Phoenix_V

To be honest it takes me a good hour slightly less if someone is there to assist, but I dont do it very often, if I was constructing it again I would try and make the front to back beam lighter maybe aluminium and use perspex in the side windows which is lighter than glass. It would also be nice to design the framing so that the front and back windows could be lowered without the rest of the wheelhouse. If you want quick teardown (which on the Stort you probably do) I think a pram hood is the only option but they do look ugly imho, there are one or two threads on here about them including one widebeam.

In case it is of interest the basic design of our wheelhouse as follows ; The heavy front and back windows hinge forward and are supported by struts, once up a beam is attached each side front to back, 4 curved beams are then place into slots on this beam going from side to side essentially to stop the canvas roof sagging. The side windows are on lift of hinges so they can be removed, it would be nicer if they could just hinge down but the cabin gets in the way. When replacing them they are held at an angle, slotted into the hinges and then raised to verical and clipped to the fore aft beams and each other with protex clips. Once all windows are in place the canvas is rolled over the roof structure and secured all along the edges with turnbuttons (see picture) but requires sewing I have attached some pictures. Note that we put a couple of straps over the roof in winter as our mooring is very exposed, I d not think these are really necessary, the wheelhouse feels quite solid once all clipped together it is just belt and braces. The canvas cover can be made from tent material which is very lightweight but we used lorry type vinyl using a hot air blower to weld hems all round and a clever little punch from J Clarke Marine to make the holes for the trunbuttons. (see picture)

Facet are cheaper even from Beta and more reliable than SU. My father had a Morris Minor that went through at least 3 of the latter. I do hope having said all this mine doesnt fail this summer!

When we fitted our engine we were advised of all the above, our fuel tank is just below the engine, the further advice was to fit an electric pump inline with the existing mechanical, (after the water trap) no need to remove the mechanicalal. We did this and it works (so far!) From memory (this was 10 years ago) I think it is a Facet pump which has a quirk of needing nptf threaded connections - we could not find these and Beta advised using the nearest size bsp which we also did with some hermetite and that has not leaked either.

Our fuel tank is lower than the engine and Beta told us to fit an electric pump inline with the mechanical one which we did and it works so may well be an easier fix.

have you googled gsm alarm?

Re cratch cover (where did battery covers infiltrate this thread) If you want to keep it simple use the type of pvc sold for lorry tarpaulins a straight forward cratch cover shouldnt need any joints and the seams can easilly be welded with a hot air gun (and practice) hardware such as turn buckles and the like are readily available on the internet. Do make a template, a sheet of polythene will do fine.

If you join the historic narrowboat club they keep (or at least used to keep) a regularly updated (lock walls do move) list of thé tight ones.

Re the suitability of Vetus engines the main problem complained about on here over the years is the gearbox (and drive plate) not the engine at all which is probably Mitsubishi. Apparently the gearboxes dont like being run in neutral (as when charging) and are very clunky - but then the op will know that. Also at one time there was no air filter fitted which seems a bit cheapskate

If you do go after ABC a main plank of your argument will be that they deliberately hid the problem. Make sure you have some evidence of that.

We had similar on our previous (30 foot) narrowboat, small 24" shower tray with a lid on, bathroom was about 3.5' by 2'

As you are in Oxford according to your profile https://www.oxfordshire.gov.uk/residents/leisure-and-culture/libraries/reference-online/z-list

afaik the 15 mm (or any other water pipe is not likely to meet the thickness (of the pipe wall requirements) of the ISO/RCD wheras the imperial sizes (as sold for refrigeration) are available in the required thickness. As far as BSS goes how would they know?