bag 'o' bones
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Posts posted by bag 'o' bones
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Dan has mentioned recently he has no intention of commercialising CWDF.
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I've got a bottle of mercury and no idea what to do with it.
So have I - fascinating substance
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You can also use a bending machine.
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Really? What spring are you using given the internal diameter of JG Speedfit tube is about 2mm smaller than a 'normal' bending spring? And I can't imagine the bend staying 'in' when you pull the spring out, let alone when you run hot water through the pipe.
Yes really. You obviously don't bend barrier pipe very often. Never said a normal bending spring will do the job. I just mentioned JG can be cold formed using a bending spring as normal.
Rather than trying to be clever mike you perhaps should have pointed out that normal size bending spring won't fit a JG pipe so the OP will need to buy a JG spring
This is not a method approved by the manufacturer AFAIK.
Lots of things are not approved by manufacturers, but that doesn't mean that its not possible.
Because if a pipe failure occurs as a result, the manufacturer will be falling over themselves to blame you for abuse of their product.
Something tells me the above is highly unlikely to happen as long as you don't overdo it.
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You can bend John Guest barrier pipe with a bending spring as normal.
They sell cold forming brackets to maintain the shape but if you warm the pipe with a heat gun (or even boiling water) the bend will hold.
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If we are to be treated like schoolchildren, then we should have a Prefect.
Who should we nominate?
Or should we ask for Volunteers?
Too late. I already have the job.
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Apology accepted. It is best not to draw conclusions from how a post is written.
I was trying to make a point but also describe what I thought about the state of play. The main points were (for clarity)
1. its easy to blame moderation when it is all of us who post and respond to posts, threads etc. So we all have a collective responsibility for what atmosphere is set each day. If we want self moderation that must be recognised.
2. Forums are transient things and change over time some will like it, some will not.
3. Change is good, new people joining are good and probably essential.
4. It would be better here if things were less tightly managed and some more leeway was given on subject matter.
5. That leeway and more informal environment should not be an excuse for the spiteful excesses we sometimes see here by contributors (not mods)
It appears (before I was a mod) the above was tried but proved unworkable.
(Taking mod hat off) it would be great if things could be less tightly managed.
(mod hat back on) there are those waiting in the wings for the smallest opportunity to cause trouble. In fact I would even suggest (for some) its become a sport.
From a personal perspective it seems only a very small proportion of contributors who have a problem with the site and some of them - the sheep perhaps - don't even realise they are being played by a few nefarious individuals who are using the site to legitimise and support their own personal agendas.
Not to worry, life goes on.
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Hello ladies & gents
Our new boat is going to arrive covered in 2 pack high build zinc phosphate, whatever that means.
I'm not exactly sure what would be the best undercoat and finish coat to go on top of that. Im guessing something with a polyureathene base.
Any advice on particular manufactures or paint systems that would suit a brush/roller method.
Thanks in advance
The best top coat is polyurethane 2 pack.
Considering the existing base paint is 2 pack it would be madness not to carry through with the same system.
Regardless what others might try to argue 2 pack is superior to any of the older single pack systems.
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Not necessarily, they are charging fine. The alternator is pumping plenty in when engine is running, and battery charger is doing its job too. The charger is a Waeco 1512, and how I monitor the batteries is by inverter letting me know there's not enough in them. I have recently on a few occasions put a meter to them once I've had the engine running, and they have shown to be fully charged. But after four or five hours, the inverter goes off as not enough power. If I don't restart the engine or plug into shoreline, the batteries will drain to the point that not even the twelve volt lights will work after several hours.
Basically, where I could before take out the boat and have power on charged batteries for at least two days, not using anything of heavy consumption, now I can only do it for a few hours before batteries drain dead.
The batteries are two years old, they have been tested. I'm wondering if there is a bad earth or dodgy wire creating this problem? Or - could it be the batteries? It's just strange, they charge really well, but the power is seeping off somewhere.
Thank you for that, it's most useful.
