Moley

I've already got an accumulator, no-one's suggesting buying one - I removed it from the system because there was a leaking connection and I wanted to see if it was strictly necessary. Also, if I wanted to fit cupboards around the front of the saloon area it was just a nuisance where it was. I then turned the pressure adjuster on the water pump the wrong way, blew a hose off a tap, and filled the cupboard under the sink with water. As I've now found that flooring to be rotten anyway there's no harm done. However, if I'm now going to re-route the water pump to the galley, which will be somewhere midships, and if I can accommodate the accumulator in the bottom of a cupboard, am I right in thinking that the general consensus is that they're a good thing?

I'd rather leave the accumulator out of it, as it's a big chunk of a thing to try to incorporate. In any case, I removed it because there was a leak. If I retain the flexible hose for the main run, lay it above floor, behind a skirting and drain down as Daniel describes, that should give sufficient frost resistance. As that pipe would be below the waterline, would it be susceptible to freezing anyway? - I thought that water temperatures below the very surface seldom went below 4°C.

To Gary: For a graphic designer I make a damned good plumber, and am quite happy soldering copper. To Chris and John: Thanks for that, have now mentally re-routed my plumbing so it doesn't have to cross the boat under the floor. I think I'll retain the flexible piping for the main run from the tank to the galley, move the water pump to the galley (why are some solutions so glaringly obvious that you completely overlook them!), and then go all to copper. And to Steve: I've removed a pressure vessel, should I try to make provision to re-fit it? Finally, back to John: Yes, I tend to agree that stopping the leaks should be a priority.

OK - brief background: Just bought our first boat, 22yrs old, expecting to do major refit. That has proved to be optimistic, for 'major' now read 'total', and I am now stripping back to a bare shell. There has been quite a lot of condensation damage and window leakage over the years so all lining panels are now out. Plumbing has all been heavy-duty flexible pipe with numerous T connections using jubilee clips - these have also leaked so quite a bit of flooring is rotten in toilet / shower / galley areas. Given that I'm now lifting all flooring and replacing some, and also re-plumbing: Is this type of plumbing normal, or is it acceptable to use regular domestic soldered copper plumbing? (Do I have to make provision for draining down in winter?) For the flooring, budget is tight and marine ply is expensive, is OSB a suitable, low-cost option or what should I use? It seems to be accepted practice to lay the floors first (with plumbing etc. below) and then to line the sides down on top of the floor (meaning those services are then inaccessible. Would it make sense to line the walls first and lay the flooring inside them? Any advice or tips would be most welcome, Ade.

You could try www.budgetsignsandgraphics.co.uk They supply all manner of stripes, vinyl lettering etc. and prices seem reasonable.

"Presumabaly if you scratch the surface it will rust again?" Hi Richard, From what I understand it's OK on its own for water tanks and can be overpainted where abrasion is likely. Corect me if I'm wrong though.

Thanks Chris, Have seen quite a few of your postings and you strike me as a highly intelligent bloke who talks a lot of sense, so I appreciate your comments. Ade.

We've just bought our first boat, a 22yr old Calcutt. On removing some of the t&g effect ply, and the blue carpet up the walls, I have found that most of the lining has 'had it' and decided that she needs totally gutting and re-fitting. This is exactly what I expected and I paid a fair price for an old sailaway with a few re-usable fittings. While most of the red oxide primer is still sound, there are quite a few areas of corrosion, mainly around the windows from 20yrs of leakage and condensation, and areas you'd expect like gas and chain lockers. Also, our tap water runs quite brown and, judging from the paint thickness around the bolts and over the inspection hatch, this hasn't been looked at for many years. (And yes, I've seen all the current threads about water tanks). Just a question before I order the stuff. I have seen frequent reference to Vactan rust converter through this forum (Chris Polley is adamant that he's not a shareholder but seems to promote the stuff quite ardently), and wondered if any other members have used it. Basically, is it as good as it sounds? Midland Chandlers stock one called Exit but it's £7.50 for 250ml (which ain't going to go very far) as against nine quid + vat a litre for Vactan from Peco-systems.co.uk Also, could I spray it with a kitchen-cleaner-type trigger-action spray or a hozelock-type pump-up garden spray for those places which are a swine to get at? (Incidentally, from Chris's posts and a few others, it's the first time I've encountered 'to Google' expressed as a verb, but when you examine the various tenses it works perfectly. I like it, and wonder how long before it enters the dictionary). Many thanks, Ade.

Even if you buy a second-hand boat you may not be entitled to the mooring. I guess it's a different matter if it's a private marina, but if the boat's on a BW mooring you should get confirmation in writing that they will allow you to stay, as the mooring agreement relates to the owner and not the boat and, strictly speaking, is non-transferable. I can't go into specifics, but because we were in the right place at the right time, and spoke to the right person, and our boat was exactly the right length, we've been VERY lucky and have now moved to a new mooring within 2 miles of home, in an arrangement mutually convenient for ourselves and BW. Good luck anyway, Ade.

Hi Steve, From the very fact that you're here, you've started off this tongue-in-cheek topic, and there is active, light-hearted communication going on, you are already fitting in. We are also new to the canals, having taken a hire-boat holiday and then immediately bought one of our own. The reason for this was largely because of the fact that the pace of life is slower, everyone has time to stop and talk and, as gaggle rightly says, by having a boat - whether hired or owned - we immediately all have something in common and an instant talking point. Only yesterday while walking to fetch the Sunday papers, it struck me that 'on the bank' everybody is so wrapped up in their own little worlds that nobody can be bothered to talk. You pass someone, even on your own street, and they walk by, head down. Even if you say "good morning," you're lucky if you get a grunt in response. But not on the towpath. "Good morning/afternoon/evening*" (*delete as applicable), "what a lovely/vile* day. Nice boat." Show a genuine interest in another man/woman's boat or their experiences of the waterways and you have an instant friend, who will probably then proceed to tell you their life history / boat's story at length. From my own point of view, if you can continue the conversation over a pint of Old Tossers, so much the better, but it's not obligatory. At the end of the day, if you want to be the life-and-soul or a total hermit, it's your own choice, but if you want to slow down, unwind and just enjoy the craic, we've got a headstart. Mole.

Thanks folks, I don't think I did actually overheat, like I said, everything seemed normal but the guage was twitchy. Pipes seemed OK, didn't even feel pressurised, no leaks, prop clear. Will check or change the 'stat, and having been down to the boat this afternoon and had a look at the wiring in the back of the instrument box and fuse board I'm amazed anything works at all! The guy I bought her from admitted DIY wasn't his strong point, there are wires twisted together and connections made with crocodile clips I don't think I'll be taking her out again until I've worked out what everything is meant to do, but thanks again for some good advice and suggestions, will keep you posted. Ade. PS: OCM ?

Hi folks, Have just bought a 22yr old 45ft Calcutt with a (presumably original) BMC 1.5 and skin tank cooling. She has seemed quite happy pootling around up and down the cut, but yesterday was our first big test for her, a few hours up the Severn from Worcester to Stourport and on to her new moorings in Kidderminster. I had already read this thread, so if anything was being over-cautious, not wanting to push too hard against the flow. Temperature gauge generally seemed quite well fixed around 95, but occasionally got twitchy - not rising steadily but flicking rapidly. Otherwise, engine 'felt' and sounded fine, happier with a few more revs on, and no signs of boiling, so could I have air in the system, or a dodgy temp. gauge, and in any case, should I fit a lower rated thermostat? Thanks, Ade.