Bobbybass

Spray can and a stencil for that ' nothing worth nicking on this boat' look.....

The fans are Eberspacher and match the heater. They'll be left on ..low blow..setting all the time as it will only be run to heat for an hour or so in the morning. The radiators are to act as a " heat sink"..to give some consistency.. I had a 60 foot boat last time as opposed to my current 42 footer...used 15mm pipe...and only stripped and rebuilt the Eber once in 6 years..

Yeah..as someone who gave it lots of thought.. I knew people wouldn't think or understand.. Thanks all. Subject closed. Thanks for your input..

Oh boy...I wish people would read posts !!!

Hi all.... Here's a question about running my central heating pipes....so no " off topic".. about Brexit or pump out toilets please ? When I have installed central heating pipes in a house....I run a feed and return and then connect radiators into it with 'T' fittings. That is so that when you turn off a radiator. .the whole lot doesn't block up. Bathroom radiators are locked on all the time. I am fitting an Eber on my boat...into a small calorifier.. then a radiator which I never intend to turn off ..so it will have locked valves...then into 2 heat exchanger fan heaters. Looking at that circuit I see no reason for 'T' connectors..... .just run them (like an electrical circuit) as series.....one to the other...rather than the 'parallel ' system .. like at home. Does this sound feasible.....or is there a reason for not doing this ? Thanks all.

I have a diverter valve on my system. That is NOT a system like yours..... .but I thought if you had a change over valve on the hot outlets of your tanks...you could set it so that when the water temperature coming out of one tank drops.....it switches over to the other tank. Maybe a little Raspberry pie board and a simple program to compare the tank temperatures … and operate the valve to draw water from the hottest one. My system is not like yours. My boat has a large tank with only a single coil from the engine. That meant engine running in marinas.. I already had a small 3 gallon tank in my garage from another project...with single coil and a 1kw immersion. I installed that...so that when the immersion is powered from a land hookup, the diverter draws water from that tank. I Siamese the cold inlets...and the pressure relief outlets...and fed the hot outlets through the diverter. I'm amazed that the little tank heats really hot in 20 minutes and despite running off water for showers etc...the immersion keeps up with it. Not like your system, but you can see where I'm going with my idea above.

I recommend the Craftmaster Canauba... I bought some for my last boat as it had a wonderful paint job....and it was excellent. My current boat paint...is a load of cack….which I like as I no longer have to polish it...(no brass on it either..GREAT !! ) I now use up that Canauba on my 14 year old Mercedes...and it gets many admiring comments. I leave the car in marina for months and when I come back ..its as glossy as when I left it.

Speak for yourself !. I stick my head out of the hatch and it's dry in two minutes!

Going back to my last post. Energy saving bulbs...TV etc... A hair dryer...is a short 'hit'...so not a great power discharge. The main use of this immense battery bank and charging regime seems to be the washing machine ?. Huge amounts of engine running ( maybe half a gallon ? ).. solar ..filling the water tank..and discharging plastic particles into our canals. Is this really worth it ?. This is a general question rather than criticism. PS... I get plenty of run time for fridge...lights...and TV out of two 110 amp batteries..and they don't drop below 12.2 volts.

We had a Travelpower on our last boat...for washing machine..hair dryer etc...plus running the battery charger from it. We still gave up on the washing machine on most occasions...and used a laundry.

I recently bought an old D5W that was from a BT van. I hacked the wiring and fitted a couple of fuses ..one for the switch and one for the heater. Stuck the water inlet and outlet hoses into a bucket and a short length of fuel hose into a jam jar of diesel. It fires up just fine.. doesn't need any pressure on the fuel line. Once the switch is activated..it goes into the correct start up...water pump..air fan...and finally the tick tick fuel pump. Conversely..it does the correct shut down. I'll fit that in the coming months.

I like my diesel.. I like the sound of it..the smell of it...the sheer mechanics of it..and by the time it all goes tits up..I would have given up boating anyway..

I was always told that the electrolyte should only be 1/4 inch above the plates ?. My previous batteries were great and lasted 5 years.

MSC gauges don't like overloading. It usually blows the chip. If I recall ...they use a standard Op-amp.. possibly LM741 ?.. you can buy 5 on eBay for a quid. I fitted a 8 pin holder on the board so I could easily replace. The water gauge suffers the same problem. When on the Thames I used their hose which was a tight fit. The water pressure blew the chip.

My mates who have this on their cars...have all disabled it. As for cats...I cut the end off mine.. stripped it out..and welded it back together. Gained me lots of horsepower and still passed the MOT.

Just spoke to Beta. It should be ONLY ....ATF Dextron 2 or 3. Service interval is up to you..but as it only holds 0.3 litre..it may as well be done every year. Thanks everyone..

Heck...now I'm confused.. Engine oil....ATF...now a Hypoid ??. Plus...I still don't know the change intervals.. The plot thickens.. ( the oil does anyway ?)

That being the case .... With my previous larger PRM gearbox that took engine oil..I changed it at about 500 hours. As this is ATF does that mean less changes ?. After all...you very rarely change ATF fluid on a car...

Hi.. just gave my engine its first service. Was going to pump out the PRM 120 and fill with the same oil as the engine. Removing the gearbox dip stick I found it full of a red fluid..rather like auto gearbox fluid ,?. Is that correct..?. Thanks.

The copper sheet was not expensive.. it was thin..so thin I could cut it with scissors.

I'll dig it out of the garage and look... I'm going to whack it on eBay at some point anyway..