dor
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Posts posted by dor
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My wife has a small IKEA ‘anglepoise-like’ light with brick and 230v halogen 20w lamp.
As suggested I cut off the brick and fitted a 12v led lamp, several years ago now.
Works fine; used when stitching or reading in the evening so not likely to be subject to more than 12.7v.
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2 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:
It seems very like the "cream makers" of old where you made "cream" by mixing milk and unsalted butter and forced it through a small orifice under pressure.
The description could fit the injector pump and the injectors so what is taking the place of the butter, could it be something in the new bio-diesel produced for domestic and forestry waste? Interesting to know if the rotary pumps suffer in a similar manner.
Interesting. This "forest waste": I've not come across this as a diesel additive, so is it something that gets extracted from waste wood? In my working days I was involved with animal feed supplements and we used a material that was a by-product in the paper and wood chip industries as a binder in mineral blocks. We referred to it as a "vegetable gum" (I even got it accepted as an organic ingredient). It was also used as a binder in the brick industry.
If this material is similar it is not surprising it is gumming up the injectors.
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16 hours ago, tehmarks said:
Can you let me know what your tricks are? I have the same stove, and while I've managed to avoid having to remove the baffle plate thus far, it will have to happen sooner or later! I've been putting it off because it looks like a disaster of a job...
It could be worse! It takes me about an hour to change the bricks. You need to remove the bricks before removing the baffle plate. Make sure the grate is very clean with no dust before trying to remove/refit the bricks.
The important thing with the baffle plate is to make sure you can move it right forward, which it is sometimes reluctant to do if there is a lot of clinker built up. Some vigorous jiggling about while pulling the front up and forward usually works - make sure it does come as far forward as it will go. If it doesn't move easily, I can poke down the flue with a bit of pipe to break up the clinker, then drop a wet/dry vac hose down to pick up the clinker. I don't burn wood any more so the clinker is usually hard and dry; it was more difficult with wood as well due to the tar. I've attached the notes from my maintenance guide about changing the bricks. You can get a set for £25 off ebay from "stovecareandrepair". They are vermiculite and seem as good as any other vermiculite ones I have come across.
Good luck!
Solid Fuel Stove
No specific regular maintenance as such, but note the following.
Fire bricks. These should be replaced if broken. The rear brick is the most likely to break, but requires the side bricks to be removed to be able to change it. The side fire bricks are not easy! If removing the fire bricks, completely remove the baffle plate and sweep flue pipe. Firstly remove all ash and dust from the fire grate. Now lift the baffle plate slightly and slide forwards. If the baffle plate won’t slide forwards, it might have a load of congealed ash on top. Jiggle it with some force should break up the ash enough to move or remove it. It should now be possible to remove the fire bricks by pulling out from the bottom; a knife of screwdriver under the bottom edge might help to get this started. Baffle plate must be fully forward to release top back corners. The rear fire brick can now be removed. It should now be possible to remove the baffle plate by jiggling it – note the cutouts in the supports on the side which help to remove the plate (note which way round the plate fits!). Although you can replace the fire bricks without removing the baffle plate, it makes sense to clean the flue at this point. Clean all ash
and soot from the grate. Lift and slide baffle plate forwards and replace rear fire brick. If using new side fire bricks, chamfer (use little Surform) the top outer edge and the bottom inner edge to make it easier to rotate the bricks into position. Also chamfer off a mm or two from the inside back corner (about 50x50 triangle) of the side fire brick and a little off the bottom to help to get it up behind the baffle plate. Check also that the rear brick fits back ok, it might need a bit taking off the ends. Make sure baffle plate is as far forward as possible so that back top corner of the side fire bricks can go up alongside it. After replacing side bricks slide baffle plate back into position so it sits on the side supports and also sits on top of the rear fire brick. Fire bricks can be bought or ordered from chandlers but will be cheaper online (although allegedly not as long lasting). Make sure the replacements are for a Stovax Brunel 1A.
Flue. Smoke coming out of the top vent often indicates the flue needs cleaning (although it will smoke a bit when first lighting, especially if it is calm). The flue has a tendency to tar up quite quickly if using wood. To clear flue, remove baffle plate as detailed above. Now use a metal tube or similar (there is one in the ‘shed’ or else use the aerial pole) to scrape down inside the flue. Make sure you go right to the bottom. This is needed to remove tar as the brush is not hard enough. After scraping, use the flue brush to clear any other material. Clean out grate and reassemble the stove
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Glass replacement. Lift off door and lay flat. Slacken four screws holding retaining clips. These tend to be tight to remove, so carefully use mole grips to turn screws which have a cheese head (vertical sides to head). Cord in groove under glass should be ok, but if torn replace with same diameter. Glass should be sitting on cord when clips tightened, not on metal of door. Replace glass, noting it is not square so fit right way round. Size is 223x217mm. Tighten clips using a screwdriver only and not too tight. If you have some high temperature (e.g. “Copperslip”) grease put a bit of that on the threads.
