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WYVERN

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About WYVERN

  • Birthday 25/07/1956

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    West Yorkshire
  • Interests
    Foreign travel, HiFi, photography, Inland Waterways (ex-volunteer lockie)
  • Occupation
    Retired maxillofacial surgeon
  • Boat Name
    WYVERN
  • Boat Location
    EOG mooring Riddlesden on Leeds & Liverpool canal

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  1. ALL SORTED 😃 Looks like it was a dodgy master battery isolation switch and/or poor connections. Fitted new isolated, cleaned all fittings etc and all now working fine. Very glad I didn't take the multiconnector apart
  2. I'm still waiting for the new cutoff switches to arrive (today) so not put it all back together again. Speaking with the engineer at my local boatyard (who installed the engine a few years ago) he reckons it could be something as simple as damp in the control panel after the winter layup—says happens all the time to their hire fleet 🤔 I've taken a hair dryer to the back of the panel (looked dry) and cleaned the spade contacts (no obvious corrosion). I'll defer disassembling the 13 way multiconnector (😱) until I've hooked the batteries back up but have cleaned the 2 pin sub loom connector. The buzzer does work as do all the warning lights so it can't be a component failure. 🤞🤞🤞
  3. Indeed Jen - old electrics and circuit diagrams that don't seem to match reality 🥴
  4. Understood - I probably didn't make myself clear in earlier posts - my bad. I'm not looking to identify this particular connector with a view to sourcing a replacement etc it's just that I was thrown a bit by a suggestion that the male/female terminals within the connector block might be loose i.e not engaged in the plastic holes by spring clips which would have meant being extra extra careful when removing the rubber boot lest i pull them out with dire consequences for realigning correctly but that seems unlikely but we shall see I guess. As I opined in an earlier post I have a wealth of experience (nightmares) with the electrics (harness/wires/modules etc etc) on my 2001 Jag XKR (and others) with a result that I am a fully paid up member of the "if it aint broke don't fix it" club 🥴
  5. Thanks for that—and thanks for everyone's advice—much appreciated. It will be a few days b4 I can get back to the problem but will report back with any findings/progress
  6. Question: Are the cable pairs inside the connector "loose' or do they lock together similar to car Lucas type connectors?
  7. Many thanks for this - makes perfect sense to me - I have similar electrics "stories" and workarounds with my 2001 Jag XKR
  8. Possibly, but it's the thick and tight rubber boot that encloses the multiconnector that is proving very difficult to remove
  9. Thanks - excellent suggestion. I've ordered some Contralube 770 which I saw recommended here to use on the multiconnector. Unless I have a Damascene moment in the engine bay tomorrow I think I will end up taking a scalpel to the outer boot. I have some Aquasure which I can use to get a watertight repair when i put it back.
  10. Absolutely agree. I'll take another look tomorrow but it looks to me like the outer boot should slide off to the right (looking to the stern) but the wires going to the 2 pin sub-loom connector and the connector itself will stop the "tail" of the boot sliding far enough to expose the multiconnector. Stronger fingers than mine methinks 🤔
  11. Thanks for the rapid replies - much appreciated. I had a good look at the rubber boot earlier and unless there is a trick I'm missing (of course there is) my only way of getting it off without risk to the loom wires is to cut it with a Stanley knife and then tape back up when I've taken the multconnector apart.
  12. Apologies if this has been covered but I couldn't find my exact problem in search. I have a Beta 38 with the standard control panel. Up until yesterday not had this issue and all was working normally on start up last week. The issue is no buzzer noise when ignition switch on HEAT (good I hear some say 🤣) and engine battery light not illuminated (all others are lit). There is a faint ticking noise from the control panel. Engine starts and runs fine all red light go out tacho operates and voltmeter shows both alternators charging. When press STOP all lights including the starter battery illuminate and buzzer sounds. Same thing happened again today. Starter and domestic batteries are fully charged. Engine battery alternator was replaced (new) last season. I will replace both battery master cutoff switches as they are old but both pass continuity test. There was some corrosion on one of the pins in the 2 pin sub loom connector block which I've cleaned. I can't access the 13 way loom multiconnector because I can't shift the enclosing rubber boot Any suggestions much appreciated.
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