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almostafloat

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Posts posted by almostafloat

  1. My son is replacing the huge Perkins in his Springer with a cute little Bukh (D8?). He wants to mount it backwards above the propshaft with a belt drive.

     

    so questions;

     

    Has anyone done this or seen it done, what did they use as a tensioner? What pratfalls exist?

     

    Does anyone know which handed an old perkins 3 pot would be? (the engine is long gone and didn't go anyway) and the Bukh?

     

    Any Bukh manuals around? or means of identifying the model?

     

    He has a Hurth 100-2R gearbox, am I right that it would not be a good idea to run this continuously in reverse? Does the 2 refer to 2:1 reduction?

    perkins anti clockwise at flywheel end

  2. A friend of mine recently acquired an old Yanmar PMX6 or 8 engine that he wants to fit into his boat ..... no, I don't know why, either! :P

     

    Anyway, needless to say, it came without any sort of documentation, and now he is trying to track down a service manual for it. I e-mailed a Yanmar dealer in Nantwich for him, but so far they haven't replied .... probably still laughing!

     

    So the question is ..... does anybody know where I might be able to track down any info for this engine? He is quite prepared to pay, so name your price! :P

    theres a runner for sale in the ad trader listings its advertised as running and its only 50 quid.. it may come with a manual or at least some insider knowledge also think of the spares as they are difficult to get

  3. hello its an ex hotel boat that i went to look at yesterday at bollington after trying to contact the owner after he gave the wrong telephone number and numerous strange emails i thought id go on spec and try to locate it, i did it was listing as the welldeck was full of water and on face value overvalued it was on boatsandoutboards at 20000 but i dont know if it still is, i may well buy a sailaway , ive only just started seriously looking

    its a ford 2ltr powerplus my mistake

  4. Ford Watermota? Thats an interesting choice of engine for a NB?

     

    Correct me if I'm wrong (I often am), wouldn't that be a ford crossflow engine running on petrol? A 'sea tiger' or 'sea wolf'.

     

    A common fitment to Freemans etc.

     

    Edited to say:

    Spooky that... As per the one 'Jimbo' is currently having trouble with

    hello its an ex hotel boat that i went to look at yesterday at bollington after trying to contact the owner after he gave the wrong telephone number and numerous strange emails i thought id go on spec and try to locate it, i did it was listing as the welldeck was full of water and on face value overvalued it was on boatsandoutboards at 20000 but i dont know if it still is, i may well buy a sailaway , ive only just started seriously looking

  5. Thanks, Denis. I can get bolts and threaded rod easily - they make all sorts of Imperial stuff in India these days to meet the demands of vintage car and motorcycle enthusiasts, and this is available at more than a dozen outlets. My difficulty, is finding someone with a lathe who has the time to turn them down so that they have a different diameter at each end. I learned long ago, that you never buy or make one of anything - because the minute you have finished it another one will be needed, so I figured on making half a dozen.

    hello graham i think ive sent you a message direct but i,m not too clever with these things did you get it regards stuart bell 07984785861

  6. Stripped threads are a real pain on old engines. Originally, I blamed myself but I think that in some cases (especially when it is something that hasn't been touched for years and then starts to go) it is just a mixture of vibration fatigue and corrosion.

     

     

     

    I figured that they could be made out of some 5/16 BSF stainless steel bolts or threaded bar. The finished length 1.25 turned down to 0.25 diameter over a distance of 0.750 and this to be threaded 1/4 BSF along 0.625 or just over. All dimensions Imperial inches.

    i have some stainleess 5/16 bolts and the old guy next to me at work is an agricultural engineer with all the gear i,ll try him tommorow are you sure about stainless regards stuart

  7. I looked at Hyraulic drive at one stage. It wasn't cheap. About £2.5K for the complete set up.

     

    I presume the boat your looking at has the hydro motor, reservior tanks, coolers and control gear? If that's the case you might be able to pick up a hydro pump relitively cheap via flea bay.

    it is currently fully operational but has a ford watermota engine fitted so i would have thought modifications to the gearing between engine and pump would suffice my theory being that the hydraulic change from ahead to astern would be relaxed as opposed to conventional controls and would keep the engine use constant which would siut this particular engine.

  8. Re-threading to 5/16 BSF is probably the best way forward - preferably with a step down to 1/4 BSF. Sadly, I do not have access to a lathe on the boat and wonder if there is anyone on the forum who can help by turning some 5/16 BSF bolts down to 1/4" for half their length?

    roughly how long would the stud need to be

  9. I think the 'Furguson' would have been a bit small for your needs.

     

    Your engine kicks out 140 lb ft of torque, which is about 190 Nm in new money.

