james2
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Posts posted by james2
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6 minutes ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:
That 42mm OD thread on the sink waste is actually a 1,1/4" BSP thread. 1,1/4" does not equal 42mm, I know, but BSP threads are weird like that. You need a 1,1/4" BSP to 25mm hose tail adaptor, or whatever internal diameter that green corrugated hose is. Get some more hose to meet the adaptor. An example. Not the best price, I'm sure, but it can be done with just one fitting.
Jen.
oh my gosh - thank you so much - as usual just knowing the right terms (in this case seems like '1 1/4" bsp' and 'hose tail' really helped the googles) makes alllll the difference. i think this will sort me out! now to try and get one quickly!
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2 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:
Something like this - several types on ebay.
Just put 42mm to 25mm hose adapter into google.
Thanks for the reply but posting as I have spent a while searching all the usual places and can't find anything that does it. Links to specific parts that'll help me much appreciated. "42mm to 25mm hose adapter" doesnt have any useful hits that I can see
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I have a sink with a 42mm threaded outlet on it and need to connect that to a ~25mm outlet pipe that's already installed. The outlet pipe has a female threaded end on it, but this could be chopped off if needed. The space between the sink and the current end of the pipe is
Can't find a single adaptor/reducer that does this, and I don't want to bodge it as this is the repair for the previous bodge.
Pic attached. The space between the two ends is only about 4 or 5 cm, but I s'pose current end could be cut off the outlet pipe to make more space.
Thanks for any ideas/part suggestions
J
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On 24/11/2021 at 18:57, Tony Brooks said:
The words "chug in time" suggest to me that the cranking speed MIGHT be low but heaters plugs not working may wll be the cause.
The manual above does not mention an air cleaner so your engine may well have the little triangular air intake at the front right side of the head/rocker cover. Apart from damaged paint I don't think putting a fire lighter against that intake will do any harm.
On 24/11/2021 at 18:13, Tracy D'arth said:Do you have any nail varnish remover? Its acetone.
The heater won't help, it will just flatten batteries.
You could try connecting the cabin battery positive to the engine battery positive with a jump cable, the extra capacity may spin it over a bit faster enabling it to start cold.
Thank you *very* much to everyone who helped me out here. I'm very eager to learn how to fix my own engine but in the end realised that I basically know (knew!) nothing and didn't have time or emotional energy to figure everything out with the time pressure of needing to be able to charge my battery so I can do my work, so I called RCR.
That turned out to be a pretty good investment because in the hour or two the guy was here I learned a TON about where everything is on my engine and a whole bunc of basic diagnostics that would have taken me hours to figure out on my own and now much better prepared for similar stuff in future and could diagnose similar issue in 5 minutes.
The problem was, get ready for it, the heater circuit indicator bulb/socket !!@£$%^^!!@£. On my boat the indicator bulb is directly inline with the glowplugs and the bulb/socket had a ton of corrosion as it was broken and exposed to the elements and cleaning it up seemed to be all that was required. (Now I understand why relays are used in circuits like this. Add a bit of complexity but isolate the control side of the circuit from the operational side of the circuit and allow them to be tested separately).
Thanks again all in this thread
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1 hour ago, Tracy D'arth said:
Do you have any nail varnish remover? Its acetone.
The heater won't help, it will just flatten batteries.
Nope. Also don't have safe way to get heat into the air intake tonight, but possibly can try this tomorrow.
1 hour ago, Tracy D'arth said:You could try connecting the cabin battery positive to the engine battery positive with a jump cable, the extra capacity may spin it over a bit faster enabling it to start cold.
Is that to check if the starter battery was low? I feel like it's not, but thanks it's handy having extra things to try to diagnose
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1 hour ago, MtB said:
This was my immediate thought too, given the time of year and condensation starting to occur overnight in the diesel tank.
Water in the fuel really messes up the starting once it gets to the injectors! Does it run if you give it a whiff of EzyStart? Or run then stop again? Or still not run at all?
I don't have any EzyStart - that might be first thing I'll try tomorrow.
Would running the diesel heater help at all with this? Temporarily clear the condensation maybe?
1 hour ago, Tracy D'arth said:Are you sure that the preheaters are actually working and not burnt out or not getting any power?
