PaulJ

I would ,as you say,lift the PRV so it is higher than the drain point. I think having the 'wrong' side of the PRV permanently wet causes the seat to scale up and leak/fail quicker

I would not put anything on top of the mdf blackrose. If any water ever does get behind and blow the mdf it will push out and ruin whatever you have on top too.

I would not run the engine and close the stopcock. Impellers are only made of rubber and lubricated by the water. They will get hot and disintegrate very quickly without water flowing through. I always warm up engine first and then stop. Turn off stopcock and fill filter /trap or whatever you have with antifreeze, start up engine and pour in more antifreeze while engine running. Turn off engine as soon as run out of antifreeze- can catch fluid coming out with a bucket and bit of string to hold it below the exhaust or outlet if using a dry exhaust..

Envirograf is not cheap but seems to work very well-so far anyway. Stays flexible.Used it to seal all the joints on the stove and also the collar BUT it says to allow (if memory serves me right) three days cure time per couple of mm thickness of silicon bead. So you wouldnt want to put it on too thick unless it was summer..

Thats an eye opener. I always thought the EA were understaffed. Certainly round here I only ever see the same (very helpful to their credit as well) three so the other 11,397 must all be skiving somewhere else :-D

Well at least its an improvement on what we had this time last year! I am well upstream to you but have noticed a difference in the way EA manages the water levels this year. As soon as we have a significant amount of rain the EA seem to be really pushing it through. Several times I have been listing over (in my floating bungalow ) as the river has been lower than it was in summertime- Usually seems to happen at night time and is back up to normal within hours.

If you (presuming valves fitted) shut off the first and possibly second rad would the last rad then work? I am guessing you have already spent ages bleeding the system...

I would have a look at somewhere likes Wickes site at their rads and outputs to get an idea of how many btu's your rads add up to (as I cant think of a radiators makers name / website at the moment). Would have thought you are suffering from poor circulation as my boiler still delivers luke warm water to all rads even when stove is just ticking over. Is the circulation pump close to the boiler or at the end of the pipework?

Onionbargees tank here http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=48784&hl=%2Brivetted+%2Bday+%2Btank Presuming its the same one of course

Think I am saying the same as Innisfree but as long as the take off 'T' for pump is below the shower tray it would work fine. Obviously will fill the shower tray if you (or more probably a guest)forget to switch the pump on- I have done similar several times but take all the drains into a sump with a float switch in which then switches the gulper on and off as needed.

Yes they are as they are V hulled with a chine- so twice the amount of welding but on the bright side half the size steel plates!

Ive never used owatrol as a primer but I always mix it with Toplac-makes it much easier to use and gives you a little more working time.

Toplac is made for painting onto GRP. How well it would stand up to this use I wouldnt know. Unless you have some laying around it would probably be as cheap to buy a new shower tray though..

Er not really used them but scraped plenty of nasty varnished ones of boat walls / floors ..Dont do it :-D

Thanks, not mine though,was done for a customer.Its all Wests Epoxy. The boards are all loose and lift as the engine and generator are underneath them. It takes a long time to make but is very stable and has never warped or split. Not bad for any wood in a damp wooden boat!

Probably not exactly what you had in mind but the method may interest you. Oak strips were laid onto a bed of Wests epoxy ( mixed with black to colour) which is on 18mm ply base. Once semi cured the gaps between the strips were then filled. Flatted off and varnished with two pack International. These boards were made about 6 years ago, live in a wooden boat and still look as good today.

Alot of none potable bitumens are infact potable-its just they are not certificated as is not worth the cost of doing this to the makers. Not thats of any help to the OP. I used International Intertuf on mine (and others)several times with no problems or tainting.Same as I use on the hull so is free (as long as you have some left of course)And I do drink,cook etc from tank too.. As Higgs said- the trick is not to put it on too thick

Hope you suggested they fit a fuse. Would be even worse if a fault caused said wire to burn out..

Am I the only person here who has ever removed layers of old paint/ varnish using a blow torch then ?

Link here to programme on youtube (lifted from original thread) for those without recorders or havent seen it..

Sikaflex or marineflex

You could always hook it up to the back boiler /webasto/engine to save on electric...