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Mike Jordan

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Everything posted by Mike Jordan

  1. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  2. Am I right in thinking that Alde formerly sold finned pipe with a copper pipe through the middle? I wouldn't dispute the corrosion claims but I feel sure that I have used the copper type in the past.
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  4. There is always some risk of uneven support distorting the hull when a boat is taken out of the water, whether using a dry dock where the bostocks may not be level or the boat may have a slight curve, or using a trailer. By far the easiest way to damage it is to lift without a spreader frame, some crane operators will say "don't worry mate we will use a long set of lifting chains or cables" this no doubt reduces the squeeze to some extent but it's a stupid idea to lift anyone's pride and joy this way. In my experience the only real motive is to save the operator the job of rigging the spreaders or lifting frame, a job that takes about 15 minutes.
  5. Mike Jordan

    Eels

    While walking back to the boat one night on the staffs and Worcester we stopped to talk to a fisherman who had a net full of them, my wife was unimpressed by the idea of any sort of fish with teeth like that.
  6. I had a similar problem with a 1.8 a few years back, it took some time to find the cause of the problem but it turned out that I had caused it myself. I had previously taken the head off and lapped in the valves, on reassembly I had put valve stem seals on both inlet and exhaust valve stems (they were included in a set of pattern parts which included the head gasket and all other parts for the job) the engine didn't originally have seals on the exhaust valve stems. It turned out that the heat of the exhaust valves had welded the rubber seals to the stems after a few hours of use, this turned them into superb little pumps which went up and down with the valves, forcing a small amount of oil down the stem with each stroke. I managed to shine a torch through the valve spring to spot the problem and then found that it's possible to put the Pistons on TDC and remove the valve collets using an ad hoc compressor without removing the head again! It was not difficult to do but I needed a third hand when replacing the collets. I considered myself fortunate that the oil oozing through a joint in the exhaust system and contaminating the obligatory lagging hadn't started a fire. It may be that this is not the cause of your problems but it must be worth a look! Mike.
  7. If you use a crane company, It's vitally important to ensure that they are equipped with proper spreaders to prevent the excessive squeeze on the boats sides. It doesn't always cause damage but some idiots are happy to take the risk.
  8. What type would you like? I make all sorts. Mike. A quick look at my gallery should help.
  9. If referring to the front of the average narrow boat, the distance from floor level to front deck is normally about 600mm. Many boaters, including me, have used a box or step stool with a height of 300mm to form two quite large steps. All well and good for the young and fit but not very comfortable when clutching your bus pass! I recently made as set of steps to replace the box on a boat used as a liveaboard, I made the rise 200mm for each of the two steps which left a further 200mm step onto the front deck. Overnight it seemed the boater concerned showed the result to his neighbours, they had had a test flight and found that life was much easier using the smaller rise, so the following week I made two more sets. The treads of the steps lift up to allow the space to be used for storage very like the boxes and stools formerly did. I think the design is in my photo gallery. The rear access is a lot higher in most boats and I normally use a raking ladder type set of steps similar to those shown above, in this instance I normally make the maximum rise 200mm per step in line with domestic practice. The angle of the rear steps is a compromise between ease of use and space consumed ( I do n't like the idea of going down backwards but it's safer with a steep set) it's possible to make a set of steps with storage beneath like the ones at the front but they take up space and need to be thought through at the design stage or they make for difficult access the cupboards etc an either side. It is possible to fit a raking ladder with hinges at the top so that it can be lifted for access, I don't like it but have seen it done.
  10. Is there any evidence of oil in the exhaust system?
  11. Hi Alan I suggest you have a look at my gallery of photos, there are all sorts of roof hatches on there. I've given up making the very large hatches for Dutch barges since I can't lift them any longer! The glazing shown is flush with the top face of the hatch and double glazed with 4mm toughened / 6mm spacer / 6.4mm laminated. Tha bars shown are hinged at the top to allow cleaning of the glass and bars. The brass bars look great when polished but stainless is much less work to maintain. Iroko is the most durable timber to use unless you win the lottery and can consider using Teak. Plans are available for all the ones shown.
  12. The bag of chips looks like the most likely to succeed. You can then be a continuous chip eater.
  13. I've only ever built one timber topped boat, it was constructed with 22mm match boarding over timber frames, covered with roofing felt and finally Masonite hardboard. It proved very difficult to keep in good order and I wouldn't have another at any price. One aspect that hasn't been mentioned is the risk of severely damaging the top with one touch against anything solid like a bridge. Many glass fibre topped boats used to be fitted with curved steel bridge guards to reduce this risk.
