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Peter & Maureen H

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Everything posted by Peter & Maureen H

  1. Thanks David, looks like I'm out of luck! where did you find the info? I looked on Canalplan but couldn't find it...
  2. It’s a CRT lock, but the council own and operate the swing bridge over it. The ship lock on the other side of the Holiday inn would have the draft suitable for larger vessels, but that’s out of service and unlikely to be repaired. Not very hopeful!
  3. Hi All, can anyone tell me the maximum draft that can transit the bottom lock at the Port?? I’ve called CRT on several numbers and no one seems to know, or even be particularly interested in answering the question. I would like to bring my sailing vessel into the port for the Easter gathering… She has a 5’6” draft.
  4. Hi RovingRom, Thanks for your interest, she is still for sale, unfortunately we put her on brokerage only on Saturday! We have another interested party viewing on Tuesday. She's going on Great Haywood boats sales site. Let me know if you want to view! Best regards, Peter H.
  5. Hi All, We've been happily living on board Miss Heliotrope for the last eight years, but have decided to move to wobbly water, so need a boat with stick and rag. Miss H has a 1946 J3 with diesel thermostart. Starts and runs well. Ideal Liveaboard, exceptionally large kitchen refit some 4 years ago, with full size oven and hob, solid Iroko worktops, craftsman made kitchen units, fridge, freezer, washing machine. Welsh dresser and dining table. Fitted double bed in 'Owners Cabin'. Cast Iron Edwardian duck egg blue roll top bath with shower over. 4 seater settee / double bed. Kabola 'Old Dutch' diesel stove, Webasto diesel boiler feeding 4 radiators and calorifier )with immersion heater.) Sterling inverter/charger meets all power needs. 835AH deep cycle 6x2V traction batteries, 215A alternator, 750W solar with Outback mppt controller. 1996 62ft Colecraft hull, sound, but needs a lick of paint. New BSC from Jan 18. Pics to follow...
  6. Isn't Meehanite a type of cast iron? That seems to me to be an odd material from which to make a small section highly stressed item, although it is in compression and may be quite ductile I suppose. Not that I actually know anything, just asking' ! P.
  7. Only asked because at least one of my head shims is 52 thou, and I've seen them at 46 and 50. I've heard it suggested that they were matched up to get a good alignment across the top of the heads, and /or fine tune the compression ratio or valve / piston clearance, so may well have been different on each engine and each pot of a multiple cylinder engine. Peter
  8. That's a K3 Mike, they go ridiculously slow on tick over, about twice as big and half the speed of what a J series does!
  9. Hi David, I'd be interested in the head shims (gaskets). Have sent you a PM. What thickness are they please?
  10. Gardner 5LW with GMC heavy recovery truck attached £4000 http://www.prestonservices.co.uk/tractors.html
  11. Got a quote recently for plaques like these , about 70 quid for a master and about 18 quid each for 5 inch diameter in brass. If anybody has a plaque to use as a master that would save some dosh. Any interest? https://www.dropbox.com/s/uysz6dlqh6p3223/image.jpeg
  12. One of my ex bosses who used to work on the rubbish boats in Brum told me the council used to empty the rubbish carts into the boat thru these. Is there any truth in this dual purpose usage?
  13. Sat next to the grand piano in Leaf Leamington with a lovely pianist playing Pacalbels Canon! Lunch doesnt much better than this!

  14. Waking up near the end of the Stourbridge arm on the BCN. Hard work yesterday in the rain, 24 locks in 5 miles coming down from Merry Hill. I feel like I've had some exercise this morning! Many thanks to Joe Chatten for his help :-) Off to The Bratch on the Staffs n Worcester today, aiming for Tixall Wide by Sunday or Monday.

  15. Well my crazy dog has been turning her nose up at food all day, i just put some leftover jalapeño mayo on it and she wolfed it down! #likeschilli!

  16. Speaking to a old working boat woman a few weeks ago, she told me they would put the bow against the wall, lash the tiller over to port, and go down in the cabin for breakfast. Just enough time in Blisworth or Braunston for a decent repast and a cuppa!
  17. Well today has been a day tunnels and weed hatches. In 11 miles through central Birmingham we did 4 tunnels, got thoroughly grounded on sunken rowboat in a bridgehole, and lifted the weed hatch at least 6 times. Today's haul includes a brown terry towelling bath robe, dozens of plastic bags of all sizes, some more baler twine, and 2 yards of pink 10mm bungy cord, very effective at stopping the prop, and still in good nick after its ordeal. Got to find a use for that one! Surreal!

  18. Actually I do use the centre line as a temporary mooring on lock landings or in a lock using it as a spring with engine in forward low power tiller lashed over to the bank/lockside. Its long enough to cope with the rise n fall, and i can loose it off and walk the boat out, then strap it to a bollard out of the lock while shutting gates etc. Still refining the technique.
  19. Welcome to King's Norton Junction on the North Stratford Canal! Had to lift the weed hatch for only the second time over most of the GUC, including Leics arm and River Soar to Lugabaruga and Market Harborough (twice), North and south Oxford, and The Ashby. The other time was on the way to Coventry basin, no surprise there! This little haul includes a Santa hat, a lightweight rucksack, some baler twine, a couple of feet of green fencewire and sundry fabric goods that don't bear too close an ex...

  20. Reposted from 'Using a bow spring'. Have started to use a single handed 'reverse parking' technique that involves stopping the boat with the bow pointing about 30° away from the bank about 1/2 to 3/4 of a boats length forward of where I want to be. Engage reverse bringing the stern into the bank, putting the tiller hard over towards the bank to keep the rudder from catching on any obstructions, then slide backwards along the bank to your final position, which brings the bow in as you go. A touch of forward to stop, then step off with centre and stern lines in hand. Touch up the paintwork on the stern. No bollards, rings, hooks or springs required. Seems to work pretty well even with shallow waters, moderate offshore wind, or getting into a tight mooring spot. Not so good if you're headed by wind or current. Once alongside I often use a centreline as a spring with the boat in forward trickleover and the tiller lashed over towards the bank as a temporary mooring on a lock landing or in a wide lock.
  21. Have started to use a single handed 'reverse parking' technique that involves stopping the boat with the bow pointing about 30° away from the bank about 1/2 to 3/4 of a boats length forward of where I want to be. Engage reverse bringing the stern into the bank, putting the tiller hard over towards the bank to keep the rudder from catching on any obstructions, then slide backwards along the bank to your final position, which brings the bow in as you go. A touch of forward to stop, then step off with centre and stern lines in hand. Touch up the paintwork on the stern. No bollards, rings, hooks or springs required. Seems to work pretty well even with shallow waters, moderate offshore wind, or getting into a tight mooring spot. Not so good if headed by wind or current. Once alongside I often use a centreline as a spring with the boat in forward trickleover and the tiller lashed over towards the bank as a temporary mooring on a lock landing or in a wide lock.
  22. I like my boat to be free floating at all times even when moored, so I don't winch the ropes mega tight . Just breast ropes at 90 degrees front and rear with a little slack. These control the sideways movement of bow and stern, and tightish springs to cope with current or arrest the fore and aft surge as boats pass. Two rope fenders is the most I ever seem to need, sometimes only one if moored on a convex bank. Only ever use the centre line if I take it off and set it as a long spring.
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