mykaskin

We have a Isuzu 1.7l 38BHP engine on our 50ft narrowboat. On the deeper bits of the GU for example it purrs along at 4 mph at 1200. If you want to know which prop you need talk to Crowther Marine Engineering in Manchester who will tell you from the engine, gearbox, and boat size. We tend to find the tickover speed is slower than you need for most passing of boats, and we regulary take in the tidal Trent and Humber, and managed to surprise all the Trent lock keepers when we were pushing up the flooded River Trent last year! Mike

The thing to do with these sort of people is to pass them as closely as possible (like the working boats did), this means you are less likely to run aground on the shallows or hit trees. It might even frighten them, and slow their speed a little. Mike

Of course, if everyone wanted to stay on the boats over night just move them out of the marina each night, and moor on the towpath - they can't say they are resident in the marina then can they! Mike

Would this be the same boat when we passed or another one in the same spot? This was after the big flood of 2007 (Note it was still several feet in flood): The answer is to not moor up if you don't need to - I had crew so they could get the lock ready, they rarely help with the boat unless it is impossible to hold it in position. With a middle rope on I've had the boat pulled away from the wall thanks to paddle flow and tipped over the boat, but nowhere near sinking it. If the river is really bad find some slack water (i.e. near the gates), or take bow/stern ropes. Story, and other pics (of Trent, Severn, and Avon in flood) here: http://shoestring.zapto.org/pics/Hols2007/index.html Cheers, Mike ps. Re: the original question, if you have to ask about single handing a boat in bad conditions - don't do it!!

I've reversed a couple of boats, both of them a long way. I tend to find longer boats go backwards better, but it does depend alot on the quality of swim (and probably size of the prop as paddle wheel effects are more noticable when reversing). To get any sort of steerage you have to go at a fair old rate - I've managed to reverse my 60ft boat about a mile, at times going as fast as 4 mph (on the GPS). When you are getting it right it feels like you are holding the boat direction on a knife edge, and the smallest of movements on the tiller left or right will alter the direction of the bow. Of course it only takes the lightests of breeze to start the bow swinging, and before long you have power forwards to catch it. Don't let the stern get to close to the shallow water, for a start there is very little grip when you are already going backwards, and the suction will pull you further into the shallows. When going backwards spend more time looking forwards as this is the only way you can actually tell which direction you are travelling in. Other than that practice makes perfect. Cheers, Mike

We cross the River Humber (from the River Hull) every year, it is possible, and easy if you know what you are doing. It can be difficult, and downright dangerous if you don't. Do not attempt to cross the Humber without lots of knowledge, and a proven boat, even the Trent can get rough when the wind is against the tide. First of all, I would not recommend doing this journey single handed. If you run into problems you will often require two people, especially when tying up, or dropping the anchor. If you do need to drop the anchor it will be impossible to lift it with one person as you need to take the weight off it by driving the boat forwards - even then it is very difficult. This is a new boat, which you have little knowledge of I take it. You must be aware of it's (and your own) capabilities, especially in open flowing water. You can not afford to make a mistake in these situations. See what it's turning circle is like, how well it can stop (very important as running with the flow increases this greatly), ensure your crew is capable, and understands your instructions, check all mechanical parts, etc. There are two tests I would also check on your way down the river. First ensure that you can run the engine flatout for hours on end without over heating - many are not capable of this, and you do not want to find this out when you are pushing a fast outgoing tide trying to stop from been washed out to sea. Second check the diesel tank is clean, many boats on canals do not have a problem with muck as it just sits on the bottom of the tank, but once the boat is moving around in choppy water it is a different matter. When doing your high speed runs down the river rock the boat side to side many times to dislodge any muck. Better to have problems on non tidal water, and in a safe® place. If possible travel with another boat doing the trip and stay together. Do not breast up as this slows both boats down, and reduces maneuverability - it's very dangerous on moving water. There are many shallows on the tidal river, a guide book is produced by the Trent Boating Association, get one. Listen to the lock keepers instructions, don't be late on the tide - it is often better to be early than late. Extra care must be taken if the boat is not very fast, the maximum flows on the tidal Trent is about 4 mph, which means most narrowboat can hold themselves against it, but then to actually move against it is a different matter, a boat making 5 mph in the water will only manage 1 mph against the ground - this is a very slow way of travelling! It's not a journey to be taken lightly, though many do and survive - they are lucky, the Trent can be a cruel mistriss just like the sea, and if you are not fully prepared it can kill (and has many times - even the prepared). That having been said - don't let it put you off, just be prepared (like a good scout), do your research, and pick your day - you may have to wait for better weather. As a little flavour here are some videos of our travels in the area: http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=1f71tT4f_t0 and one that hasn't made it to youtube: http://shoestring.zapto.org/pics/Hols2004/index.html Many other trips in and around the Humber area: http://shoestring.zapto.org/pics/index.html Enjoy, and if you need more specific information please let me know. Cheers, Mike

