jammin1620

I work in the water tank and water systems cleaning and sterilising field. There are potable 2 pack products we use to do tanks. In fact we did a narrowboat a couple of weeks ago. It's not cheap by any means. But it's the same stuff we use on large older steel tanks in business premises to refurbish them. On the point of spores in your plastic tanks. You will get a tainting to it if you over disinfect it. Make sure your levels are spot on. In a 25% sodium hypochlorite solution 500ml is enough to treat 1000litres. You must hold this in a full tank I mean a brimming tank for 1 hour. This is because it takes that time to break down the protective coatings. (Spores if I remember right) in order to kill the bacteria. ) Please also note it is illegal to discharge chlorinated water. Even if its neutralised into the canal. You can use another product which is safe to discharge as it is potable but highly expensive. Note.. You aren't sterilising it... that would only happen if you put it in an autoclave. If I can help give me a shout.

We travelled the w&e down through rushall Sunday without too much issue regards water levels. Wednesday however showing just below 100 on gauge by rushall top lock and hard going round to brownhills. Levels at the grove have dropped a fair bit since last week. Wonder if they've turned off chasewater?

I was with springy up the flight Sunday and concurr the lads were no bother at all. Even the crt guys on rushall that morning said there would be a group of lads but not to be concerned as they're a lovely bunch. And commented that the oiks doing the damage gave them a bad name. It's too easy to judge a book by its cover and tarnish everyone with the same brush. The trip back down was smooth with no damage yesterday morning and levels all ok. Note to others using the flight there was a piece of metal railing the galvanised type sticking out of the bridge before asda. Vicious piece and attached to something below water (probably another piece). We tried to remove it but failed.

So. Some interesting developments. I can't give you the official line until I have it in writing. However. I've had my boat out for its 30yr survey. The examiner happened to be on the technical committee of the bss and went thru the rules the overshadow this issue. As soon a single have the official line I will post on here. But hasten to add that it's good news..

Travelled through rushall on sunday and came across some crt lads. One thing he did say was that they had caught one person for the damage on ryders green.. clearly not the right one or the main perpetrators as they are still at it. Myself and springy will be travelling ryders green first thing tomorrow. Just hope they don't hit again tonight. Or we're in for a the long slog back up to the cannock extension. Hope they catch the Little sods soon. And hats off to crt for dealing with the damage promptly.

Might I pose a question back to the original poster. One other thing the examiner picked up on was low level ventilation and suggested rather than nasty vents in the door look at vents in the front cant which didnt seem unreasonable. Also if your setup is like mine i found it had two gas runs and therefore two gas regulators. More alarmingly I found the two were linked under the tug deck. Thus meaning if one gas line inside the boat failed it would empty both bottles given the lack of nrv. Or one way valve. Both gas runs were hidden behind the woodwork and I found the one side had a coupler half way down behind the sofa which was leaking. I'm working towards getting gas on board and have as such removed the one gas line and secondary regulator. Removed the link between. Replaced the pipe down to the cooker therefore doing away with coupler.

I think maybe I wrote my earlier post poorly or your misunderstanding. There is no way around doing it safely. And no reason to as you point out. My reference to how he gets around it was aimed at his fix and if it allowed him to keep the lockers without altering there makeup too radically from the original design. I also like you abhor gas and have removed an alde heater and gas fridge similarly as the less it's needed the better. Hope this clears my post up.

I'm pleased to see they've lifted the restriction on rushall locks now. Water level is currently stable here at the grove.

I am reading your thread and thinking this is all very familiar. I own a ted spencer tug 'ceres' and yours looks like another?? I last year had to get an unfamiliar examiner to look over the boat and safety it before purchase and he wasn't keen on it. (He was that type to probably take his bss rule book to bed for light reading tho.) However It's never failed in the past (under previous owner) he failed her saying that gas could go back into the cabin through the main doors.. I should point out i have exactly the layout of your gas lockers. And I'm guessing the cants on your tug deck have a 6 inch gap for run off by the cabin. Also allowing gas to flow off.. His thoughts were to weld it up and have a side entrance off the gunnel. I wasn't happy with that idea as it ruins the layout. His other option was to weld tabs on the back of the doors that would seal closest to the main cabin doors. So any gas would be forced down and out. But was still quite adamant about a side vent. I'm still yet to solve this problem and personally when you look.at the lockers they're designed with a camber to the front lip to aid the gas escape. I'd be interested to know what your thoughts or outcomes are..

