Martin Nicholas

or an LA bank come to that. I'd like to know which is safer: your drop-in LFP pack or the LA pack it just replaced.

Then, to muddy the waters, Tesla go and say: The Tesla definition of 100% remains moot. One definite take-away from this is that the two types of Li cells should be treated differently according to Tesla. The self-appointed Tesla gurus confidently say that this action drives the batteries into the hip region (the charge curve is a hip-knee shape) recalibrating the range estimation. I an not a Tesla guru; neither do I understand anything about boats apparently.

You want a "hot rated" alternator - a 100A alternator will actually deliver 100A indefinitely. Automotive alternators are not hot rated (generally); indeed there is often no datasheet available for your average car alternator and thus are not suitable for a custom installation.

The proper stuff: Contact Grease for Batteries, Heavy Current Terminal. Maybe not for lead terminal posts though, the datasheet doesn't make that clear.

Has someone mentioned that the terminal posts (+ & -) are different sizes? It is possible to coerce the wrong connector onto the right post, but it don't make very good contact then. Buy batteries with L-blade terminals if you can. Since the invention of the o-ring, batteries never seem to leak around the terminals and with modern sealed/low maintenance batteries, any leakage anywhere says they are broken. I did a very crude experiment to test the effectiveness of terminal grease, I got about a 20% improvement in resistance when two terminals were connected and torqued up. I used the Liqui Moly grease - available online. Now - today in fact - I'm assembling a high current system and using the grease on all the joints.

Wrap the terminals of the dead batteries with duct tape before you physically take them out. Weigh them in with your local scrapper, you might get £?? each. Keep the terminal caps of your new ones, they will come in handy one day - see above.

I have two cheap (~£30) induction rings and two microwave ovens, one of which is a combi. Also I use an immersion heater for water. Its thermostat also switches, in the opposite fashion, a socket for a fan heater. I have to be quite careful when cooking on a 16A shoreline. I had a 10A hookup once, requiring extreme care. On my 5kW inverter I can be quite reckless; the sound of the fans spinning up gives a strong hint that I'm using too much and should flip some switches pronto. How much power you use depends very much on your cooking style. Cooking on 16A will not be like cooking on a house, compromises will be needed.

OK

I defer to the good doctor's article for the technicalities. Lowside sensing involves measuring two voltages both of which are very close to ground potential, so you have noise, loop and clamping problems. Especially true with 100A starter motors and inverters sticking huge currents through the "earth". Use signal wires for the sense wires (1A perhaps), they will act as their own fuse. This is like a lot of BMSs operate with the sense wires or the internal PCB track acting as the fuse. If someone (the BSS) insists on a fuse, put one in the monitor's ground connection if you like.

I'd use a high-side shunt, i.e: place it immediately to the left of "Domestic". Assuming of course, the monitoring device supports this - which it should if it's any cop. See: Resistive Current Sensing: Low-Side vs. High-Side Sensing.

GiffGaff will send you an e-mail activity reminder from time to time - all you have to do then is to use a bit of credit. Handy. PAYG rates: https://payg.pythonanywhere.com

That's the Hospital Pound is it not? Cuckoo Wharf is fine too. Tie up where you like. The places IIRC, run from north to south: 1 x long term, water point, 2 x long term, visitors/BW mooring. As long as you don't leave the boat unattended and are prepared to move if asked, it's all good.

Couple of things: These are available from GWL (and elsewhere doubtless): AMETEK Magnetic Latching Contactor 12V 1200A Two other sizes available also. Tesla owners manual now says this: “If your vehicle is equipped with an LFP Battery, Tesla recommends that you keep your charge limit set to 100%, even for daily use, and that you also fully charge to 100% at least once per week.” (Source: InsideEVs) HNY.

Bit of a heads-up regarding buying CALB cells: Watch out for fraudulent lifepo4 200ah new a grade calb cells Seems some are not new - scuffed, swollen, reduced capacity. Let's be careful out there.

ABC have "Dream maker" (521402) - £70k. Not on their website yet. Lying at King's Orchard. Semi-trad.

Is that a red wire connected to the negative? Gotta be wrong if so. Is it just the temperature sensor, so could well be fine. Those terminals need a good clean.

What's the level of duty on this fuel please?

The K&A is fed at that point by the Froxfield Feeder, so water supply is not an issue from there to the Thames.

For me, it's now a caravan show, albeit floating ones.

Also, check the price of a new base engine: http://en.locator.engine.kubota.co.jp/map#Europe. Mostly, the dealers are very helpful. It's unlikely, I'd say, that the Beta bits are broke and for the money spent you get a brand new engine. Give the dealer your serial number, on the block below the injector pump, and they'll quote you. A new head gasket might be £80 shipped. Check the price for your engine. That's a lot of water for a blown gasket, as has been said. My guess would be fresh water from a sinking (cruiser stern?). If you are a badass (like Carol, late of Festival Park) you can test it by tasting. Otherwise take samples of the water/oil and coolant and freeze them. Higher tech solutions - probably.

Rowington Embankment on the GU, perhaps.

You've checked the starter battery right? Seems it's been idle for some years.

Might not be quite your size by the sound of it; but these can be handy on top of a skin tank: 1/2'' BSP Automatic Brass Bottle Air Release Vent Valve for Heater Radiator DN15. Proof read by a human.

The blockage could be anywhere between the bowl and the outside air. This includes the vent pipe which could be blocked or obstructed. I wouldn't recommend stuffing sharp objects down the bowl. There are rubber hoses that are easily pierced. When Barry Wren fitted mine he said: "Use cheap toilet paper".

Probably your best bet is to find and cover the external vent to the tank; cover it with something that can't be sucked in. Then pump out once more; this will cause air to be drawn through the toilet and through the non-return valve, clearing the blockage. Once this has happened, suck some buckets of water through the toilet for good measure. My Tecma has operated faultlessly for 20 years. I obey the instructions.