I happened to notice Naseby pass by the other day, and did a bit of filming as she went along the canal. I got talking to the skipper who was moving her to the River Lea for use in olympic traffic. Same company bought Falconbrook also. I've put together a simple video available here: Cheers, Mike

I always worry about the accuracy of speeds given in these sorts of things. On water, speeds always seem higher than they really are. I've been using an accurate GPS (give speeds to better than 0.3 mph accuracy) for many years on many canals, and rivers. Here, mostly from memory are the speeds we have seen: Flat out, on still open water, 50 ft 'holiday' narrowboat, Isuzu 1.7l 42 HP @ 3000 RPM. Makes about 2400 RPM with our prop (2:1) reduction. 6.5 mph. Float out, on still open water, 60 ft residental narrowboat, SR3, 5.4 mph (and lots of smoke, I think it's a little over prop'd) Rest of the figures are for the 50ft boat unless noted: Bridgewater Canal near Manchester, 5.5 mph (not flat out) - no wash Most large canals (e.g the deeper parts of the Grand Union), 4.7 mph - no wash (and piled) Slowest part of the GU, 3.2 mph, 60 ft narrowboat - no wash (slowed down more for moored boats mind). Chesterfield canal, 50ft boat, 2.5-3 mph in shallow sections River Severn, in flood last year, we topped 8.75 (going with the flow) at Norton Hill - we weren't flat out. At Tewksbury we measured the flow at only 2.75 mph but it still looked impressive. This was 16/7/07, 3 days before the big one. I'd say even at peek flow it never got over 6 mph at that point, as it then starts to go over the banks instead. We pushed the flood of the Trent, this was during the first flood event, 3/7/08. Our slowest points were just below Newark where Newark Dyke splits off from the main river, which slowed us to 2.6 mph, and at Thrumpton which slowed us to 1.8mph. We were flat out at both points, and so gave the river a flow of 3.9mph and 4.7 mph respectively. We had to wait until the follow day to get through Newark as the flood gates were shut, and the following week at Cranfleet! Once you are on the tide way things start to get a little faster at times. Bottom of a spring tide at Susworth near Keadby, 8.7 mph, giving it a flow of only 2.2 mph! After the tide turned I slowed down to about 2,000 RPM approx 5.5 mph, and we slowed to about 3 mph in the main flow, so the tide was making 2.5 mph. It didn't slow a coaster who left Grove wharf soon after low water. We must have dropped about 1 foot as he passed. Leaving Keadby just before the top of a spring tide slowed us a bit more, but on the outside of the corner just after Keadby was still not more than 4 mph. The fastest we've ever managed (in water) was 12 mph on the Humber near Reeds Island getting towards the bottom of a spring tide. We would have been doing about 6.2 mph at the time, making it a 5.8 mph stream speed. So, the point I'm making is that water moves a lot more slowly than people think. Narrowboats can vary enormously, I've seen boats struggle to get to 3 mph, and others go fast enough to push water over the bow! It was a tug style boat though :-) I think there are few narrowboat capable over going over 8 mph, even Ocean Princess doesn't manage much more than this with a 75 hp engine, and a very big prop - wins any tug of wars even with working boats! Re solitons: I don't think you could use the wave to push an engined boat alone as the speed is to high (6 mph?) on a canal. I've had lock gates open thanks to the boat wash travelling ahead, but I've had many more slam in my face! I like the idea of using a wave to get through a bridge, I'll have to try that one! Alnwick looks great travelling at speed, and I'm sure the engine would thank you for opening it full up, most diesels do better after a good run - important note however, is to ensure the cooling is good enough! Cheers, Mike ps. A lockie on the Avon said the flow of water around Norton? corner was 12 knots! It was less than 1.5 mph when we reached it, and we actually went slower just below the corner. He was using it as an excuse not to let us go further up the river after the floods. It was about 3 foot into the red further up, but even then the flow never got above 4 mph! At Marlcliff just above the look we were slowed to 2.5 mph flat out, which is a flow of 4 mph. The peak flow on the Avon during the flood at Tewksbury I estimated to be below 6 mph.

