube onto a 25mm threaded mount. I am certain it's a common issue because 25mm aluminium tube is the mainstay of heavy camping equipment, and I am sure my issue is not new. 

    You may, or may not, see why I responded poorly to you initial response as 'unhelpful'. 

    I thank you for your thoughts, and if you have anything to contribute on 25mm swaging I am very grateful. 

    I didn't ask my question to be ensnared in a debate. It was just a question!

     

  9. 4 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

    Ouch!  Not nice.

    2 minutes ago, IanD said:

     

    Given that reply, next time I won't even bother trying to be helpful... 😞 

    Sincere apologies if offence given. Offence was not intended. 

    However I can see my manner was obnoxious.  

    I sincerely appreciate helpful advice. I have found the helpful advice of many people on this forum hugely helpful over the last couple of decades. 

     

     

    • Greenie 2
  10. To Ian, I apologise if my reply was sharp. Don't take offence, yes mostly you are right. I do think I know what I am doing with materials and stresses, The mounting unit is exactly what I require for expected use and conditions for our boat usage. This issue is a specific engineering problem related to tube expansion. I also recognise that the aluminium tube I have (a lovely telescopic adjustable awning pole) may not be malleable. 

  11. 6 minutes ago, IanD said:

    Presumably you've got one of these?

     

    https://marine-electricals.co.uk/product/antenna-deck-mount-n286fe-ac-marine/

     

    These are intended for supporting relatively short (1m or so) light aerials like this, not 3m masts with a WiFi antenna on the end:

     

    https://marine-electricals.co.uk/product/celmar4-3ft-vhf-aerial-acmarine/

    https://marine-electricals.co.uk/product/fame2-4ft-am-fm-antenna-ac-marine/

     

    If you put a 3m pole with an antenna on the top into that mount, I'd be very surprised if it survived very long, especially in any wind. The normal solution is a proper pole mount made for the job, like the ones used for TV aerials on houses -- or one made for the job for a boat, but these are several hundred quid... 😞 

    Thanks for your reply, which is to a different question though.

    I didn't ask about the viability of the approach. 

    Do you have a solution to 25mm aluminium tube enlargement? 

    I can see you have an opinion on another topic, but I didn't ask for that. 

    The bracket is I think, exactly what I want for the job, usage,  and loading  I have in mind. I've been boating for over 20 years now, and have a precise idea of what I want this unit to do. I understand fully the conditions it will be (occasionally) used, and also the aesthetic downsides of the countless ariel 'installations' I have seen bodged up from domestic chimney-side material over many years. 

    If you have a useful contribution on 25mm tube enlargement, I'd really welcome it. Tooth-sucking not so much!

    Anyway, to everyone else, has anyone found a good way to swage 25mm aluminium tube?

     

     

     

    52 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

    I think that you will find an Arial far too heavy to be mounted on a pole. A lightweight racer may be better.

    Or even an aerial,  Or an antennae.

     

    To be helpful, can you get a sleeve that is 25mm internal diameter and use that to join the two?

    MDPE pipe is 25mm OD so a heavy plastic pipe joiner may do it.  Or a brass 28mm compression pipe fitting with a slit sleeve  of 28mm copper pipe inside. 28mm copper is about 25.6mm internal, it will crush in a compression fitting if slit.

    Expanding tube unless it is a ductile metal like copper is tricky without the proper machines.

    Thanks, I am currently looking at the sleeve idea. 

    My plumber friend is a fan of modern epoxy and reckons a suitable 25mm sleeve tube and a good epoxy weld would create a very strong bond. Particularly if the epoxy were flooded down inside the mount stub tube. 

    I'd like to see if I can swage the ali tube, screw it onto the stainless mount, and then drive a covering tube over the joint, lined with epoxy. This would leave a very neat result. 

    But the whole thing depends on swaging out the initial tube to take the thread.

  12. I've invested in an ariel and Huwaei router (mifi) to improve signal. I'd like to get the ariel up as high as possible. I plan to mount it when in use, atop a telescopic 3m ariel pole, to fold down neatly when not in use. I've got one of those stainless yachting ariel mounts, with the nice lever and ratchet. 

    Issue is my telescopic pole, ideal in every other respect, has a 25mm tube, and the male thread stub for the mount is also 25mm. 

    I thought there might be a very simple tool to expand the tube enough to enable a nice tight screw-in. I thought as its basically like tent pole - this might be quite easy to find - but it's proving a rarity. Swaging tools seem to abandon the mission above plumbing copper tube. 

    Ideas? I should say I am not interested in buying a hydraulic swaging device to add to my collection of exotic 'used once' tools in the shed. 

     

  13. Very helpful. 

    Thanks. 

    I must say this forum has been a real bonus to boating since we joined in 2009! There's always someone who's been there before. 

    We didn't have nearly so much internet problem on the old boat, but it had bigger windows, and I think we must have been lucky with where we went, or on reflection I didn't want to watch netflix on the boat. We never had TV on the old boat either - now we have an avtex, and one of those motorhome ariel setups. Cant say there's much on I like though! 

    The new boat has portholes - I think that creates a proper faraday shield. 

  14. I have invested in a Wifionboard setup with an ariel and huwai 535 4g router. I've been told it's a fairly reliable setup.

    This will require a sim card. 

    I have a phone with an EE contract,   and I can send 100Gb a month to another sim. Does that need to be another EE sim? 

    the EE data sim contracts are not the cheapest. 

    If I find a cheaper data sim card, from another supplier, will my Iphone on the EE contract be able to recognise the signal?

    Or am I best advised to bite the bullet and get another EE contract. 

    Apologies if these are technologically illiterate questions! 

  15. I'll say thanks to Vlockies at Foxton for when we we went up back in November, and certainly did at the time. It was raining heavily, cold and a miserable day to be doing that. But they were cheerful, welcoming. They were very helpful, without topping the knob.

    Generally I have found them to be thoroughly good folks.

    can understand though that some of the 'customers' are extremely difficult individuals. Life on the cut attracts people with underlying social adjustment problems.

    I don't quite know what it is about canal boat cruising that brings out the inner expert, intolerant characteristics of people but it certainly seems to affect some people that way, and it's an environment where that tendency can be indulged. 

    Luckily though, it's only some people. 

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