I refer to my post earlier. Crt. The guys themselves that found the leak said expressly that the water was going into a storm drain whic

Crt have just visited to say that teeces bridge Bloxwich has a breach in the culvert. Dams are being put in over the next few days. No evidence was apparent as the water was going down a storm drain. Also theyre pumping from Bradley and using chasewater to try keep it at current level.

It does seem to make sense. However my understanding was that we don't get a supply from chasewater since they repaired the dodgy valve a few years ago (video on you tube somewhere I believe).

Grove basin on the cannock extension is just over 8inch down. On Sunday after the deluge we were nearly 3inches over so we've lost nearly a foot in the space of a week. Speaking to crt this morning they said they were aware of issues and investigating claiming a possible breach.. So far today the levels seem to have stayed the same. I dId see one boat struggling up the extension earlier but I'd suggest he was pushing more silt than water. Chasewater is also very low I'm told the levels are to the bottom of the slip. Yet only three weeks earlier it was topping the overflow. Curious

Many thanks for your responses. In response to rusty 69. Quite right regarding your temperatures. It is important to point out that legionella will thrive in conditions with rust, and scale. The worst culprit is the shower head and hose leading up to it. That little loop of hose and shower head itself holds water in. This is then cooled and the heated and cooled etc. All this time sat high up in the boat which as we know is the warmest part. And shower heads accumulate scale so legionaires and other pneumoia familied bugs thrive. These bugs are in our water and soil no matter what we do its purely the 'breeding' conditions affecting the occurrence on my opinion. The other cases in our hospitals have been down to showers rather than taps or cooling towers. After talking with a friend of mine on the subject tonight we both came to the conclusion that most would take bottled water as common practice. And or boil water as required.

Some very kind comments. Thankyou. I'm looking to give her a repaint beginning of next year keeping her to the original scheme of course. I'm just in two minds as to the lettering on the rear panel. I'm tempted to keep Mr Barkleys name there as an ode to Tom who I sadly never met but whom I hope would tip his hat to see her all resplendent again.

They did lift me out in the end. Took them a while.. she's now all back in the water rebottomed blacked and a 75mm upstand. Back home and back together. And even a new kitchen installed. I have to say it was a stressful time with the boatyard dragging their heals constantly. However once again the boating community yourself included made me a complete stranger feel welcome and not like a fish out of water. It clarifies for me what a wonderul bunch us boaters are.

I'm interested to get people's thoughts and views on water quality onboard. Obviously liveaboards and constant cruisers water tanks are in virtual constant use so the chance of bacteria build up or nasties for want of a better word is negligible. However those who use their boats once in a blue moon. Do you suffer from flue like symptoms after a shower or eye infections? Has the likes of legionaires disease ever cropped up on boats? In theory it should. Given the amount of water lying in pipes/water heaters/tanks etc. You can get tablets to "chlorinate" your system. And in Spain you can get from the pharmacists a liquid form to pour in (this is not chlorine but is safe to leave in the system without having to neutralise or drain the system down). I do work in this industry so I'm not looking to be informed how to do it or with which chemicals. I'm just interested in if it's something anyone has come across. My suspicions are that it won't be common place. Whereas in the industry it's very common in certain situations/commercial areas. My work has led me to believe that the link to legionaires is down to a couple of things in water systems, water thats not hot enough, Dead legs (unused pipes cut off and capped), tmv's (thermostatic mixing valves), and unused end of system outlets like a bathroom at the end of a corridor used mainly as a store room. Cooling towers on roofs of buildings are the prime culprit and can be linked back to most outbreaks if your interested. Lancashire a few yrs ago and only recently Disney land florida had to close down the water parks because of their towers infecting people. Basically they hadn't had them cleaned and chlorinated recently or enough. Many thanks in advance

I would like to confirm what bargebuidler says here. I recently bought a boat. It had been looked after its whole life and blacked regularly. It looked unloved but the boat in question was a beauty. With some negotiation I managed to get a survey done. It wasnt a written one and was done as a favour but nonetheless the relevant thickness tests were done. Maybe not as many as I would have preferred but you get what you pay for... The readings came back favourable for as 30yr old boat and I noticed the wear edge (chine) was near gone In places so i negotiate a price with the vendor based on findings. She comes home perfectly a trip from Marple to northern bcn. Only when I start having a tidy up and clean up some floor I disturbed a rust patch. Long story short I found canal water weeping through the hull! It subsequently went in for a new base plate and we found another spot where I could see through. (Out of the water I might add!) It was close to the centre of the base plate. Further than I've seen most surveyors venture. With all the will in the world and a fantastic surveyor you will find most things. But you can't check everything. And no surveyor is going to crawl around under the boat covered in canal scronk in a predictably wet dock area and test every inch. So beware and be prepared. Don't take it as read that everything's golden. On the lighter side there is always light at the end of these tunnels as these issues can always be fixed. For a price.....