I agree, but don't forget the Aylesbury Arm also. Mike

We have the 1.7 litre 42BHP Isuzu in our 50 foot boat. The prop shaft installation was badly done, placed too high up and to close to the swim, so we get a bit of vibration. We purchased a smaller Crowthers high effeciency prop, which is 16x12 but equivelent to 18x12, to give extra clearance to the counter. With this setup we reach 6.7 mph at 2400 rpm (flat out). We have pushed many rivers this year feet into the red including the Trent, Severn, and Avon with no problems. Re: Beta JD3, these are not really anything special - just low power tractor engines, and sound like one as well. Never thought much of them, but not actually driven a boat with one. Hope that helps, but probably just muddied the waters more! Cheers, Mike BTW - We would have probably gone for the larger Beta engine if we had a boat built, but the shell already had this unit in it. We , however, do lots of tidal work including the Humber, so... BTWA (By the way again) - My other boat, 60 foot, only has a Lister SR3 (17x? prop) and just about manages 5.3 mph on a good day, but is fine for canal work - just doesn't stop very well! http://shoestring.zapto.org/

If William needs to pull out for any reason I'm up for it also. I have a Gold Licence which I haven't managed to make use of this year yet, moor with High Line at Northolt, and have managed a pair before. Mike Askin http://shoestring.zapto.org/ (Edited for typo)

I suppose it depends a bit on how fast the ship was travelling, but bow wave is different to displacement wash. Water line length will also have some bearing on the effects as well as bow shape. Ships have a very efficient shape, which reduces bow waves, to save on fuel, so this could have a bearing also. Cheers, Mike

I had the pleasure of bow hauling my 60 ft narrowboat over a mile from Uxbridge to Cowley Lock. I used the centre rope tied off around my waist (not tight by the way so it was easy to get out of), and used the bow rope to control the direction. I managed to get it running at over 2mph at times by using this method. I also tried tying the two ropes together but had less control like this. Unfortunately to many boats are moored above Cowley and so had to pole the boat like a punt passed them - this was slower! I also had to move the boat (without engine) from Noltholt to Bulls Bridge once, through thin ice between Christmas and New Year. We didn't see a boat all day to help with towage, and it's 4 miles. I had the bow rope, and my friend pulled on the stern rope. We did quite well like this, but the ice, and sharp corners slowed us down quite a bit. Bow Hauling Martin Reeds Hotelboat Butty Ash was easier as it pulled from a mast at the right point. Still heavy in and out of the locks though. Cheers, Mike

A couple of issues. Firstly the login information is sent in the clear - it might be an idea to use SSL for this. Second, did Nick Atty give you permission to use his canals database? Cheers, Mike Askin

