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  1. It's mating season. It's a move of dominance, they are trying to be the alpha of you, It's all subconciois. 😂
  2. Thats a nice slim profile, still stick out too much for my ocd though 😅 I find they ruin the look of my boat. I ordered 2 different sets, 100w panels, 1 set was 4cm, sent them back, 1 set was 3cm. Then I decided I wanted to sacrifice efficiently for looks as they were very ugly, and also hard to mount sideways over a curve. One of the other main reasons I didnt mention was because I was worried about leaving the boat moored along the canal toqpath for weeks at a time (leasure mot livevoard) I think flexible silicone stuck solar panels are less obvious to a potential theif and actually harder to get off without damaging them, all you need is an angle grinder and a minute.
  3. Not a great curve, but even mounted flat they are about 8cm, standard frame is 4cm then the mounts
  4. The other main benefit is that they are curved, and sit nicely on my curved roof. And rasing them 1cm with a curve is not noticeable and much better than them raised 10cm at each side with the thikness/mounts/curve.
  5. Thanks for the info, I'm going to take everything apart a fit a new seal as well. I'm confused at what oil to use for the lower leg, in the service kit I got a tube of gear lube 80w-90, Is this the oil to use for the gearbox?
  6. I got some good quality ones from renogy, because they're going on a curved roof and standard would look really ugly and be too high. Not tested yet, but I'm using a 10mm gasket all the way round using sikaflex so there's a gap underneath the panels. If putting onto metal... due to the heat you could stick a gasket with sikaflex to the actual panels, and then install strong magnets inside the edge of the gasket, might kill 2 birds with one stone. (I don't know what I'm using for the gasket yet, some type of flexible but hard plastic/pvc, open to suggestions 😅)
  7. Yeh the motor left in the water, will find out when I check 😶
  8. I was so annoyed I actually forgot to bring a petrol can with fresh petrol to test! So I need to do that also to rule that out, there was little petrol left at the bottom of the tank so could be this. Regardless I have a service kit with impeller ect so will be servicing it anyway, but hopefully its the petrol. When I checked the engine oil, it looked really good! Not very black at all, and the name of the boat was written underneath the engine cover, the rest looked good and clean. I suspect the guy i brought it off had the engine serviced not long before he last used it, and apparently he didnt use it for the last year of having it so I bet it was working well 4 years ago just been sitting not used while in the water.
  9. Got it thanks 🙌🙌 Yes, I only turned it on briefly, smoky at first but went away, I need to drain (or get a new?) The fuel tank and fish petrol, do you recommend any additives?
  10. 😁 If its seized would I have to buy another lower leg? Or could I just replace clean parts potentially? I could just get another outboard if needed but this Honda seems very good as far as the actual engine goes. Started and sounded great after just half a pull after 3 years 😂
  11. Makes sense, I was wondering if I was missing anything. I think I will just pole it to where its getting pulled out (only 50 meters) and investigate/ pull apart the lower engine when it's out of the water
  12. I haven't used an outboard before so hopefully I'm just being stupid... Its an older (pre 2000's) Honda Bf9.9 15hp I tried both to manually and electric start it and it started up immediately, after not being used for 3 years and sounds good. It's been in the water that whole time or longer. I can rev it in neutral using the rev lever ok. But when I switch the lever to gear selection (or use the lever on the motor itself) and move it into forward or reverse it stalls the engine, if I try to do it slowly it crunches the gears. I've read online but I'm just checking here to see if I'm missing something silly, or if it should just work like that? When revving high in neutral it spins the propeller, if I leave it in neutral with the engine off the propeller is very stiff and I can't move it (I assumed it should be free?) I have a service kit but wanted to drive the boat to where its being pulled out the water and do that when it's out the water.
  13. Thanks for the feedback, I'm quite confident it will be ok now
  14. That's what I've got, that primer and actual chlorinated rubber from the same company, wasn't going to get it but glad I did now. There was some thinner that I didny get, donyou think this is essential or not needed? Do you know if I just roughly sand the existing paint and paints this on rather than going back to fiberglass?
  15. Has anyone heard of or had experience with this? I have decided to use as even though its not often the go to... it seems to be a good from what I've read. If you have, would I need to sand all the way back to fiberglass? Or can I paint over the original paint on my 1980 grp cruiser (I don't know what paint it is, just standard paint for this type of boat I suppose) And do I need to sand between coats? (Can you even sand it?) I'm only asking because I've thouraghly searched the net already and there is very little info on it from users. Thanks!
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