Bobbybass

Plus...with that number on board you will spend a lot of time at water points.

AstroTurf

I kept the inner original pulley...and Beta provided me a new aluminium double pulley....that was one piece. I had the outer pulley machined off and fixed it to the remaining original pulley which gave me a larger diameter.

Exactly as I posted above. Beta tried welding the nut without success.

It's not just the nut comes lose. The pulley starts to waggle and cuts a shoulder into the crank. The nut then comes loose. Even if you welded the nut ( which Adrian at Beta told me they had tried ) the pulley will still waggle at some point. It then accelerates.

I relocated one of my alternators to the opposite side so the belt tension was even...but it took a huge amount of fettling.

I needed to say thank you for taking the trouble to post this. Thanks everyone for your help. Bob.

Hi... thanks. My engine is a Beta 37 with a screw on fuel filter that I change every 400 hours...every second lot of oil/ filter 200 hour changes. This filter ( in my first photo) is a pre filter before that...and has that water drain screw. The element I show in the photo is totally shot. Rusty and the rubber seal is heavily distorted. It has years of ingrained fine dust that wouldn't shift...even soaking it in paraffin and using a stiff brush...to the point I may cause a hole. There wasn't any water in the bowl...but it was full of years of accumulated crud . I know the bottom of my tank is fairly clean as I have pumped several jars directly from the bottom.and there are only one or two specks in it. Thank you for you advice. Bob.

The housing...which you see in the photo ...has a water drain point on the bottom. It has a wing-type nut on the bottom, which has a cut away shaft to allow water to be drained from the bottom of the filter housing. Is that what you mean ?.

Thank you... It looks like the picture on the right....but any idea which model I want...and which micron option ? Maybe I should replace to whole unit complete with holder....as I'm afraid I will end up spending more on the wrong one. .

As you can see. It's not really going to shape up. Knackered...springs to mind.

My housing says " made in Italy " on top.

Hi Thanks. I took this out today to wash in some parafin. Although the previous owner had paid huge amounts to an engineer for servicing, this hasn't been taken out for years. Also the rubber seal in the top which stops it bypassing is very distorted. There is very fine dust of years embedded in the vanes ..and it would not come out. It needs...a new one

Hi all. I really need to replace my washable fuel pre-filter. Any idea...what I need to order ?.. Thanks all...?

I used my Travelpower to power the battery charger for 6 years. I only had one set of batteries and alternator...and nothing 'cooked' ? I would start the engine..then Travelpower..then battery charger. We used it for the washing machine and also an electric kettle while travelling . I also had solar , so several forms of charging at the same time. Only thing that was a serious problem...not just for myself but also a neighbour ...was the way the Beta engine was set up to power it. My engine had a double pulley on the front...one before the other. My alternator and Travelpower alternator were on the same side and the subsequent force began to destroy the pulley and end of the crankshaft. At first it begins to work slightly loose on the taper, but once it gets underway it accelerates. My neighbour had a 200 hour Beta engine and this happened. Once the pulley starts to wear a shoulder into the crankshaft you're doomed. Beta eventually gave my neighbour a new engine and paid for fitting. Its worth occasionally getting hold of the front end of the double pulley and waggling it. If you feel a slight movement, tighten the centre bolt. An engineer told me that its fairly common and one of the root causes is that the crankshaft taper and pulley taper are slightly different. Whether that is true..I don't know ? Unfortunately my engine wasn't under guarantee. I did come up with a 'fix' but it involved new style of pulley and much machining. When this happened, I was in constant communication with Adrian at Beta. He told me that this was a recurring problem, and that they had tried several fixes, even welding the pulley and nut to the crankshaft, but the forces always won. I 'think' that if you have this type of setup , with double pulley, It would be OK if you checked it for sideways movement. Get hold of it good and tight and wobble it. You can then catch it before it becomes serious. By the way...you need to remove the pullies to tighten the centre bolt....

Mine is Valspar antique grey. Looks great and lasted really well.

Where do you find the dipstick in a Skoda ? Behind the wheel..... I went in a garage and said I wanted a windscreen wiper for a Skoda. The man said...that sounds like a fair deal.

My first car...a Skoda...had 16 valves. 8 in the engine and 8 in the radio. The vibrator suddenly stopping working...can lead to all kinds of distress. Plan ahead !

I rewired mine. Just has on and off switch on a 3amp spur. Excellent...

I figured....that may ultimately be how I do it. Means I will will have two shut off valves...main engine fuel then the Eberspacher off a "T". ... Thanks. ?

So....if I was to tap a "T" connection into the engine feed....that goes immediately into a cut off tap....that would be better and ok ?

Hi all. Just fitted an Eberspacher... I already have a diesel feed from the tank which has a blanking cap...(photo) The fuel pipes you see are the too and from engine and are both 5/16 ( looks thicker as it's closer the camera .) The connection from the tank is reduced to 5/16 Anybody tell me the likely thread size on they blanking cap ? Thank you all. Bob

Thanks all. I abandoned the solder joint and ordered a 5/16 to 1/4 compression adapter. The 1/4 pipe will then attach to certified flexible marine pipe...about 3 inches long to attach to my Eber fuel pump. Thanks again. ?

Mine was £25 off an old BT van...it's a DW4. I rewired it, and so have done away with the Eber control and it just has an on and off...but it 'cycles' as it should. I tested it with a jar of diesel and a tub of water and it works great. I'm fairly familiar with dismantling etc. Thus...it has a lipped 6mm inlet pipe on the fuel pump. I have the correct stamped marine flex pipe to go between the copper and the pump. I've also ...now...ordered a compression 5/16 to 1/4 adapter, so it will not be soldered..thanks for advice. Yes...I have a sealed..welded... stainless steel exhaust...heat proof wrap...and an inlet silencer ?..plus proper hull outlet fitting. Exciting times. Thank you all for your advice. ??? Bob