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  16. The only method that springs to mind is filling the gaps with a two part epoxy filler before painting over the affected area. I wouldn't think that the gaps have been caused by the MDF shrinking but by the expansion of the steel shell. Are the surrounds made as two U shaped pieces joined in the middle?
  17. As already stated its very good for some jobs, templates and patterns for use when machining shaped items for instance. With a real wood veneer on both faces its good for making panels for doors etc providing that it's housed into the solid frame and the edges are not visible. Builders of cheap and nasty boats tend to use it with the veneered faces but no surrounding solid frame and with the edges of the sheets machined with a moulding in an attempt to get an acceptable finish. The results are very poor, the difference in costs between this and a proper job are minimal if you are doing the work yourself. Beware of the boat builder with a CNC sheet cutting machine, they work at their best with MDF but the resulting boat will always be second rate in my opinion.
  18. The best timber for this type of use is Iroko. An African hardwood which is readily available from local merchants and has been a popular boat building material for years. It has an oily nature which means it must be glued with and epoxy system for best results. I have some garden furniture made fron it which has been on my soggy lawn for twenty years without any sign of rot, even left without treatment it will show small surface cracks but no deterioration!. Only Teak has a higher reputation (at about 5 times the cost) it looks good under a coat of exterior varnish but you need to allow longer drying time since the oil content affects the varnish.
  19. I would agree that elm is a non starter on stability grounds. Trackman, I think you may be confusing Iroko with oak which is very acid and can corrode steel fittings particularly in damp conditions. I have used large quantities of Iroko down the years without any evidence of its attacking metal fixings. The oil content of Iroko tends to slow down the drying of conventional varnishes and joints must be made with suitable glue, preferably a resin two part system rather than normal joinery adhesives.
  20. As suggested Iroko is very durable! Left without treatment it will last at least twenty years. I have some garden furniture which has been standing on my soggy lawn for slightly more than that length of time now, still with no sign of rot. I recently had a price for some teak. It came in at £260 per cubic foot, compared with about £55 per cubic foot for Iroko which is every bit as good in terms of durability. Iroko is sometimes light brown with a tendency to yellow, this is soon altered to darker brown with exposure to light. It sometimes comes as a shock to the customer who is faced with a banana coloured cratch board.
  21. As you say it would be normal (in my opinion) to arrange to build on a keel plate that is long enough to allow you to burn round the completed swim plates and lift up the remaining section of keel plate to form the uxter plate. It's nice and economical since it's already nearly the right shape and it is certainly better made in 10mm plate. With regard to your existing weed hatch, I think it would be better to get a new one made slightly larger than the existing thin job. When the boat is docked to would be easy to burn round the outer edge of the rusty hatch and then weld the new one on to the uxter both inside and out of the bottom edge. A 6 or 8mm thick hatch would solve the problem long term without the trouble, expense, and repaired look, you would get with over plating. The job begs to be be done properly! As to why anyone would make a thin hatch in the first place, it may be that the yards equipment wasn't up to folding anything thicker. I can't see any real saving having been made on either the hatch or uxter plate? Best of luck with the project. Mike.
  22. Speaking as a chap who has made scores of the boards, I have noted that boaters use them for various purposes, additional room, good place to leave wet clothing or washing, soggy dogs, and muddy boots. They help to keep the boat interior clean and dry and protect those swish hardwood front doors from the weather. Equipped with seating and a folding table you can have an outdoor dining area or just a store room for all manner of things. I prefer to see them fitted in away that allows both the cover and board to be easily removed if you want when cruising. This means using a couple of plugs and sockets for the wiring to disconnect the lamp and horn. One advantage that hasn't been mentioned is the prevention of flooding the front deck and getting water in the boat when some "helper" throws up a gate paddle early and tries to send you to the bottom.
  23. It's a good idea to fit the window surrounds and door frames first after cutting a rebate round the outer edges to take the ply lining, this will mean that the cover strips used to conceal the joint between the ply and frames can be flat on the back face rather than a hockey stick shape. The fit between the two is also less critical since it's covered. I always use 9mm on the top sides and 12 mm below, internal furniture can then be fixed directly to the lining, only really heavy items will need screwing through into the bearers. If that isn't clear please post again and I will try and post a sketch. One method of cutting out the windows is to to cut out a smaller hole in the centre of the window area and then measure outwards to the frame with the ply held in place temporarily. Mike.
  24. The hospital silencer is a waste of money since it only reduces the exhaust sound not the diesel clatter which is what you can really hear. Engine noise can be absorbed or contained in the engine space, the exhaust note is not an issue.
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