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Thanks for coming back with a conclusion. Let's hope it all ends well.
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Worrying fofr those people who lend their boat to family or friends for a few days., not an uncommon occurance. Time to check your insurance policy.
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Just replaced the fire bricks in my Stovax Brunel 1A. God I hate this job. Despite only burning Excel, I find I need to remove the clinker that builds up on the top of the baffle plate every few months. The fire bricks only need doing every two or three years, but require the baffle plate to be removed. The rear one suffers most; the side ones would last a lot longer but I normally change them as a set while I’m at it.
Firstly need to remove all trace of ash, then jiggle the baffle plate about to try and get it to slide forward. The side bricks can then be removed, but usually very tight. Then the rear one comes out, followed by jiggling the plate to drop down. This it is usually reluctant to do - I’m sure it could be designed better if the designer was made to do the job first. Then a good poke down the flue with a piece of metal pipe to clear any clinker. After cleaning out, try and jiggle the plate back in and replace the rear brick. Now with plate forward slide the side bricks into place. These are usually too tight and very unhappy about going back in ( but after years of doing it, I’ve got a couple of tricks...). Hopefully the baffle plate will drop back into place and the job’s done. All done while lying in a contorted position on the floor.
It used to be a lot worse when I burnt wood as well, but I still get quite a bit of clinker built up.
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9 minutes ago, Laurie Booth said:
Did he see you or spoke on the 'phone for 20 mins?
It was on the phone, but adequate for the consultation I needed, and he would have arranged to see me if necessary.
Frankly I think the phone consultation is a big improvement in many ways, most of my hospital appointments have been by phone also, but seen when needed.
No travelling, no parking hassles, no waiting around for ages with a bunch of sick people, appointments on time, speak to the right person the same day, scrips sent to online pharmacy and delivered two days later.
I accept that I am fortunate in where I am treated, but very grateful for the attention I get.
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Rang my surgery on Thursday morning at 9:30 to speak to a particular gp. He rang back at 10:10 and gave me a 20 minute consultation.
I guess I am just lucky (for once).
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Not a trailer but a van...
In my teens I had an A35 van while a couple of mates had minis. I had warmed the engine up a bit, dropped the suspension a bit but road holding was dire to say the least. 4” cross-plies.
To improve things a bit I fitted wheel spacers on the back, and with a combination of a bit of extra power, lowering, the spacers and my driving skills I could keep up with the minis.
After a very ‘sporting’ drive back from the coast with my mates in the minis, the back end seemed to go a bit wobbly as I turned into my girlfriend’s road. A look at the back end showed three of the four stud extenders had sheared off.
One more hard corner could have been entertaining.
I did actually have it on its side once, sliding along the road, sparks flying, girlfriend loose in the back. Some people in a nearby house came out and helped me tip it back on to its wheels and we carried on to the cinema.
Ah the immortality of youth eh?
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Even adding 5/4mm would probably need ballast removing. IF you did go with the overplating, I would go for 6/5mm, be prepared to strip the inside to remove much of the ballast and redistribute what was left. Would need some careful investigations to determine just where it would sit in the water. Use a decent surveyor.
But, if you could get it for about 3K it could be a good boat for a good few years and still be reasonably saleable, providing the market doesn't collapse from its current high.
I would be tempted if on a tight budget, having seen the sort of boats that are available for sub-£15K.
I'm sure Bizzard could come up with a design for a sort of box baseplate where the increased buoyancy of the hollow 'box' baseplate could compensate for the extra weight. Perhaps fill it with hydrogen to gain a few more ounces of lift.
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Use good SS bolts, not brass.
I've seen a fairlead fitted with 6mm brass bolts 'ping' off under high stress . The lump of brass missed the boater's head by about two inches and could have killed him.
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Even adding 5/4mm would probably need ballast removing. IF you did go with the overplating, I would go for 6/5mm, be prepared to strip the inside to remove much of the ballast and redistribute what was left. Would need some careful investigations to determine just where it would sit in the water. Use a decent surveyor.
But, if you could get it for about 3K it could be a good boat for a good few years and still be reasonably saleable, providing the market doesn't collapse from its current high.
I would be tempted if on a tight budget, having seen the sort of boats that are available for sub-£15K.
