steamraiser2

Several suggestions as to the probable causes, or causes, of your problem. If I were you I would try the simplest option first and get the injectors pop tested. It only takes a microscopic amount of water to trash an injector. If they prove to be OK everything else will need the heads taken off. Not difficult to do but starting at the easiest/cheapest option makes good sense.

Most likely to be worn valve guides and / or worn rings. The cough sounds like a sticking valve. Heads off I'm afraid

The throttle springs we sell are exactly to the Lister pattern. You don't stretch them to suit. The variable bit is the throttle rod which should be adjusted to take up any slack. If you stretch the spring you have affected its performance.. BWM has the right idea. The boat is wrong not the spring!😀

No. Push the governor rod in to take up any slack. Do not try to push the weights. Make sure the fuel pump has the cold start pawl fitted and that the pump rack is set at the normal running position ie:the start pawl has dropped. The throttle spring will naturally pull the bell crank towards the engine block. At the point when any movement of the spring is going to pull the fuel pump rack adjust the bell crank bolt to give a 3mm (ish) gap. All with the engine stopped of course. When the bolt is adjusted fit the compression spring Run the engine and set the idle by adjusting the tension on the throttle spring. The 3mm gap will enable the governor and fuel pump to float a little which is the object of the exercise.. Easy peasy. Typing this has taken longer than doing the job......!

Just unbolt the whole assembly and dismantle on the bench. It's easy enough. The spring is not strong and it should be possible to set the appropriate adjustment. If you can't I would suspect that the spring is too long. As an after thought you should always have the cold start cam fitted on the end of the fuel pump. All together the two springs and pump cold start cam will enable your engine to idle at a steady speed. It is common for narrowboat owners to try and get their engines to idle too slowly. The idle speed is specification dependent but 400 to 420 is about the mark

There are no springs on the camshaft gear assembly. The small compression spring on the governor push rod is there to damp the bell crank There is an adjuster bolt on the arm which should be set to have a gap of 3mm or so between it and the governor rod. The gap and spring are there to reduce hunting at idle. The critical item is the throttle spring (18) This must be of the correct length and poundage. Near enough does not do. The boats throttle control must include the spring. For example a rod or Morse cable must never be connected directly to the bell crank as it will prevent the proper operation of the governor. With the spring correctly installed the governor will always control the max rpm and greatly reduce the risk of an overspeed induced crankshaft failure to which JPs are prone, especially when worn. The other item to check is the bell crank bearings, which are often neglected. If they are worn out there can be too much float and too much resistance if they seize up. The bell crank should operate without resistance or slop. If it is in poor condition it can also affect the idle and throttle response

The threads are the same, the difference is in the oil way machining on the later shafts. In practice it makes little difference.

Well it seems like both sides forgot that there is a whole world of private deals done through the various eBay type marketplaces. If you are dealing with something small DHL or UPS sort the customs stuff for you........ Eventually.......I had an injector pump stuck in one of their depots for eight weeks until they took the HMRC charges from me and finally delivered it. However it doesn't work for big stuff. Personal imports can't weigh more than 1000kgs which doesn't work if you want to bring back more than one engine at a time! A Dutch friend suggested that the EU will eventually listen to reason and sort the issues out. I then pointed out that they didn't in forty odd years and that's why we left! Hey ho, at least my engines are safely stored for now!

Best of luck with importing it. Business to business is straightforward if you are VAT registered and have an EORI number. If not the pallet firms won't touch it. The Dutch are being particularly anal at the moment with a real jobs worth attitude towards anything coming from private sellers heading for the UK. I currently have two engines bought from private sellers stuck in the Netherlands due to this nonsense. For once there is no issue with HMRC on our side of the channel. It's all EU cussedness. They will have to sit there until COVID travel restrictions ease and I can go and get them. Meanwhile engines bought through business to business transactions continue to arrive albeit at double the pre Brexit transport cost.

It is greased lubrication for the rocker shafts on JPs, all were built with it. Later JKs are oil fed. My junk bin has lots of worn out JP rocker shafts in it from engines that were not greased properly. We always convert JPs to oil feed when we restore them. Way better to have the JK set up.

