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casper ghost

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Everything posted by casper ghost

  1. I don't know what you mean about the lift bridge so I guess it wasn't me.
  2. Just realised I hadn't put an update on, so.. The new prop is much better, the engine no longer shakes the boat to pieces when in gear. I have also changed the chain throttle and that now does the revs fine, since doing this I can now get the engine to rev both slower and faster, appears the old system, which I fitted too, limited the revs to only the mid range.. A chap who works on these engines suggested that I swap the throttle spring for a solid bar, or a stiffer spring as that will allow more revs. To test this I removed the rocker cover and, with the engine running, I manually pulled the throttle arm, the engine certainly will rev higher so it's an option if I decide the boat is too slow, though I haven't chugged with the new throttle setup, which allows for higher revs than I had before anyway.. The head gasket is fine, just tightened 2 of the nuts.. Next on the list is to find a way to get the engine up to temperature quicker.. Casp'
  3. I wonder if I could get an old Landy thermostat and housing and somehow fit it into the cooling pipe, but also have a bypass/ shortcut so there is always some circulation. It's probably just that my swim tank is too big, but it's all guess-work..
  4. Wouldn't that give the same result; cold water being pumped into the engine once it's reached temp. The only difference being that some watet is circulating during warm up.
  5. Isn't what I'm considering doing exactly the same as how car engines are cooled, with a thermostat allowing cold water in at a certain point? My pump is an inline 12v pump which are used in cars as an auxiliary pump, it just circulates water through the engine and the swim tank, though it can be diverted from swim tank to the hot water tank. I plumbed the cooling system and don't know what you mean by a bypass. The pump does pump a lot of water, this engine is meant to be cooled through a gravity fed radiator, so my system is currently cooling it too well..
  6. There's a Renault 5 Turbo one that switches on at 78 c and then turns off at 68 c. So would that mean the coolant would average out somewhere between the 2 figures? or do people think the 78 c is too high? Casp'
  7. http://www.ebay.de/itm/Behr-Thermot-tronik-8-121-05-325-Temperaturschalter-Kuhlerlufter-fur-MAN-Merc/121916940572?_trksid=p2045573.c100507.m3226&_trkparms=aid%3D555017%26algo%3DPL.CASSINI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D43785%26meid%3Dddf62758ca8044e7b6367752d97c120f%26pid%3D100507%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26 This one is the right temp, but rather pricey. It doesn't state what model of car it is for, else I could just search for one nearer home..
  8. The outlet hose exits at the highest point so it should get the hottest water. The hose is rubber so I guess I can't put an external one onto it. The outlet connectors are thick cast iron so not sure they will give a fair temp reading either. The ones that just have a probe to gain the temperature; how could I seal those? The digital ones look a bit fancy and cheap, so I wonder how reliable they would be. I like the simple, car type, screw in ones, but I can't find one.
  9. The Ruston manual states the cooling water outlet should be at 71 degrees C and should not exceed a max of 81. The cooling is done using a 12v Bosch car auxiliary pump, which comes on with the ignition. This means the engine takes ages to reach operation temperature. I aim to fit a thermo radiator fan switch into the outlet pipe which will then turn on the pump when the engine reaches temperature, but I've been scouring the net and car ones all seem to be set too high, I know you can get capillary ones that are adjustable, but I can't see how they can be sealed, so ideally I would like a standard threaded type. Anyone know a good source for me? Regards Casp'
  10. I was chatting with a boat painter only yesterday, he raves about the stuff. He says it dries very hard and it's no good putting your brushes in water as they go hard anyway. Rubbing strakes are there to take the knocks so any paint on them tends to get scraped off. Time will tell, I guess, though our family tend to think anything below the water is purely cosmetic anyway and bare steel would last just ad well. I am also in dock putting this stuff on right now... So we shall see, it certainly goes on easily.. casp'
  11. in dry dock now, swapped propeller for one the same diameter but a smaller pitch. Noticed some water on the edge of the head gasket, the previous owner used it as a vintage show engine and he had recently had the head off, hopefully it just needs the nuts torqueing down. Oil is fine and it isn't using water. I do have a new head gasket that I got by chance as a handy spare..
  12. It went better today as some reeds came out the back as I set off.. I'll try the smaller propeller and see how it goes. This vsh is limited to 1000 rpm which makes 7.5hp.. I haven't totally given up on it yet, but I'm not against keeping an eye out for something more suitable to boating..