Nope - this would be something that definitely sounds like worth checking, but that I have no idea how to check. Is it something explainable online and easy to do assuming I'm reasonably handy and have a decent toolbox?
1 hour ago, Tracy D'arth said:White smoke could be because the engine is too cold to start, hence my question of the preheaters. It must be getting fuel and unless the engine is badly worn it will have sufficient compression.
To get it started can you get some heat into the air going in to the air filter from a blow lamp or something?
As a last resort a whiff of Acetone Easy Start into the air cleaner.
By the By, an hour is not sufficient to charge the batteries, if you continue to do this you will sulfate the cells and need new batteries.
Ah, the batteries have been getting up to full charge with solar until recently. So it damages the battery to only partially recharge and then start using it again, compared to a full charge?
Thanks for the advice
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1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:
How much smoke? Some wisps or clouds? How fast is it turning over? Compare it with another boat that starts if you can. What is the battery voltage while cranking?
I hope the answers are clouds of smoke and slow cranking (less than about 10V when cranking) because that indicates a poor/discharged start battery and the first really cold weather. Otherwise clouds of smoke tends to indicate a loss of compression or some other serious problems. A few wisps of smoke tends t indicate a fuel problem.
That would show as no smoke or a few wisps of smoke.
Yep clouds of grey smoke that chug in time to the engine turning over (Not sure how we define clouds or wisps but certainly very visible grey cloud more than a light wisp as if there was no fuel to burn). I don't have a multimeter handy to check but going by the sound the battery / starter motor sound healthy to me - no hint of that whine like when a car battery is dead.
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1 hour ago, robtheplod said:
I know nothing about engines, but if the solenoid is suspect for not stopping the engine could it have seized stopping it from starting?
The engine stop button makes a good sounding click like the solenoid is engaging and disengaging properly, and I did not have any problems starting/stopping the engine previously.
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Hi all! Need help with an Isuzu IM4LB33 in a narrowboat that's suddenly not starting.
Turns over, smoke coming out the exhaust but doesn't get going. Fuel tank was filled a few weeks ago. I also have a diesel heater which seems to be working fine. Have tried glowing for up to 30 seconds, and have tried with throttle in idle position and forward to what would be about medium-revs, and all the same - turns over, smoke coming out but doesn't start.
I'm not experienced in diagnosing or fixing engines so any basic/obvious things to check appreciated. I'm safe and warm but need the engine semi-urgently to be able to charge my batteries. I'm attempting to find the service manual for this engine and have found manuals for similar looking engines but not this exact one.
Engine has been in use a few times a week for last few months, has started totally fine first time up until today and previous owner had it serviced before I took ownership this year. Last use was a couple of days ago when it was run for an hour for charging batteries. Didn't notice any problems.Only small issue I'm aware of from previous owner is the stop solenoid sometimes does *not* stop the engine, but this can be solved by repeatedly pressing the button.
Thanks very much for any help/advice.
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On 13/10/2020 at 10:34, Hippy Steve said:
I contacted Isuzu with my engine number and a few days later got a reply from Dave Swain at EnginesPlus with two documents, "Canal Boat Supplementary Manual" and "4LB1 4LC1 4LE1 Instruction Manual". He also advised that the workshop manual is available for £46.50 (hard copy) or £30 + vat for electronic.
It seems that I'm not allowed to attach them here but if anybody would like them then PM me and I'll send them through.
Steve
Can't PM for some reason but if you could, please send a copy to me at lewis.james@gmail.com. My engine suddenly not starting today so need it with some urgency
Thank you!
On 13/10/2020 at 10:34, Hippy Steve said: -
29 minutes ago, cheesegas said:
It's worth investing in a decent battery meter which can measure current going in and out anyway - voltage only gives you half the story, as it will sag under load and recover. Likewise, if you charge a heavily depleted bank for an hour, the resting voltage after a few minutes will appear like it's fully charged. However, you're just seeing the surface charge on the plates and the batteries in reality aren't charged.
Victron's BMV series and Smart Shunt (same thing but minus a screen) have data ports which can be connected to the Pi via a USB converter, and the ve.direct protocol is largely open source. The BMV pushes almost every parameter over ve.direct once per second, so you can harvest and log all the data you want on the Pi...current, voltage, state of charge, amp-hours consumed, starter battery voltage.
