Bro

Some excellent ranting hereabouts. On PC matters, my view is (and I make no apologies) there are far too many people looking to find offence where non is really intended. Such folk generally take themselves too seriously and have a lack of humour ................................... but that's their problem not mine. Getting back to the topic (sorry), has anyone tried Nikwax 'Cotton proof'? It's supposedly has no silicone content, is applied with water and according to the blurb is suitable for canvas.

For a cratch cover made of good canvas (not plastic) would Fabsil 'Gold' be suitable treatment? If not what would you guys recommend? I have read somewhere it is best to avoid silicone products.

A little more information for those who may be interested:- Square D switch used is model 9013FSG2J20. I unscrewed the pressure setting nut 3 full turns which, I am told, reduces the cut out pressure from 40psi to approx. 30psi.

Thank you gentlemen for advice given. Accordingly I bought Square D switch, fitted in place of the faulty pump integral switch, set cut out to approx 30psi and now everything tickety-boo! Cost, ............. change out of £30. New par-max 4 (suggested replacement for no longer available 3) is around the £150 mark, I believe. Result!

Gentlemen, I thank you. I will indeed try to find a super dooper voltmeter and do as you say. 'Twill be interesting to see the result. Silly me, I've been using Smart gauge for say 5 years and simply assumed it was telling the truth (though, to be fair, haven't had any battery problems).

I am now a little wiser. technical isn't it. So tell me, how do I know if my Smartgauge is reading correctly? Bearing in mind I can just about read a voltmeter, what checks can I run?

Thanks Rusty for putting me straight. Clearly there is more to this than a gauge that is misreading. I really ought not take part in conversations about matters I don't understand.

I've enjoyed following this thread, such fun. But I'm a simple soul who knows nowt about electrikery so tell me what the problem really is. If you know a gauge is reading 0.4V high then why not take 0.4V off the reading each time you view it? Provided the error is consistent does it really matter? I had a clock that gained 10 mins each day but was never late for an appointment.

Thanks Rusty.

Would this be the boyo?:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Well-Water-Pump-Parts-Double-pole-Adjustable-Pressure-Control-Switch-/173216249078?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10

Thanks Tony. Square D seem to be rated for A.C. voltage not 12DC. Important do you think?

Great! I'll get searching. Present pump cuts in at 15psi and cuts out at 25psi.

Thanks Tony. Cut out pressure would be same for both (25psi).

Excellent response Jen. Particularly like idea of separate pressure switch as nothing wrong with pump itself. Shall be grateful for any advice on suitable pressure switch.

Present water pump playing up (not cutting out as ought). It's a Par-Max 3 which delivers 3.5gpm and cost of same spec. replacement is about 3 times that of same make pump delivering 2.4gpm. My question is, what pump flow rate do you guys find acceptable, ie. is 2.4gpm generally sufficient to get decent shower flow?

Thanks Brummie. My stove is Bubble corner oil burner. Several makers of Swedish cowls, can you recall who supplied yours?

And specifically, if you will, for diesel stove application. Thanks to all for contributions.

What make of spinner have you?

For diesel stove I'd like to improve the flue/ chimney to give more consistent performance, in particular to reduce down draft. Anyone have experience of Spinning cowls they'd like to share?

A good quality copper cylinder will be cheaper and probably see you out anyway so unless you have good reason why bother with stainless? Better to spend the saved cash on beer!

Thanks Brummie. My chimney is double skinned but for sure it doesn't have KK's draught stabiliser (wish it did). I can find several designs for "Swedish" cowls (some even feature a divergent-convergent cone body). Does the one you use have side slots in the body (same as KK's pic's)? Looks like KK beat me to it!

Cello gets my vote. Cheap to buy, picture quality good enough for me, energy efficient. On downside the sound is poor (easily sorted) and definitely you need 12V stabiliser. Certainly there will be better TV's but value for money is hard to beat, I think.

Thanks Luggsy. And that's for a diesel fuelled stove?

Apologies for raising a topic that has possibly been often covered before but my forum search didn't help too much in relation to diesel fuelled stoves specifically. My Bubble diesel fuelled corner stove is a basic bit of kit with no sophisticated air /fuel mixture control to compensate for short flue or windy conditions. Currently it has typical boat flue/ chimney with a vane type cowl atop and it works reasonably well at high temperature settings but not so well at low settings. Snag is my boat is small and rarely has need of the high temp. settings. The main problem is of course the short flue/ chimney length and that gives problem of maintaining correct air/fuel ratio in anything other than a dead flat wind. There is talk of 'H' type cowl, vedette cowl, Rotor cowl, etc., etc. so many options but which is best suited for my application? Shall be grateful for comments.

Thank you Tony for the reasoned explanation and thanks also to Cuthound for confirming Tony's view on usefulness of exotic contraptions. I'll stick with the old adage and "keep it simple".