The data is sent over a bluetooth link which plugs directly into the victron mppt regulator. It's available now on android and iPhone and stores historical data. I'll add a screenshot. It would be nice to see it live over the Web but I'd be getting into geek territory I fear. Historical data

Just a quick reply to seadog. The source I came across happened to be where a family membe worked and when I questioned the general avaliability they said " we regularly have more delivered than we have orders for. In fact we just threw a load away! I suppose it makes sense that for a house installer they need multipless of. THe company said that they are quitr happy to sell to the public it just seemed the public were too scared to come to them as they are a huge importer. They do all quality items through their energy department including 48v battery sets. Sadly no 24v or 12v available. The panels Iwas told were available at the moment are LG250S1K-A3 : LG/MONO-X All Black 250W Module Anti Reflective 1000x1640x35mm x 1 panel JKM-260P : Jinko/POLY 260w PV Module 992x1650x40mmx x 1 panel PM280M02 : BenQ/Green Triplex MONO 280Wp Black Frame 983x1639x40mm x 4 panels LG285S1C-B3 : LG/MONO-X 285W PV Module 1000x1640x35mm x 3 panels LG300N1C-A3 & B3 (305w) If you would like more info then please contact me through my member profile. I'm not sure of the rules here as to whether I can post that kind of info?? Needless to say they are based in Elland, West Yorkshire

I attach a screenshot off the system for perusal. I will return

I attach a screenshot off the system for perusal. I will return with more data

An mppt regulator cares not what panels you have. Whether it is 12v 24v 36v or 48v and it will sense the battery side. It will allow out the maximum at 12v if hats your system. Best practice would be you match your regulator and inverter/ charger. When the solar regulator is charging the inverter/charger will sense this and not kick in unless required. (I use a victron system set like this to great effect)

I write this in the hope that others will see the light! Being a liveaboard I have been on a mission to reduce power usage. I run a 62ft trad boat with led lighting, led 240v, hurricane heater, shurflo 11.6gpm pump, plus shower drain box. Along side the usual I have a couple of tablets, the missus has a laptop and her obligatory hairdryer a d bits. (say no more) I run a victron multiplus 1900w inverter/charger. Victron mppt 75/15 regulator. I now run 2 x LG 305w b3 9a solar panels. Previous to this the solar panels were 2x 200w 5 amp panels The battery system is basic. Just 3x 110ah albions plus a starter. We ran the 200w panels for a year with the inverter charger in he background For a month now I've been monitoring these new panels and I'm stunned by the difference. The new system yield I'd 1.2kwh to 1.6kwh! I physicaly can't store that much! When we had all that rain the other day I was still receiving 5 amp. It sits at the moment around 14.6a thru the day this is limited by the 15a regulator which will soon be replaced. I should point out that the panels are mounted flat on the roof. They aren't aimed at the sun. The panels are house panels. 24v and the latest technology. Which has helped reduce the thickness of cabling required and also reduces current loss overy long distance. The panels you might think would be too big but there is still space to walk down the sides of the roof. With the previous panels I couldn't get away from needing a 240v hookup. With the new panels I have been off grid from day one. Even the good lady can't upset the system... The panels are LG x-mono b3. They allow sun to penetrate between the cells and reflect onto the rear of the cell aswell as the front. This allows an amp increase of up to 9.52a per panel. As opposed to 6 to 8amps. I hope this information helps someone as I and others in our basin have been thoroughly amazed by the changes Something to point out here is that these panels are available in ones and twos. Go to the main importers and ask them for any spares off the months order. They will import a container full at a time but 99% of the time the orders they have will leave a few spare. They're no good to a house install in 1s or 2s but ideal for us boaters. The companes will give you favourable rates in. Half price if not more discount! It makes this option really affordable. Yes you may spend a bit more.on a. Mppt regulator but trust me.. the difference is phenomenal. Dont go for the cheap regulators as the algorithms used aren't clever. I swear by victron. They really do what it says on the tin. If I can be of help or you think I've missed something then let me know and I will endeavour to assist or update.