Morris

This seems like the best solution, taking the axial load off the gearbox and allowing the engine to jiggle about however it likes without affecting the stern tube & gland. I've only got 11" between the gearbox flange and the stern tube seal though, so no chance of fitting that lot in. I'm seriously considering relocating the engine, but Mrs M says she doesn't want it in the kitchen.

Sorry can't help with a name but I have seen a water can on Instagram which looks to be by the painter of that gorgeous cabin block. At least it gives you an approximate date! There is a can in flowers afloat (p15) in a similar style but no name is given for the painter.

I agree with Mr Vagabond, they look like dead woodlice. You wouldn't generally see them crawling about as they like to find dark damp places to hide. Not sure what they do there. Win at hide and seek maybe. Do you run the tap a bit first before filling the jar?

Not sure if anyone would be interested to see these, but a relative has some pictures and memorabilia from 1978 which I believe was the first year of the Basingstoke canal cruises on the John Pinkerton. The skipper was John Hulbert.

Just went to buy a tester (dial type) , tested it and the pointer was just below the lowest measurement on the scale (12 deg C). I like your idea Phil, but unfortunately we don't have a freezer. (BTW that's a nice dipper in your avatar. Ron hough iinm) Based on this (the reading, not the dipper) would it be best to drain it down?

Our boat is currently out of the water and we are going to be away for most of December. The coolant in the engine/skin tank is of unknown age/antifreeze protection quality and I am somewhat concerned about it freezing whilst we are away. Would it be best to test antifreeze (are testers reliable?) and if it seems OK from that leave as is, or drain down?

Just tested one of mine using your method - wasn't flat. In my head it sounds like 'poy-curt'

101362E & 101363E I think are the Wuppertal Schwebebahn 101596E - NRM York

101353E bus on left showing 'Driffield via Staxton' is a Beverley Bar bus, with curved roof to allow it to fit through Beverley North Bar. 100937E from Import 1 is Beverley North bar (Dont know if you've got these already but 100936,937 and 942 are taken in Beverley too. 941 is Withernsea)

I was just about to buy this but the listing had already ended. It is heading to the UK though, anyone on here? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166411166796 I think I'm right in saying it is by Frank Jones?

Thank you for the link and additional explanation, I appreciate it.

Thanks for the replies, fwiw I wasn't trying to get away with an unsafe installation, I'm actually pretty darn risk averse! I had been reading past threads on the topic and thought that some knowledgeable folks had suggested that something other than option 5 was acceptable, but I probably misunderstood. This is what I was envisaging in this (at present completely hypothetical) situation, my thinking being that the charger would only be used very occasionally (once a week/fortnight) and plugged in for maybe 2-3 hours at a time. I'm interested in this, because it seems to be the opposite of what is written on this page http://www.tb-training.co.uk/MarineE11.html#MAINS Electricity ie, 'without a working earth system the RCD cannot work'.

When setting up a battery charger for occasional use to be powered by shore power on an otherwise 12V only boat what degree of permanence do you feel is advisable/ would you feel comfortable with? 1) shore lead in through window/pigeon box, 16 to 13a socket converter, charger attached to batteries with croc clips. 2)as per 1 but battery charger has 16v plug, is attached to batteries and fused 3) as per 2 but with shore power inlet fixed to outside of boat 4) as per 3 but with gi & hull earth bonding 5) as per 4 but with consumer unit. 6) other

Thanks for posting that documentary Ray, just watched and really enjoyed it.

She looks really nice, I'm looking forward to seeing your progress. If you need any substandard welding doing give me a shout!

Sold by BW in 2010 I believe, one owner since then. I went to see it a couple of weeks ago and was very tempted but thought I would want to do more to it than I have time for at the moment. Shame because I love its unconventional look. Yes I remember seeing it at around 25k because to me at the time it seemed very reasonable at that. Then I looked into wooden boats a bit more a decided I didn't have a clue! I remember it being marked as sold too.

I don't think I've seen Carnaby mentioned on this thread yet? https://narrowboats.apolloduck.co.uk/boat/harland-and-wolff-40-traditional-for-sale/744627

Is it common for shells to be built without knees? Ours has two stringers along the inside but nothing extending vertically from the framing on the baseplate. Would it be beneficial to fit some? (For the purposes of this discussion assume that removing the fit out is not an issue.)

Actually I do remember a music video (I think it was for chasey lane?) where the lead singer held up a card with that phrase on so I thought it might be a reference to them. But I like to make ornithology jokes that invariably fall flat.

Good username op, I am also a sulidae fan but alas have only had opportunity to see the gannet thus far.

Sorry Arthur, I get you were just trying to post a cautionary tale and that you have had to field a lot of 'why didn't you..' and 'I would do this...' posts. I think some of us tend to react harshly when anti cash sentiment is expressed because it feels like a losing battle. I think it's admirable that you sent them payment to put an end to the matter. (Off topic but I just wanted to say, I love your song about the interview for the post of CEO of the CRT. Always makes me laugh!)

I don't really get that, unless you think that their accounting practices are so sloppy as to not notice being over £100 out or it flew away on the wind. Otherwise it had to end up in someone's pocket. Cash is king. It's giving out contact details that causes problems.

I've asked this before but got no answer: Are there particular insurers who say this or is it just a scare story on here? I spoke to a number of different insurers when insuring our boat and they made no such stipulation (I asked specifically) and were only concerned that any remedial action suggested in the survey was completed. (I get in ops case that means overplating but our survey identified some deeper pits than that and no welding work was recommended). To op - overplating 6mm sides because of 1.5mm deep pits seems like madness to me.