I noticed it on the river when we passed about a week ago. We moor our boat up at Hempholme, and occasionally go to the Foresters for a booze up with the boat club. Not sure how much room there is inside, but I suspect it will be a little cramped to live on. Still, an interesting boat at a good price. I'm not sure how you would get on with canal cruising with this boat, headroom might be an issue on smaller ones. Also the propellers would be a little prone to damage I suspect. I would say a 20hp engine might be a little to small, especially if you are taking it across the Humber at anytime. Something like a BMC 1.5 might be better. Remember you may need to change the prop if the engine doesn't match it's size, and rotation. Gearboxes will sometimes bring the drive shaft downwards if this is a problem, but again might change the rotation of the shaft! It would be fun in the Humber with a good swell brewing, it least you wouldn't be worried about it capsizing! Cheers, Mike

One option is to use YouTube (or similar) to host seperate videos, and have a webpage which links to them (or even to a playlist). If you search for narrowboat on youtube it comes up with plenty of stuff people have done - some better than others. The problem with starting a "channel" like this is content. It needs to be something people want to watch, but not be expensive to produce (or have enough people watching it to make adverts a funding option). I guess lots of boaters have access to the internet away from the boat, and most who would be watching are probably not boating at the time anyway. As an experiment I am currently uploading short videos of our holiday as they happen, this is all done on a mobile phone (GPRS), so it is possible to create short items on the move (and possible to watch them if you wait long enough). Check out my videos at: http://www.youtube.com/view_play_list?p=7D03663C1AD388EB Cheers, Mike

I'll tell you where the photo was taken! Beverley Beck - are you sure it hasn't floated away in the floods! Cheers, Mike ps. Note the backpump pipe (far left), a little useless at the moment since I understand the Beck is flooded

Going down hill in most wide locks is quite safe to do so without ropes. Only if there is a very strong side wind do you need to watch what is happening - as at the top it will push you one way, and then when your roof drops below the coping stones it will be pushed the other way. If you need to get off to assist with the lock, then taking a rope ashore may be useful to get back on again. The person operating the lock may need to check with you which gate to open as sometimes it's easier to get to one side than the other. Of course, use the engine/tiller to hold the boat away from dangerous/messy/wet bits. It is also possible to go up locks without ropes in well mannered wide locks. Opening the ground paddle on the boat side will hold it alongside that wall, you can open the other side, but do the last bit to the top slowly, or leave it half up. Open the gate paddle on the none boat side. I've been boating for awhile, so if I'm the only boat in the lock, normally I do this with GU/Regents locks (with two people, my Dad, and I): WARNING: Do not try this at home (or anywhere else), it is here as an example of how it can be done!!! :-) Enter the lock (towpath side), the other side top gate will normally swing open, engage reverse, and push the stern of the boat accross to the other side Dad closes the towpath gate I stop the boat such that the bows are near the far end of the lock on the towpath side of the lock (so that the boat is across the lock), and step off with the back rope. WARNING: If you have a bow fender, ensure it is not going to snare on anything as the water level drops. Put a SINGLE turn around any convient bollard, or leave the rope lose on the ground - its just there to get back on the boat. Ensure there is good length between the boat and bollard so if it does get trapped you will have time to shut the paddles, or fix the problem. NEVER tie a boat up going down hill. Close the top gate, and any paddles. Open the bottom paddle - hopefully by this time the boat has just come to rest on the bottom gates, if not then lift the paddle slowly until it does - Dad will usually beat me to the bottom gates, so the water flow will help keep the bow at the towpath side - it's a pain when it goes the wrong side, hence the rope. Run back to the rope, pull the stern in if nessesary (usually not needed, as when it nessles upto the bottom gates it pushes the back towards my side again Jump onboard (with the rope) before it goes down to far Normally I pull the boat back a little to stop it getting trapped in the corner, but keep the bow behind the mitre until I know which gate Dad is going to open. This way it holds the bow on the towpath side of the lock. Dad closes the other side paddle just before level (timing this right is an art), and goes back across to open the towpath side bottom gate, by this time I am alongside that wall pallellel, or at least my bow is the right side of the lock - pulling back a little more may be needed to get the gate open. I trundle out slowly so as not to move the other gate (easier with the heavier bottom gates), and pick my Dad up after he's closed the gate. Going up: GU and some other locks are designed to allow someone to step off with a rope upon entering the bottom of a lock. When single handing or when trying to share the work more, I step off with the centre rope, allow the boat to drift into the lock (getting the speed right, timing, and handling of the rope is tricky - ensure the rope is not going to get trapped on any part of the gate). I strap the boat to a stop on the bollard near the bottom gate (sometimes there isn't one, improvise quickly!). Take the line forwards to a centre bollard (if there is one), and using a tugmans/lightermans hitch tie it off. Then operate the lock normally. On leaving the lock, it is possible even single handing to close the gates - there is no excuse. Stop the boat, and take the back rope ashore with you, and shut the gate, easy to do going up or down. Like I said earlier, be careful. If you want to try any of these ideas out, do them slowly, learn the pit falls for your boat and lock designs. Above all, have fun! Cheers, Mike

