philjw

So the mechanism was somewhat similar to a GU gate paddle spindle ratchet and the ratchets can still be seen on the HB gear. I wonder why they were replaced.

Does anyone know the original arrangement for holding the paddle in the raised position and why it was necessary to put in place the work around involving the claw and chain that is now on the HB gear? Phil

Shobnal?

I'd better sort mine out then. It has been the same for the last 3 surveys though.

Haven't I read that the deck boards are good enough as the battery box cover on a cruiser / semi trad? Mine (cruiser) doesn't have a separate lid. Phil

This was my question at post #8. Pretty sure like others have said above the batteries have had it and some change of behaviour will be needed to prevent the same thing happening to the replacements.

You are right, it was. Not one I was ever tempted to go in though.

I cant see the pictures for some reason but might the leaking grease be from a split in a nylon pipe going to the stuffing box?

This is the strongest mooring if there are no rings or bollards. You can get special bent hooks that go behind the Armco, often called "Nappy Pins" because of their shape, or you can use chains. If you do end up mooring on pins, angle them so that the top of the pin lays towards the ground i.e. not at 90 degrees to the ground and place the pins outside the length of the boat. This will help to stop the boat swinging backwards and forward when a boat comes by. Best not to tie a center rope off the roof too. Phil

Assuming you are on a canal not a river such as the Thames where the rules are not the same. Note also that you should not moor in long term (private) moorings.

So sounds like the boat usually has a shore line. But does it also have a charger connected when tied up at its home mooring?

Hi Dr Bob, Have you seen any problems with the rinses also using water at 40C? Phil

I don't think the OP has told us if he has a spare set so is able to secure and or move the boat. Is any help needed with these aspects?

Are the brackets which attach the engine to the bearers via the rubber mounts in good order? I have seen welds split on fabricated mountings and the symptoms are as described. Is it a packed stern gland and is this properly adjusted and greased? If loose it would allow extra movement. Phil

Isinglas? http://www.1900s.org.uk/1940s50s-preserving-eggs-isinglass.htm

HETAS is a new one on me but I see that the HETAS web site has a "find an installer" function. Not sure this will get you one that is boat savvy.

What definition of "black water" are we thinking here given that the term is normally used for sewage in boating talk? Are we thinking this given the toilet issues or simply oily water in the bilge? Agree that 45mm of water is a fair bit and whichever definition we use that should not be pumped out into the cut. Given it is still in the bilge it seems there is no working automatic pump

That would have made quite some window

I have used the same on the middle levels and you are right - they are hard to get back. The are also covered in .......mud!

if you were to throw 2 huge weights overboard attached to ropes to your boat...wouldn't they keep your boat from floating away You can do this. The are known as "mud weights". Useful if there is no access to the bank.

Does the belt which turns the alternator which has been removed also turn anything else (e.g. water pump)?

Maybe the age and the fact that it has been fully overplated?

I haven't got round to looking at mine yet. I believe that the control will be driven by a thermocouple that produces a voltage when hot - just as the flame failure devices work - and that is the signal to stop the clicking. Just a guess at this stage but maybe it would be possible to bend the thermocouple into the flame or improve the electrical connection. There are some knowledgeable gas bods on here who can help out.

There are a couple of boats named Taryn and Taryn No 3 on the boat list.

How is the system plumbed up? It could be the case that the heated water has to pass through the first radiator before going on to the second and subsequent radiators and eventually to the boiler . This arrangement is different from the domestic norm where the supply to each rad is teed off from a common supply pipe. I'm thinking that now you have capped off some rads there is no supply getting passed the capped off rads.