How are you finding yours? I've had this one a good while and it's proved to be a good one.
Well its never gone wrong so spot on I suppose. Seem to recall it was one of the middle range quality models on offer at the time, not quite a victron but miles better than a unbranded Chinese jobbie.
Of course inverter problems can be attributed just as much to poor installation as well as a fault with the actual box.
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Hi all, I've had a Powermaster inverter on my boat for the last eight years and has performed well. The problem is I don't know the output. I contacted the company, sending pictures. I had two replies from different departments there. One said it probably could be a 1200 w and the other said it possibly could be an 1800. It seems to run everything, TV, Microwave etc but not the washing machine, but the washing machine is a Zanussi, one of those small ones which for some reason cost twice the price of a normal size one. I also have an 1100cc Beta Marine generator and that wont run the washing machine either.
053.jpgExactly the same as the one on our boat.
Ours is 1200 watt.
I think the 1800 watt version has a longer case.
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Colour matching is difficult regardless of the colour. That is why car refinishing outfits spray a test card first before beginning the re-spray job to check the colour match.
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............or if the damage is a small area have a spray can of synthetic enamel primer and top coat made up at your local paint factors. Will speed up the drying time considerably.
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topics merged and redundant posts deleted
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Have some damage to the paint on my cabin side. Have paint to match and it is a good match. what is the best way to repaint a small area (about 1foot square) in the middle of the paintwork? My concern is the overpainting/brush marks at the extremeties of the repair
Thanks
Use some cutting compouind on the paint surrounding the damage to remove the first few microns of faded paint surrounding the repair this will enable the best possible match.
'Feather' the old paint back and then build up the primer/undercoat/topcoat. Put plenty of topcoat on and allow to harden thoroughly.
Sand the edges back gently with fine wet and dry (1000 grit) to blend in the join.
Bring back the shine with cutting compound.
To be fair there is no quick way of achieving the above with a brush.
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Rubbish.
Not very helpful mike.
I was under the impression the imperial/metric debate had been put to bed here:
http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=85122&page=2
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Sorry to re-liven the discussion.
Thanks for everyone's comments, I'm currently consulting a gas qualified engineer to assess wether I can do this myself or get help.
One question ,( pardon my ignorance) we've established that imperial pipe is more suitable than metric but What is the danger of using 3/8 if 1/2 is required? ( providing the whole thing is safely and competently installed of course)
Is it loss of flow, I.e. oven going down or are there other serious problems/dangers?
It is perfectly acceptable to use metric.
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How many reports did you have?
3 or 4
rather have too many reports than none at all.
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How do you know?
I only see that OP has self reported, but that was over 2 hours ago. I posted so that others wouldn't need to flood the mods All sorted
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Threads merged and thread tidied up
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Thank you for the time being.
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A number of previous posts have been hidden pending review from the mod team.
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The TFM superstore has what you want. That is Telford Farm Machinery, they stock various old types of tar including Stockholm, The tar used for wooden boats is flexible when dry not the hard stuff used on roads, roofing tar would be near but probably difficult to obtain.
Do not use Bitumastic or these modern "twin packs" as in my opinion they are not suited for the purpose of use on canal boats being primarily designed for non contact static structures like piers, oil rigs etc.
They also have a branch in Newport.
I worked for TFM for a very short period. I didn't last long being a townie.
Good range of hardware though.
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You can see the moored boat move astern at first and then as the hire boat draws alongside it moves forward substantially which does indicate that the ropes were slack.
I do think the Angle Welsh boat was travelling too fast but it is not wash, or the lack of it that causes movement, but the displacement of water caused by the moving boat which acts on the moored boat. More speed, more effect on a moored boat.
Howard
I was not suggesting that wash causes boat movement moreover excessive wash is in an indication of excess speed (well it does on our boat - give it the beans and the water becomes very choppy).
Canal Maintenance
in Boat Equipment
Posted
To Grimec (can't message you as yet)
Have moved to equipment where it will probably attract more replies.