     

    Running at 1800 rpm max, you will need to reduce the ratio so to achive a lower shaft speed.

     

    Most 'modern' hydraulic gearboxes are rated by the tourque that they transmit. ie:

    PRM 150 is a 150Nm box

    PRM 260 is a 260Nm box

    etc, etc.

     

    You would need a PRM 260 to cope with the output of your engine.

     

    You then need to look at the reduction ratio

    The 260 comes in 2:1 and 3:1 reduction ratios

     

    If you look at this link - PRM 260 - you will see why I think your engine had a prm bolted to it. Look at the shape of the mating face.

     

    It would be really useful if the previous owner could confirm the gearbox, reduction ratio and prop dimensions that they had used.

     

    Presuming it worked well for them, the same setup should be near as damn it for you (in you proposed 60'er)

    sadly i didnot buy it from the previous user but someone who had bought it with other things as a job lot so any history is lost thats why i thought or hoped someone might recognise it as its not something often seen thanks for the gearbox advice i need to refresh on prop speeds and the like as i,m putting the cart before the horse thinking i can runn the motor at low revs without causing oil pressure problems and glazing etc. the boat i.m looing at has hydraulic drive so i presume a gearbox wouldnot be required. would it be a crime using such a set up with an old engine as i like belt and braces things really

     

    I think the 'Furguson' would have been a bit small for your needs.

     

    Your engine kicks out 140 lb ft of torque, which is about 190 Nm in new money.

     

    Running at 1800 rpm max, you will need to reduce the ratio so to achive a lower shaft speed.

     

    Most 'modern' hydraulic gearboxes are rated by the tourque that they transmit. ie:

    PRM 150 is a 150Nm box

    PRM 260 is a 260Nm box

    etc, etc.

     

    You would need a PRM 260 to cope with the output of your engine.

     

    You then need to look at the reduction ratio

    The 260 comes in 2:1 and 3:1 reduction ratios

     

    If you look at this link - PRM 260 - you will see why I think your engine had a prm bolted to it. Look at the shape of the mating face.

     

    It would be really useful if the previous owner could confirm the gearbox, reduction ratio and prop dimensions that they had used.

     

    Presuming it worked well for them, the same setup should be near as damn it for you (in you proposed 60'er)

    did you take the trailer and did you buy anything at daventry

  10. I think I know the one you mean, if so it was not suitable. It's gone to someone I know who has exactly the right engine for it, a little semi-diesel.

     

    Tim

    I really had a single or twin cylinder engine in mind but i couldnt resist the petter when the narrowboat reference was added to the advert, i may find a smaller traditional engine but i,m trying to amass enough cash to cast off for good so i,ll have to steady up on the rash purchases and use one of the engines i have regards stuart

  11. Got it. Thanks Tim

     

    Obviously the auction had ended so it didn't come up in any searches. I do remember see it now.

     

    An interesting project for you Stuart :P

     

    The 'shadow' on the drive plate looks like it had a PRM bolted to it?

    i just missed another gearbox last night but i,m not dialled into those any advice would be nice, the one i missed was 1 to1 and looked fairly agricultural if i was any good id be able to put alink on here but it could be found in completed listings under gearbox and marine i think it sold for 49.99 if any one could have a look and tell me if thats the type of thing i should get i,d be grateful regards stuart

  12.  

    The hole is blind and the stud did not reach to the full depth but the cast iron around the thread has partly deteriorated to the extent that it has the appearance of powdery black carbon. Another option I have considered is to tap it out using a 5/16 cycle thread (BSC) which has the same tpi as 1/4 BSF and then make a special stepped stud to suit - all good fun!

    hello again Graham rethreading is probably the best option i dont quite understand the 5/16 1/4 bit but thats not important ie 26tpi but different pitches. Only thing to look for are "pulls" where the area arount the threaded hole will rise as itis rethreaded and will have risen when the stud pulled out, it may not matter if the gasket is thick enough but it could fail under heavy load and when you least expect it, regards, stuart

  13. nice big old lump that be,

    youve all been busy while i was at whaley bridge and bollington for a whiff of canal today . sorry about the lack of a photo set from me i can do engines but moderate with computers... I keep putting entries in the wrong place. hope everyones enjoyed the weather there were lots of boats and somenice sounding engines out there today, regards stuart

     

    leave the trailer it will only heighten suspicion, and theres sure to be a moment when you can say i wish i,d brought the trailer it always works that way for me. I raised a smile last night when I emerged from the shed in clouds of smoke as the petter bur and st into life to the comment " Wesley Pegden still alive kicking " and " is it supposed to do that" the saga continues..... Enjoy Daventry
  14. The stepped stud Idea is a very good one - especially if I use brass nuts on stainless steel studs - the result will be much stronger and less likely to give trouble.

