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PaulJ

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Everything posted by PaulJ

  1. Marinas are all different. Most as Alan said reqiure you to at least sign in and prove you have insurance. I am personally insured for 5 million but notice alot of other tradesman are only insured to 2 million- none of which have been refused permission to work. BWML used to ask for 3 million but would accept 2 million. Some will want a percentage or may charge you a daily fee for being on site. Some dont charge at all as it annoys the moorers! Any marina with a workshop paying staff, rent, rates etc is unlikely to welcome you if you are stealing their living.
  2. Not quite the size you wanted but this is the stuff Ive come across on ceilings on odd occasions- (has a real wood groove and foil wrap)- http://www.lathamstimber.co.uk/OakNeatmatch.html
  3. There was some sort of known injection issue with the Barrus Shanks. It was the Barrus engineer who told me about it when he was checking a gearbox problem on one for me. Cant remember what it was Im afraid but it would be well worth a phone call to the Technical dept at Barrus who may be able to give you some help/advice.
  4. The temperature knob is next to the wall. Pivot it round to gain access to it-note what its set too and then turn it down to mininum. Hair dryer or heater directly on it will soon tell you if it (and pump) is working without all the excitement of a stove hissing and banging. Or as suggested-take the grey cover off and bridge the two terminals.
  5. Someone used to make one years ago- I cannot remember what it was called or who made it Im afraid.If I remember rightly you controlled the output via a switch. Be right up there with the 12v motor driven inverter (cant remember what that was called either ) .. Not sure if it ever actually worked properly either so maybe best you dont find one
  6. I had expected to see a bloody great tube welded slap bang in the middle of the boat for the mast- but there was nothing at all inside and cant recall any signs of there ever being. The sail seemed to be an 'add on' which was plonked on the roof and secured at each corner ?!
  7. Looked at that one a good few years ago when it first came up for sale. It was up for peanuts then. The bloke who built it was a lecturer at either a uni or boat building college and alot of the work was done there. It isnt really a narrowboat and the interior was more submarine like with alot of small compartments and watertight bulkheads. Drove me mad in the few hours I was on it, kept tripping over everytime I went through a door! Had a Sabb single pot fitted but the big square sail was no longer on it although the deck fixings remained. A very crude arrangement-the man must have been either a complete lunatic or had some serious balls. There was still documents on board to support the crossing and Im in no doubt that it did.
  8. Exactly so- if the glass let air by you would struggle to be able to shut the stove down. I had the misfortune to deliver a boat with a nasty chinese stove once that wasnt air tight- on a windy night you had to smother the coals to control it!
  9. Not sure what you mean by 'the four corner channels ' ? You either have a different door to me or its been modified as mine is exactly like the parts list says it should be. My Coalbrookdale (not AGA) Little Wenlock Mk 2 uses a single piece frame to hold the glass in-available here https://www.rjpryce.com/Products/wenlock-roomheater-spares/RAYHC1175 Think you may possibly have a blocked flue or throat causing your problems. My glass is airtight and is seated on self adhesive glass tape-I know this because if the stove is roaring away and I shut the spinner it puts the stove out (rightly so). I rarely unscrew it more than a single turn out with 3/4 turn out keeping it ticking over of a nighttime.
  10. If you want something different how about something like - http://www.herefordglass.co.uk/back-painted-glass/ Never used it myself but have seen it used and looks superb. Link is to the first stockist with all the relevant information I found on internet.
  11. Guessing here without seeing it. Does your calorifier have a one way valve? This and alot of air in the calorifier will make it act like a massive accumulator tank- this would explain why you are getting what seems to be 'more pressure' in the hot water side and the pump will take forever to pressurise the system. Are you sure you dont have an air leak on the inlet side of the pump as you said you had a leak on the inlet side?
  12. Give Bedford Battery a ring Blackrose- they have a place in Northampton and are helpful and local to you. Chap who works there is brilliant at alternator/starter motor repairs which is always handy if ever needed too.
  13. The pumps work on a pulsed supply-each pulse is a little squirt-I thought they were 12v though. Certainly doesnt sound very hopeful though-I got the last one I changed from Germany/Ebay. It was a lot cheaper..
  14. I picked up a boat from there a few weeks ago and spent several hours hanging about waiting for the crane to turn up. The boat had just had a new bow thruster tube welded in- the old one was badly pitted and had been cut out. Stuart I found to be ,as you said, knowledgeable and very competent. He'd done a bloody good job -I had a good look at both that and other jobs there in progress. Loretta was great and made me very welcome, picked me up from the Train station and made me a cuppa too-so an enjoyable few hours . I dont think you will have to worry about anyone getting awkward though and sure they will have no issues with whichever surveyor you choose. Good luck with it all..
  15. How about something like this- On eBay https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F111110765283 Hmm just spotted you have to pick them up-so if youre not in Yorkshire not alot of help..
  16. I had the same problem once (multi control panel) -repeated wigglings and cleaning of the rj45 plug and rerouting the cable so it wasnt stretched tight solved it. Not saying this will work for you but worth a try..
  17. I am with Royal Sun Alliance which I get through Fowler Penfold. Not cheap but satifies all of the marinas I have worked in.
  18. Yep seems so.Have a look at the dates on the photo of licence -it explains it all. Please dont take this in any way sarky-its the best way I know of showing OP up to date licencing details...
  19. Yes according to website it is either one day or seven day. But when I bought my licence it was for 2 days -which was more money than for a single day although slightly less than 2 single days I think ( I didnt fancy doing it one day much). Same as you I was advised on two days-bought it from Maple Durham lock-there is a chart on the wall in the office with the prices of 1,2,3 and 7 days on it. It may well be terminology but it still says two days on it ,cost me for two days and starts on the same day as I purchased it!
  20. I would change the pipes (why 2 ??) for some decent quality high temperature/ heater hose too as neither of those hoses will last very long should they get a slug of boiling water.
  21. You would never crack or tear the hull at the anode weld point. Well not unless the hull was very thin/rotten anyhow. A weld is always going to conduct more reliably for longer than a nut and bolt .
  22. Now thats what I thought BUT the two day licence I bought started on the day I bought it and ended the next day. I know this as I have it in front of me at the moment. The week one I purchased a couple of weeks before I believe was the same (but I dont have this to hand to prove)
  23. Dont know what time EA gives as you havent said but took me approx 14 hours from Reading to Oxford recently. Wasnt in a particular rush - I think all the cruisers overtook me. But its easily doable on a two day licence -and probably possible on a single day for those that like going flat out dawn to dusk...
  24. Have you tried RJPrice Tonka ? https://www.rjpryce.com/Products/wenlock-roomheater-spares Dont list a back plate but may be able to get one possibly. I have used them several times and find the stove spares to be of better quality than some Ive bought and a better price too!
  25. When I changed mine (which is a boiler model) I stripped the whole stove down as I had been resealing the joints up yearly and the plates were sealing badly. It was all original and its very simple -sort of tongue and groove.Loads of fire cement sealing it with no sign of any fire rope other than in the door.Absolute git to remove back to clean bare metal. Photo shows groove in back boiler and you can just about make out the tongue on the side plate (which is top of pile just behind). The whole thing is held together with 4 studs and nuts ( M6 I think) which fit through the lugs you can see on the side plate.
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