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NB Esk

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Everything posted by NB Esk

  1. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  2. I think the steps are included in the push plate, to take account of taller or unladen hopper barges.
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  6. Picked this up just going into a lock on the Ashton, had to haul the boat onto the lock landing and set about it with a hacksaw, working down the hatch, took forever. Next was a duvet cover which didn't stop me, just made a lot of black smoke (heavy flywheel). By the time I made it to a mooring it was well on, had to cut it off in strips.
  7. Never gave a thought to plastic pipes expanding, I'll remember that, thanks.
  8. Thats what I used on " mark 1 " system on my boat. Probably because it's an unpumped gravity system but the feed pipes used to sag dramatically (correctly spaced clips) so out that came. " mark 2 " was re done in copper and works as planned.
  9. If your brother has been more used to domestic systems, tell him to try to use compression fittings instead of soldered joints. A much better way of doing it on boats.
  10. It's on video, follow the link in post 5.
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  12. Hello Annie and welcome to the forum. We've never met but I hope things go well for you and Jim and Elizabeth finds the new home she deserves. Best wishes.......
  13. I'm fortunate to own a book which used to belong to Claude Campling, the builder of HATFIELD. It covers the subject of shipbuilding but I'm sure similar procedures would apply to builders of inland craft. This book was donated by members of the Campling family to be passed to future custodians of HATFIELD. A few images of the section on riveting.....
  14. It's good fun. I shot at Bisley in 1972, came 198th in the British army. The top 100 got a prize, all I got was a sore shoulder due to the 7.62 SLR having a kick like a mule, happy days.....
  15. It looks great.......I've seen greenhouse windows painted white but never a boat?
  16. Are these the ones you were thinking of having welding repairs to? Be interesting to see some photos.
  17. Not rods, those are the dip tubes. It's a view that few people will see, however long they own their boat, as it's behind a welded steel bulkhead. To make it clearer, here's a view of it fixed in place (minus the top plate of course)
  18. This might make clearer why you have probably run out of fuel, the dip tubes will stop short to leave somewhere for the crud and condensation. The reason you can get fuel to still bleed is your body weight might just allow enough fuel to momentarily enter the dip tube. Fuel tank bulkhead before fixing in place.
  19. Have you possibly got both red wires going to your leisure bank, when one should monitor the start batt? Could be my eyes of course.....
  20. The only time I've given a lock gate a fair clout (happily a top gate) was on a boat where the owner was new to boating, new to diy and possibly new to common sense. He had, for some reason, "overhauled " his morse control and would I take the boat out to test it and also take him through his first ever lock. Not a problem I thought (lol) so off we went, tried the morse lever several times and all appeared good. Arrived at the lock and set it, motored into the chamber, thankfully slowly as I was explaining what I was doing, went for astern and all that happened was I picked up speed in forward. Now it's one of those slow motion moments, all I could do was put the lever in neutral and brace for impact. Boat was now still in ahead but at least on tick over, smack!! Stripped the morse control down in the lock chamber, to find he hadn't bent back the legs of the split pins as he didn't want to "waste " them. Managed to find the missing split pin on the deck board and replaced it, properly this time. Wasn't impressed with his mechanical skills but it could have been worse.
  21. You put it in place of a missing split pin?
  22. Used to make toy soldiers from lead, yes children were allowed to do stuff like play with molten lead in those days. The fumes gave me terrible headache.......come to think of it, it's been all downhill since then.
  23. True but unable to use inhibitors in this case as the welded area is raw water. I did "vee " out before welding though, so it has some thickness.
  24. Short update on the heat exchanger, weld dressed to remove excess material, a coat of sealing paint and it looks to have made a useable service spare. Thanks for the interest.
  25. That's the battle when trying to weld cast iron. It's often a fingers crossed moment. When I initially fitted the parts together I had to tack the pieces together to ensure correct mating. These tacks (later ground out) were made cold and I could hear the familiar tinkle as the cast started to pull. As mentioned earlier it had previously been repaired by metal stitching, the only reason for this is no one was willing to try welding it. Some interesting metal stitching videos on YouTube.
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