  13. I set off behind them but I got delayed as my Dad's boat was firmly stuck in its mooring as the water level was low.. I went passed them when they stopped for lunch, then they went passed me when I stopped at Welshampton, where I still am..
  14. Chugged for about 3 hours today.. The boat is really slow, the engine isn't revving much with this big propeller, and my chain throttle link isn't working; the chain is still coming off and then slipping..more work needed to sort it. The silencer I made, which makes the engine sound lovely at low revs, sounds deafening when the engine is working in gear so I think I will swap it for the Fordson Major silencer I had with the previous engine. Fitting a smaller propeller this week so I'll see how it goes with that, but probably won't be faster, just more smooth.. To gain more speed I may end up changing the governor weights so it revs to 1500 rpm, like the marine version did. It's all a bit trial and error, it'll either end up working or I'll end up fitting an HA2 instead...though I quite fancy an FR2...
  15. Finished the engine room floor, did a bit of painting, boxed in all the cables and mess in the back cabin and lagged the exhaust..
  16. I have also bought another Ruston 1VSH off someone, I had been nagging them to sell it me for years and they decided to sell it me only 6 months after I had bought another one. But I still bought it, it'll be handy as a spare or just for the parts, even though it is fully working.. WP_20170302_13_56_53_Pro by ghost.hut1, on Flickr I arrived like this, and the 990 pound engine promptly made a mess of my engine lift, bending the legs, which I had welded on to widen it! WP_20170304_12_08_20_Pro by ghost.hut1, on Flickr The offending parts cut off.. WP_20170304_14_34_40_Pro by ghost.hut1, on Flickr Much stronger steel welded back in.. WP_20170202_12_16_50_Pro by ghost.hut1, on Flickr To give me some chance of moving the engine about in the garage I made a steerable trolley for it, but on the gravel drive it just dug in and we had to push it with the car and use long poles to guide it. To lighten it, I removed one of the 135kg flywheels. Which wasn't too difficult. Just a flat bit of thick steel with two 12mm threads tapped into it and bolts which pulled/pushed the gib key off, then a puller, extended with some more steel bar, pulled the flywheel off easily.. WP_20170309_13_02_22_Pro by ghost.hut1, on Flickr WP_20170313_16_06_11_Pro by ghost.hut1, on Flickr Getting it into the garage seemed to hard, so I put it into the bin shed, the bins will have to live elsewhere... At some point I will make some steel channels the right width to act as a railway track which will enable me to easily pull the engine out over the gravel... This was a little diversion from actually doing any real boat work... Casp'
  17. I haven't logged on here for a while, but there has been some progress, though I haven't been on the boat as much as i'd like. I have bought a spare engine exactly the same, which is now sitting in the shed. It's in good condition and a good runner. Here's a video of the first chug with this little engine. Casp'
  18. I built my boat myself, cost me £8k in total, and that included all the fittings, the yard rent and the crane costs. But, if I couldn't do that I would advise him to borrow more money and put it with his £10k to get a better choice of boats.. Casp'
  19. Several years ago, a prop manufacturer told me the opposite, that an inch of pitch was worth 2 inch of diameter, which is why I swapped my Sabb's prop from a 16x14 to an 18x14, but then, this month, Crowthers said that an inch of pitch was worth an inch of diameter.. This is the problem with props, it's hard to find experts who agree. Casp'
  20. If I was after another engine, and I normally am, I would be going to look at the Lister CD currently on Ebay, they are lovely engines, basically the Lister version of the Ruston I've just fitted into my boat.. Casp' My Dad's 66' boat has an SL2 in it, rated at 11hp at 2000 rpm, ish. Probably the slowest boat about..
  21. And with a bit of paint.. I haven't bothered to grind the welds flush, I don't mind them showing and I've tested them with paraffin so I know they don't leak. I also made a simple bracket to hold the fuel return tank, and I had to move the thread on the air filter as it wouldn't fit on now I've altered the exhaust manifold. I just made a new bottom for the filter housing. Casp'
  22. I cut the bottom from the day tank and gave it a good clean out.. I didn't realise that when I made the tank I only put the take off pipe about half an inch into the tank, I thought I had allowed about 3" for crud.. Then made a new bottom with a lower section and a drain plug. Casp'
  23. My stuff is brown, think it's just the photo makes it look pink. I guess we will all end up using some sort of additive before long. he low drain i'll fit should help..
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