The Smart versions have Bluetooth which is remarkably good, on a 45' boat it'll reach all the way to the front deck if mounted in a cupboard in the back.
https://www.victronenergy.com/battery-monitors/smart-battery-shunt
https://www.victronenergy.com/battery-monitors/bmv-712-smart
Thanks I have the BMV 501 right now which is basic but seems good and accurate and shows net current in which is very useful.
Do you happen to know what I need to connect my BMV 501 to PC to be able to get at the data? Assuming PC is close to the meter for now, I'll deal with the distance issue on the data wire separately as that's much more in my wheel house. BMV501 seems older so it's a bit harder to google for, but I found the manual which says it does have 'PC Link'
Getting the accurate reading out of the BMV501 onto my PC would be a great solution.
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I 'work from home' on my boat all day and sit at the bow end, and batteries and all the electrics gubbins are in the stern. There's a voltmeter in the stern that I really want to keep an eye on, but I end up walking up and down the boat all the time to check it.
There is 12V all the way up the boat (cigarette lighter style sockets), but I'm assuming that this won't give an accurate reading due to the resistance of the wire being an unknown? (Although thinking about it now I suppose this resistance should be constant and could be factored in to give accurate reading of voltage at the battery?)
What I'd really like is a bluetooth voltmeter that'd work the same as bluetooth thermometers - stick it where you want it and install an app on your phone to get wireless readings. Annoyingly this doesn't seem to exist though, at least not in price range I want to pay for this sort of thing which would be £10-20
Longer term I'm going to get a Raspberry Pi or something and start hooking up loads of sensors and do some comprehensive data collection, but short term I need to be able to easily view battery voltage of my stern batteries in the bow.
Any suggestions?
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21 hours ago, ditchcrawler said:
Then I would expect the pump to suck air. Try pumping the shower with a plug in the sink
So what stops the basin draining into the shower
Yep I think this is exactly what's happening! Happened to mention to previous occupant and they said they plugged the sink to make it go faster.
Thanks ditchcrawler and all I'll look at rerouting the sink so the pump will pump directly from the shower.
1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:I checked online and have come across the problems with it before. It is sold as a shower cum bilge pump.
Yep it's written on it 'Shower Drain Pump' and usually sold with accompanying strainer as far as I can see, so presumably up to the job. This is one I have
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9 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:
So what stops the basin draining into the shower
Nothing, the basin does drain into the shower.
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1 minute ago, nicknorman said:
Some shower drain pumps tend to get gunged up with hair, soap residue and evil slime that only grows at night on a full moon. So yes I think you are on the right lines, check pipes and filters aren't blocked by the horrid gloop. As to disconnecting the pipes, just have washing up bowl in position to collect the water - after all, there won’t be much volume of it.
The best pump for shower drain is a Whale Gulper, so if you do need to get a new pumpout, get one of those,
Pipe from the outlet to the pump is going to have a good few cupfulls of water, as is the pipe from the shower tray to the strainer, and they're both terminated quite close to the floor so I was hoping for some magic tips to magic away the water 😉 But I'll just figure out how to either unmount the pump/strainer so I can get a bowl under them or just use loads of towels or something to soak up the leaks.
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4 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:
You say show and washbasin, is the pump in a sort of tank
Nope pump and strainer are mounted on the floor next to the shower tray.
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Hi CWDF,
(New boater here, please excuse not knowing right terminology etc)
I've got a Par Max 3 shower pump out pumping out the shower and hand basin and the water literally dribbles out. It's got a Pumpgard filter before it which I've checked and is clear and as far as I know the pipe from that comes directly from the shower tray and the pipe from the pump goes directly out (the outlet is maybe 50cm above the pump if that makes any difference to anything)
Next thing I think I should do is check pipes for blockages and check that inlet pipes are secure so air can't get sucked in. Is that right? If so are there any tricks and ways to do that without disconnecting all the hoses? And for the outlet hose I guess that must be full of water, any tricks to emptying that before I disconnect from the pump?
Thanks!
J
Engine cover panel replacement - wood or metal? where to source?
in Boat Building & Maintenance
Posted