bag 'o' bones

To Grimec (can't message you as yet) Have moved to equipment where it will probably attract more replies.

Dan has mentioned recently he has no intention of commercialising CWDF.

So have I - fascinating substance

You can also use a bending machine.

You can bend John Guest barrier pipe with a bending spring as normal. They sell cold forming brackets to maintain the shape but if you warm the pipe with a heat gun (or even boiling water) the bend will hold.

Try this company: http://www.cloverchem.co.uk/ UBIK 2000 general purpose cleaner is good.

Too late. I already have the job.

It appears (before I was a mod) the above was tried but proved unworkable. (Taking mod hat off) it would be great if things could be less tightly managed. (mod hat back on) there are those waiting in the wings for the smallest opportunity to cause trouble. In fact I would even suggest (for some) its become a sport. From a personal perspective it seems only a very small proportion of contributors who have a problem with the site and some of them - the sheep perhaps - don't even realise they are being played by a few nefarious individuals who are using the site to legitimise and support their own personal agendas. Not to worry, life goes on.

The best top coat is polyurethane 2 pack. Considering the existing base paint is 2 pack it would be madness not to carry through with the same system. Regardless what others might try to argue 2 pack is superior to any of the older single pack systems.

Well its never gone wrong so spot on I suppose. Seem to recall it was one of the middle range quality models on offer at the time, not quite a victron but miles better than a unbranded Chinese jobbie. Of course inverter problems can be attributed just as much to poor installation as well as a fault with the actual box.

Exactly the same as the one on our boat. Ours is 1200 watt. I think the 1800 watt version has a longer case.

Colour matching is difficult regardless of the colour. That is why car refinishing outfits spray a test card first before beginning the re-spray job to check the colour match.

............or if the damage is a small area have a spray can of synthetic enamel primer and top coat made up at your local paint factors. Will speed up the drying time considerably.

topics merged and redundant posts deleted

Use some cutting compouind on the paint surrounding the damage to remove the first few microns of faded paint surrounding the repair this will enable the best possible match. 'Feather' the old paint back and then build up the primer/undercoat/topcoat. Put plenty of topcoat on and allow to harden thoroughly. Sand the edges back gently with fine wet and dry (1000 grit) to blend in the join. Bring back the shine with cutting compound. To be fair there is no quick way of achieving the above with a brush.