Eeyore

That pipe enters the sump at the wrong angle to be a dip stick tube. A picture of the engine from above would be useful.

Ok, first picture: you have an oil extraction pump lying in the bilge; this is supposed to be attached to the engine. This will no doubt have contributed to the oil in the bilge, as will the remote oil filter (if you don't put something under it to catch the oil when you change it). Second picture: not sure what that pipe and two hole flange does; but it shouldn't be rubbing against anything (engine bearers?). This would suggest the engine has dropped on its mounts; either a failed mount, or if you are lucky just come loose on the adjuster.

Post pictures of the oil spill and the source of the leak before committing to any work being undertaken! The reasons will become apparent as this thread develops. A wild guess at your term "dip stick canal" would be the tube in which the dip stick fits. These are usually of the extended type fitted when the engine is marinised to make it easier to reach. Fitting the engine manufacturers original design into the hole in the crankcase is the easiest way to resolve the issue; it will just be a bit more difficult to reach. No justification whatsoever for lifting the engine if this is the issue.

Looks like a marine version of a two cylinder VRH engine.

Would the reducer be considered as a single strand conductor where it enters the Wago? Unlike a bootlace ferrule where the stranded cable is "inside" the Wago. The pump will most likely need replacing during the life of the boat, so perhaps ring terminals and a pair of these https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-50-connectors/c-116-junction-boxes/p-565-battery-cable-junction-box-two-stud

This is compatible. https://hc-cargo.co.uk/catalog/p/180044--ignition-switch It’s also available as a Durite part. https://www.lsengineers.co.uk/5-position-water-resistant-ignition-switch-with-unique-key-each-0-351-55.html So the Vetus price looks reasonable.

If your solar setup is smart enough to give you all that data, then I suspect its smart enough to be configured for the new batteries. I did skim through your previous posts, but didn't notice if you mentioned which make of solar controller you have. Lots of people on here with knowledge of solar systems, but I'm not one of them 😎

There is mention on RosieR other posts that there is an ABC1230 mains (230 volt ac) powered charger onboard, but no mention of a mains shore supply. The installed solar appears to be functioning ok as is the engine mounted alternator, so also quite curious as to where a dc to dc charger comes into the equation.

There are a few to choose from on this page (and some useful part numbers) https://www.startermotor-alternator-store.co.uk/various-marine-alternators-dd135nproducts1684curpage-2-1684-c.asp Some engines were fitted with insulated return alternators, so check your wiring. The insulated return alternator isn't always required as they often just connected the negative to the mounting bracket!

Couple of generic images for you. The lower plate sits in the hole above the prop, preferably a snug and flush fit.

Do you have an anti cavitation plate attached to the weed hatch? i.e is there a plate flush with the uxter plate above the prop? If so is it still firmly attached to the weed hatch?

I suspect it will become problematic where multiple visits are required.

Effectively turning everyone into a retainer member?

21 hours since the OP joined the forum, and 21 hours since they were last "seen" on the forum. Perhaps we need a software tweak so that we at least know if an OP has read the replies?

Very good advice. NEVER try to remove the seal with any kind of metal tool; you will score the alloy housing, and it will leak despite fitting a new seal. The PRM 150 seal used to be a round section O ring (probably still is), the larger boxes use a square section seal.

Several steel narrowboats (including one I owned) received 6 digit plastic plates in the 10**** series. The story that came with the boat suggested that it was unclear if you were asking for a plastic plate or a plate for a plastic boat.

Extracting heat from the exhaust would be a way forward. An off the shelf solution like the Bowman unit, or a water cooled manifold from a different engine using suitable adaptors to line up with the exhaust ports of your engine. Both will require a pump. https://ej-bowman.com/products/exhaust-gas-heat-exchanger/

4LE1 on page 26 (15 of 16)

Interesting. The 80 amp unit found on some of these engines is a Hitachi which is also used on early Mazda RX (rotary engined) sports cars. I seem to recall that they were either unreliable or became obsolete during the production run of the Barrus engine, so might explain the incorrect label.

The early ones had both charge warning lamps taken from the same feed on the ignition switch; i.e both connected to the start battery. Most received an ignition operated relay to connect the domestic alt lamp to the domestic battery. Some also had an upgrade to twin belts.

Ahh , maybe leave it as a “last resort” check. Left/right port/starboard; sometimes I forget that I served a marine apprenticeship 😏

Follow the red wire, there will be a connector of some sort. Disconnecting reverts the regulator back to standard. If the voltage is then stable the fault is probably the sterling box.

Just curious about the 9 o'clock to 3 o'clock layout. Can you name them left to right ie starting at the 9 o'clock position?

There is another possibility. The first photo shows that the brown ignition feed to the alternator has been rewired using a red cable, most likely due to a fault in the original brown cable. The three cables from the alternator plug are wrapped together in the loom, so the damage to the brown cable may have affected the black/blue strip cable at that time; but not enough to cause its failure straightaway. A photo showing some of the "redundant" cables might be helpful.