The newly restored Snakeholme lock on the Driffield Navigation can be tricky. The lock walls slope quite well, but the biggest problem are old bolts that used to hold wooden rubbing strakes. We have a flat sided boat (Birmingham Square), and so is partuculary prone to catching. If you are on board, and at the tiller, use the engine in reverse to move yourself off - but be quick about it. It happened once while I was on the roof, and pushing it away from the wall eventually freed it. It lent quite a way before it fell off the offending obstruction, but they will normally fall off eventually. The morale of this story is to avoid using ropes while in locks going down. Use the engine to hold the boat somewhere away from the walls, and there wont be these problems, but always be ready for problems! But the boats and cargo weren't - so time and money was spent on ensuring they were safe. Cheers, Mike

I have made a chart showing the tidal flow patterns of the Thames: (For a litle more information, and bigger picture see my (unfinished) website page at: http://shoestring.zapto.org/boatinfo/Thames/index.html. As you can see at North Woolwich it is nearly equal, and at Richmond you only get 3 hours of rising water (the flow of water might be still going downsteam during this time!) Tides - you either love them or hate them, but either way they always give you a headache! Cheers, Mike

I'm guessing here, but there could be three effects... 1. The non-symetrical prop wash could be travelling down one side of the butty, and thus in the narrow channel push the butty to the side - going through bridges with the towpath the other side would prove this. 2. No matter how hard you tried, you may have been erring on the towpath side of the bridge, and thus the smaller gap caused a low presure point on that side, and pulled the butty into it. Again - going through bridges with the towpath on the other side may prove/disprove this point. 3. The boat being towed with not completely symetical, and so was being towed slight askew? Cheers, Mike

I have been investigating the use of Diesel electric propulsion for my narrowboat. I've fancied it for awhile, but the state of the technology and expense has put me off. I have found an interesting website however: http://solarboat.co.uk/ Which specialise in electric powered boats. In fact there is a replica Kennet barge on the K&A which is completely solar powered! Looking at costs, you are looking at about £8000 for a 30hp system (which is more than enough for canals - but I want to do tidal rivers as well). That's a lot of diesel, but eventually I will want to replace my SR3 with a new engine, and then it becomes a little more economical to do. However if you can't actually use Red in this way, there would be little point if you are trying to avoid the extra fuel costs. Re: GPS's and narrowboat speeds. We travel at as near to 4mph as the canal will allow. When we catch boats up, they are usually doing over 3mph, but only just. The slowest boat we have been behind was however going less than 2mph, and since our tickover is 2.5mph....

I understand that is against BW regulations to run the engine in gear while moored. Can anyone confirm this.

I already have - me and a mate pulled Shoestring (60ft residential boat) 4 miles along the canal. Did I mention this was with ice on the canal? It doesn't make it easy! Mike ps. This was because my engine was being repared (out of the boat!) and I had to get the boat back to where the engine was.

Well just to answer your original question, currently you can only go about 200 yards to a turning circle. The lake beyond which it will eventually join to is still leased by a fishing club, and to avoid annoyance they are not connecting it up yet. Wilts and Berks new junction canal picture Mike