     

    I am also intrigued by the epoxy resin solution - has anyone had any experience of repairing cast iron with epoxy resins?

    the resin method will only be an option if the hole is blind ie not right through as the resin would escape , however if the hole is blind and you can get the cast clean which is doubtful as cast is porous it would work.

  15. This morning I noticed a coolant leak on a flange that connects the feed from the water pump to number two cylinder jacket. I thought it would be a simple matter of fitting a new gasket, so I stripped it down, cleaned it off, made a new gasket and re-assembled it with some Red Hermetite. Unfortunately, it was then that I realised the real cause of the problem: one of the two 1/4 BSF studs had only just been holding and the vibrations mixed with old age and my action of tightening up the nut just pulled it right out. Stripped threads in cast iron are a real pain - the only real solution is to tap it out to 5/16 BSF and make a new stud and nut to fit! Aaaaagghh!

    could it not be helicoiled to retain the original stud size.

  16. FYI I've just posted this as a new topic under General Boating:-

     

    "I believe that the Moorings Tendering Trial breaches the Sex Discrimination Act because women are less able to make the highest bids for moorings because of their lower incomes.

     

    Competitive tendering favours people on higher incomes, who are more likely to be men, and reduces access to those on lower incomes, who are more likely to be women. Although the tendering process applies to everyone, it disadvantages women, whose lower incomes make them less likely to be the highest bidder in a competitive tendering process. On average, women’s earnings are 71% of men’s and there is an even bigger income gap between retired men and women.

     

    Since 2006 all public authorities have had a duty to consider to the need to promote equality of opportunity between women and men and eliminate unlawful discrimination. BW obviously did not take account of this when introducing the tendering trial.

     

    I have complained to Sally Ash at BW about this and have informed the Equality and Human Rights Commission (3 More London, Riverside Tooley Street, London SE1 2RG). I hope other boaters will do so too!"

     

    Psi

    Well said, this situation is indicative of the general state we find ourselves in where anomalies are all around because we have a plethera of individual beaurocrats in positions where they have to keep " inventing and improving" things that dont need such alterations, to such an extent that we hurtle down blind alleys only to come reversing out even quicker good luck, regards, stuart.

  17. That makes a lot of sense, it's not quite what you said before, though :rolleyes:

     

    Tim

    while the first reply was a simplified statement it was my opinion given the facts then as to the best likely course I was guilty of making assumptions but the odds are that any use would be for three similar pieces in which case my detailed reply would be the way to go, regards, stuart

     

    Back on topic, Timbmet in Oxford deliver nationally and are very helpful if they cant help they will know someone who will, I have ash trees for cutting it would just be a matter of getting it to you , regards, stuart

     

    Timbmet in Oxford deliver nationwide if they cant help they will know who can, I have ash logs for cutting it would just be a matter of getting it to you

     

    I am after 3 lengths of "green" Ash , we need to end up with 3 lengths of 8ft x 3in x 3 in planed

     

    We can use "air seasoned " but not kiln dried

     

    Any ideas where I can source some? if it's in large chunks I do have access to a bench to machine fairly large stuff down and then plane to suit but do not need a whole tree !!!

     

    Chris

    Timbmet in Oxford deliver nationwide if they cant help they will know who can, I have ash logs for cutting but it would just be a matter of getting the planks to you

     

    while the first reply was a simplified statement it was my opinion given the facts then as to the best likely course I was guilty of making assumptions but the odds are that any use would be for three similar pieces in which case my detailed reply would be the way to go, regards, stuart

     

    Back on topic, Timbmet in Oxford deliver nationally and are very helpful if they cant help they will know someone who will, I have ash trees for cutting it would just be a matter of getting it to you , regards, stuart

  18. When I returned from an expedition to North Wales to pick up an Ailsa Craig RFR4, I got the look :rolleyes:

     

    Engine2-06.jpg

     

    When I told her that I was going back to get the other one, I got the other look :D

     

    "Why do you need two?" was the question. "Spares", came the reply.

