Iain_S

Did the circular specify the section of the Act? I've had a very quick look through it, and haven't found a section that applies. Iain

Nowt wrong with aluminium, (apart from the price!! ) and the Sea Otter does have a shallow "V" hull. Our Sea Otter, Gamebird 26', has been out in "envelope edge" conditions, and coped better than a standard narrowboat would have done, and better than a broad beam did, but wasn't as good as the fibreglass members of the fleet. I'd have thought these were mutually exclusive!! Iain

Thus lumping CCers with CMers, and thereby confusing the solution with the problem. Off to get more popcorn.......... Iain

"Boaters With A Home Mooring??? Iain

When topping up the water, was the skin tank bled? (Assuming this is not raw water cooled engine) Iain

Are the rods seperate heating elements? Sometimes, two elements are fitted, one short, to warm the top of the tank quickly, and a longer one to heat the whole tank, but more slowly. If that's the case here, the one without the dodgy connection might still work. Are the copper tubes removable? If so, are you left with a standard immersion heater boss (2 1/4" BSP, IIRC)? In that case, it should be possible to fit a replacement element. Iain

Neither do I! If it does what I think it says it does, 1) There is the basis of a perpetual motion machine by adding water to Aquasolve 2) As the hydroxyl ions combine with the fuel, why does the solution not become acid, due to the hydrogen ions? Iain

BUT,by conservation of momentum, the ice bullet WILL have a lot more velocity than the lead bullet, leading to a vastly increased energy transfer to the bullet, rather than the recoil. Not as much as 12 times, as the force exerted by the propellent will be reduced by the more rapid increase in volume between cartridge and the back of the bullet, if you see what I mean. (Need a faster burn, and longer barrel!) Iain

It's dark in the tunnel, anyway Iain

CCing certainly isn't frowned upon, here or anywhere else . What are frowned upon by some people are "pretend CCers", who don't move much and moor up for months at a time. (I realise I'm wading into the s**t here, so I'll stop before I get above the ankles! ) Iain

I saw this problem fixed once by drilling a small hole through both thermostats to allow the air to bleed. IIRC, thermostats used to come with the hole already drilled, and a giggle pin fitted to stop said hole getting blocked. Iain

The handrail probably works OK on the existing aerial. A bit of wire with one end connected to the aerial base and the other end free would work. About 1.5 metres length should be about right. What does the DAB aerial look like? If it's a loop, it may not need grounded. Iain

As others have said, it would be an idea to measure the current drawn by the yellow wire. On a lot of units, this is the main power supply, with the red wire being used only for making the radio switch off when the vehicle ignition switch is off, and carrying very little current. Iain Edited to add : Another consideration with a grp boat is the antenna, which, if a normal vehicle one, and not a balanced one, will need some sort of ground plane. A length of wire connected to the antenna mounting should do it.

It's solid. The only time it got slack was when we had a flue to roof collar joint that had too little give in it, which eventually resulted in the stove lifting off the hearth due to expansion/contraction of the flue pipe. Iain

So what sort of boots were you picturing? Iain

Basically, they prevent it sliding. The flue does a good job holding it down For the stove to tip, the flue or stove top would have to break. Iain P.S. It has passed the last few BSSs OK like that Iain

On Copperkins, we have a couple of lengths of flat bar, 6mm I think, notched for the stove legs and rawlbolted to the hearth. Iain

If the "32G" is threads per inch, the thread is either 3/16" BSF or No.10 UNF, which is near enough 3/16" (half a thou over, according to my thread tables). The difference between them is the angle the thread is cut at, 60 degrees for UNF and 55 degrees for BSF. (5/32 BSW is also 32 t.p.i., which agrees with your thread gauge. If you look at the gauge with stud engaged, closely (with a magnifying glass if necessary) the difference in thread angle should be obvious) Rather than replacing the studs, can you replace the bracket with a couple of washers to take up the extra stud length? (Or have I picked up the problem wrong? ) Iain

Possibly the cables shorting to the engine block. Temperature gauges certainly go to maximum with a short : not sure about oil oil pressure, though. Some, at least, go to zero with a short. Iain

Agreed. This chart suggests a possible 0.4V between copper and steel. Iain

For our canal society trip boat, the BSS surveyor said he could not accept a gas certificate, unless he witnessed the test being carried out. We fitted a bubble tester! (I have since wondered whether, if he saw me (not gas registered, but not paid either) doing the test, that would be acceptable??? )

Makes it soft again Iain