You have a JP3 which should have grease lubrication to the rocker shafts. You don't and need to fit greasers before you damage the shaft. From the video I would suggest that you check that the changeover valves are not venting through the hole in the valve body which is a sign of the valve not seating properly. Also look to see if there is any bubbling between the head, gasket and block. JPs are a little prone to weeping which is sometimes due to the head not being tightened properly or,if you are unlucky, warped heads or block face. Try pulling the head down first. They are pretty robust engines but the heads can be problematic at times

It maybe worth you trying Bosman Diesel Service De Waterlaat 15, 5571 MZ Bergeijk . They have been very helpful with older parts and service over the years. Our "go to" fuel gear people in the Netherlands

We have had a few new ones mostly ex MOD ones. Some, made as air cleaners, had some fine mesh inside. The empty ones were exhausts. As an air cleaner they are pretty useless. If you have room, fitting a 90 degree elbow and and AC Delco type oil bath filter is both functional and technically accurate being a factory option anyway. Not that oil baths in good order are that easy to find these days either.

This is the correct air filter for a Lister JP. It is quite common to fit them with an oil bath type or a paper filter

As a rule of thumb in vehicle terms 250 hours equates roughly to 5000 miles. So 6000 hours is in the 120000 miles area. If the maintenance has been good nothing much to worry about. If it were a Gardner just about run in. Poor maintenance would suggest walking away.

Actually it is entirely possible that your starter motor should have an eleven tooth pinion on it. It is a common problem which we have seen quite often on Gardners. Like as recently as couple of hours ago as it happens?.

Actually you could get them with Perkins 499s in them. 55 mph flat out but cheap to run. I ran one for years until it rotted out and then marinised the engine for a launch.

Yes it is. Someone has fitted it as it isn't original. If I get round to fitting electric start it will have to go as it's in the way. Nicely done though.

Of course the Lister green thing is a bit of a myth as you could have a variety of colours. Having stripped dozens of them to bare metal I know that, from new, they could be grey, olive drab, light blue, yellow, black and every shade in between. Only yesterday I picked up a 1952 JP2M that has been maroon from new. So paint it whatever colour you like. Red flywheel ? Not unless you want half the forum to hunt you down ?

From your engines hours it has done the road equivalent of over 200000 miles. If it were a hard working truck engine that would be nothing to worry about. In a narrowboat it will have spent most of its life poodling about which is not a good thing. You don't say if there is a particular issue with it but in our experience Gardners are often dirty because they are incorrectly set up, always ignore factory timing marks, set them up with clock gauges, They often have wrongly set injector pumps and have some idiosyncrasies around the injectors. To determine if yours is in need of a birthday there are a few easy checks that can indicate a problem. Such as the oil pressure dropping of rapidly as you switch it off when warm. If it's slow to come back up when restarted you may well have bottom end wear, or pump etc. Oily exhaust is usually rings, grey smoke low compression. The list goes on. The point is if you don't know don't touch. Don't rush for your spanners or your cheque book. A Gardner done properly and serviced correctly should be something your grandchildren may have to give tlc to. We have done quite a few that have gone for sixty years without any real issues

The price differential between the market price of electric start JP2Ms and JP3 as core engines for restoration is the reason. £2500 for a rot free JP2M is around the going rate while we buy in JP3s at £500 or less. The rotten water rail on the one being commented on was not à good sign. I reckon it sold for twice it's worth. As with Gardner's the twins are always worth way more than the three cylinder variants. Market forces.

You were lucky. We have had to go to 60 tons to shift them more than once. Nothing like a bit of salt water corrosion to rot them in!

Firstly, Back in the day the oil of choice for these Perkins types was usually a straight 30 although I doubt that is has any bearing on your problem. To me this is more than likely a gauge issue. I've had similar on a old Dorman where the gauge seemed to have a mind of its own. Personally I would change it for an oil filled gauge which are far better at damping than the old fashioned ones.

Take a look at the Woods of Crediton website. They had P6s and gearboxes ex RN stock for not much money. A transplant may be a cheap option

Marine Power Services. Off the shelf item