     

    A few months later and an expedition to Shropshire to pick up the National 3D: :smiley_offtopic:

     

    I couldn't work out what was wrong. I'd sold the AV Hartop, steam engine and various pump bits and other stationary engine odd's & sod's to make room in the garage.

     

    Still...... Bless......

     

     

    Off to the RN open day at Daventry now.......

     

    Shall I take the trailer...... Just in case

    leave the trailer it will only heighten suspicion, and theres sure to be a moment when you can say i wish i,d brought the trailer it always works that way for me. I raised a smile last night when I emerged from the shed in clouds of smoke as the petter bur and st into life to the comment " Wesley Pegden still alive kicking " and " is it supposed to do that" the saga continues..... Enjoy Daventry

  19. your secret illness, if its the same strain as mine is incurable, thankfully my wife just smiles bless her

     

     

    what fun i cant wait got my eye on a 60 foot ex hotel boat with hydraulic drive it will either be a hole in the top or strip the engine for a glance inside before stuffing the bits through a side door

  20. Is that from experience? I'm quite surprised you say that. I've only bent fairly small pieces of ash, which is very free-bending when steamed. I've bent tons (literally) of 2" oak in the past, 3" will take longer to steam and be harder to deal with, but I'd be very surprised if it can't be bent. You will, I suppose, eventually reach a thickness where the outer layers are 'over-steamed' before the core is soft, but is it really only 3"?

     

    Tim

    Hello Tim, yes I speak from experience the only problem i forsee is that with a relatively small batch to be bent, if the finished pieces are to be uniform then the thicker you go in solid the less accurate the finished result will be. the problem being springback as the ash cools and dries over a period of time it will differ piece from piece as to the final curvature. With smaller thicknesses and especially laminations the process is far more controllable failure rates ie collapse are less predictable in thicker pieces and the grain structure should at least be consistant. As springback would not be complete until below 12-15% moisture content is reached if these 3 inch pieces are positioned and subsequently dry out they will have some muscle to move where they so wish. it may not be important in this application but if it is and each piece is to be the same then lamination would be best and ultimately easier and more controllable.

  21. A man after my own heart! :smiley_offtopic:

     

    Get the engine(s) first, then work out what your going to do with it/them :rolleyes:

     

    Don't tell Denis B that there's more than one of me

    your secret illness, if its the same strain as mine is incurable, thankfully my wife just smiles bless her

     

    You will need to build a boat around that engine. You will also have to fit it about a quarter way along its length.

    what fun i cant wait got my eye on a 60 foot ex hotel boat with hydraulic drive it will either be a hole in the top or strip the engine for a glance inside before stuffing the bits through a side door

     

    You will need to build a boat around that engine. You will also have to fit it about a quarter way along its length.

    cant wait ive got my eye on a sixty foot ex hotel boat with hydraulic drive so it will be a hole in the top or bits stuffed thru the side door after a strip for a glance at the internals

     

    what fun cant wait ive got my eye on a sixty footer with hydraulic drive so it will be a hole in the roof or bits suffed through a side door after stripping for a glance at the internals

  22. Any treated timber should suffice as the sprayfoam will reduce the effects of condensation, i would personally retreat any pretreated timber anyway, and i sell the stuff! The sprayfoam is a specialist job and they wont cover anything like wires or other services so it must be bare ,just incase you start installing stuff.

  23. I've not had any first hand experience of the B4.

     

    48hp @ 1800 rpm. More than adequate for a large NB.

     

    It'll make your eyes water when you lift it! About 3/4 tonne.

     

    I'm sure more info will be forthcoming

    It was a work of art getting it in my tranny with only a lightweight winch a couple of scaffold boards and one piece of scaffold bar to roll it on looks the part though i,ll be firing it up today when ive rigged up some water , thanks for interest regards stuart

     

    Never come across one before. Interesting machine, obviously started life as a stationary engine. The approach to fitting marine gearbox & starter motor is novel.

     

    Tim

    Me neither thats why I bought it , i have a collection of old diesels but i think this is the one for my boat, although it may have to come to pieces to get it in {my excuse to have a look inside} , thanks for reply, regards stuart.

  24. Just bought the petter b4 from ebay does anyone recognise this engine, I,ll try and post a photo tomorrow. It apparently came out of a 70 footer in the gloucester area. Overall seems in great condition any help would be appreciated, regards, stuart

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