pmms

In answer to your questions, yes, none, none. But I thought you might have known that. The little knowledge I have I am (was) happy to share so that other people may build their own knowledge base. I am sorry to have gone so far "off topic". The two points were offered so the OP's friend might avoid the experience of a friend of mine with one of these engines who was right royally kippered by a cowboy "engineer". I hope these forums continue to offer sound advice when it is sought Goodbye Paul M

Try Sillette Sonic on 02083377543 they may have engineers down their way. Starter probs should be straightforward but these lightweight Italian engines have an unusual FI system and they have belt driven camshafts, so try and ascertain when (if?) the belt was last changed. Paul M

Remember, the big advantage of the E series is the lack of electronics or any power feeds required. If you are fitting into an existing rad. system then a circulation pump may be required. Mount the boiler as low as possible and pay attention to the roof collar, most draw problems with these boilers/fires are flue related, lack of height and a sudden cooling of the gasses at the roof collar causing a "cold plug" of denser(?) air at the roof inhibiting draw. Good luck Paul M

one of the major problems with catalytic heaters is the lack of visible flame, if the pad looses its conversion properties then unburnt (converted?) gas falls over the face of the pad and can either be burnt off by the pilot light or leak unnoticed into the bilge. I have seen , just once , a large flued catalytic heater that worked very well, the flue was fan assisted and the heater would not run if the fan failed. It was an American make, whose name escapes me. I have seen (at boat shows no less) CE marked heaters, research showed that the CE marking was for use in sheds and greenhouses, the retailers, chandlers, took the view that it was "buyer beware". PM

Bowers in Longton, Brilliant service, was there Wed. some prestolite alternators as fitted to some Nanni's now not available but they have an alternative option. Paul M

the valve MUST be fitted with a "tools to remove plug,cap or blank". Check 2.8.1 in the current checking procedures. Paul M

In France, I believe the hire boat operators "issue" temporary certificates of competence for the hire period. At least thats the theory!!! Paul M

Update on the pump leak in the OP. End cover plate secured with 4x 8mm bolts, older pumps may be 5/32", ours is 1993. Seal (£1 from our local FI specialist, Dales of Longport, highly recommended) sits in an annular groove in the pump body and comes out easily, be aware that there is a locating roll pin in the pump body, it is tiny and black so if loose it would be easy to miss if it fell out during removal of the end plate. The inlet screen filter cleaned at the same time (thanks Tony B ) all reassembled and appears to be leak free. As with all things related to fuel injection pumps cleanliness is essential, so I thoroughly cleaned the area before removal of the end plate. Hope this may be useful. Paul M

Thanks for that Tony, good point about the strainer, the pump is the original, 19 years old so I'm hoping its not a FAME related issue. I'll keep the forum updated Paul M

Hi has anyone pulled the end plate assembly off a DPA pump? I have a slight fuel weep from the joint between the end plate and the main body, there is an o ring that sits there ( picking one up today £1) but wondered if there were any catches. Last time I stripped a DPA was '74 doing C&G course and frankly cant remember. TIA Paul M

I would have thought it a question for the BMF or maybee the the RYA? Trading standards are the body responsible for enforcing this legislation, some counties TS are on the ball on the RCR and some not at all. I seem to remember Warwickshire being one of the best. I remember (back when I was involved with sailaways) that the Annex 3 was issued by a builder when the boat passed on to the person who intended to complete the build, and detailed the standards to which it had been constructed so far. The annex 15 was issued (along with the owners manual) when the boat was "placed on the market". There was no definition of a "complete" boat. Nor was there a definition of when the 5 yr clock started for home completed non CE marked boats. The annex 3 would be used to support the first years licence issue, after that a BSC (or an annex 15) would be required. There should be an appliance record that went with the BSC , although these often get mislaid, sometimes on purpose!! Paul M

Alan clark at overwater marina Paul M

Not sure if that is on a part of the top that overhangs the backof the stove outside the internal fire space, if so then should be no probs. BUT is that an incipient crack forming in the reducer socket (left of picture)? There is a new (advisory) check coming with the BSS checking procedure review, due to be implemented in 2013, check 8.10.5, "are solid fuel appliances free of unintended gaps" so any cracks should throw up an advisory notice, but not inhibit the issue of a certificate. Once an advisory item has been brought to the attention of the boat owner it is their responsibility to rectify/ignore as they choose. Paul M

Nick, why would you want to put a day tank in the gas locker?? I strongly suggest you read the BSS guide re fuel systems at www.boatsafetyscheme.org/media/164488/bss%20guide%20chap2.pdf you will note that there is no requirement for piping to be rigid. Paul M

Hi Richard, good to see you setting up again, I take it its the old blue haven site? Hope it all goes well. Paul&Jean Morris