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If the sump-type pump needs replacing, why not rake the opportunity to fit a Whalegulpher? Fit it and forget it; mine’s been working happily for 13 years now, small switch next to the shower.
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15 hours ago, Rickent said:
It would have saved people from the large droplets but most if not all of the germs, especially virus particles would have passed straight through the mask, but you felt safer due to the fact he was wearing a mask so my point stands.
Virus particles are minute compared to the holes in the fabric of masks, common sense tells you that they cannot offer any real protection.
Yes of course the virus particles are smaller, actually much smaller, than the holes in the mask. How thick do you think we are not to see this. But that is not the point. A naked virus wouldn't travel more than millimetres on its own, not to mention being slowed down by passing through a mask. The viruses will be enclosed by aerosols or blobs of mucus, many of which will be stopped by the mask. What does go through will be slowed significantly and so will travel less far.
Whilst no one claims that the mask will prevent all transmission, it will cut it down significantly and so reduce the risk of it being passed on. Common sense tells you that anything that can reduce the range and volume of virus-laden particles offers real, if not complete, protection.
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Whilst I do not want to get involved in your personal slanging match, I do think Mr Chagall has a point.
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Hope all goes well Piotr.
My experience has been different and I have had excellent support from my GP and the oncologist. I think it helps if you know enough physiology and anatomy to know what they are talking about and asking the right questions.
I'm having a tricky time with my current treatment and the oncologist has said we want to keep a close watch on you, along with a healthy disregard for NHS funding cutbacks. Another scan coming up and new chemo in the new year.
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Why would you need to run the washer and the dryer at the same time? Ok, so you could start a second wash while the first one is drying, but if you have a washer-dryer you can’t do that, so what is the advantage?
What you have works, so why change?
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1 hour ago, mrsmelly said:
Quite so but I c no point in retrograde moves on boats. The beauty of one dose of diesel on my boat is propulsion, oodles of hot water and 3.5 kW of mains lectric. Electric propulsion needs some way of charging it and no way can sun do that today and no hot water produced, a truly backward move innitt.
One possible reason is to be able to have a small, modern, efficient, low emission engine somewhere to run a modern efficient generator. EUR6-type engines seem to be impractical in a narrowboats, but something to drive a generator might be a better option. And can still give you hot water and auxiliary electrical power.
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On 24/11/2020 at 17:46, Leggers do it lying down said:
My preference is the Rottweiler (on my second at present),but a similar large dog that the "dog racists" perceive as "nasty",but are actually just like any other dog!,will do...As I have said on a previous post,"everything on the towpath slows down for a rotti!"?...Also,black dogs operate in "stealth mode" on a dark towpath!. ?
Agree that rotties can be as soft as anything. Unfortunately they are, like GSDs, often picked by people wanting an aggressive dog. Like staffies.
I did have one unnerving experience late one evening at Hurleston when a couple of Rotties came running round under the bridge and didn’t look very friendly. The owner appeared shortly after, shouted something and the dogs immediately stopped, turned and sat down. He did apologise and said he didn’t expect anyone to be out at that time.
I love well-trained dogs with responsible owners, but unfortunately there are too many irresponsible owners out there.
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How deep is “deep water”. Are we going to see these popping (shortly before they are popped) up all over the place? What about Telford Basin in Chester, there must be dozens of other places.
What a waste of money dreamed up by overpaid people who haven’t got a clue about the real world.
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The trip boat at Froghall had a hydraulic prop built into the ‘ellum. Seen it on a couple of others too.
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Something doesn’t seem to add up here. She apparently has near 100% occupancy, but no mention of providing services, pump out etc.
What sort of mooring where? She mentions paying for one, but what sort of marina would allow Ab&b?
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The normal way is to have the filter in the cold feed to the galley tap.
If you want to be different that is your choice, but why bother asking f you seem to be convinced that you need to filter all the water rather than doing what is the norm?
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1 hour ago, dor said:
In my limited experience, Hammerite seems to cure a lot quicker than other solvent-based paints and still goes off in cold, even damp conditions.
I painted my bilge with white 'Smoothrite' several years ago and it is still holding up well.
I haven't measured the temperature of thecanal lately, but it is still probably around the 8-10 deg mark, echoing air temperature (ignoring the odd cold night).
I've put on Hammerite quite thickly and it still goes off. More so than ordinary paints.
Hammerite has changed the solvent, now white spirit-based. Don't think they have changed it again.
Mastervolt Whisper Generator
in Boat Equipment
Posted
Ad is thirty months old so ...
maybe try a pm.