Narrowjack

Ouch, not good. I know the feeling and sympathise. So you're going for the mini parts then and not the toyota items?

Hi Stuart, how did your alternatives work out? I'm going to have to replace my bushings soon too. Grateful for your insights.

Hi all, Here's a question for those of you familiar with this particular piece of kit. I've had this stern gear seal since the boat was built 12 years ago [about 1900 running hours, not much in 12 years I guess] and a great piece of kit it is too. However, during a recent trip around the four counties it's started to drip. I did do some maintenance on it a few years back, inserting a fresh shot of the official grease between the seals, but I guess nothing lasts forever. So it looks like she'll have to come out for a replacement. The question is, whilst I've been looking into the technical bit on the seal it seems that the lubricating/cooling water supply is supposed to be into the seal, as opposed to expelled from the seal. However, on my boat the connection point of the pipe is actually on the weedhatch body at a point actually above the water level, when the props not turning. So, what the hell? The builders built plenty of these, so mine can't be the only one.... Anyone shed any light on the subject?

When I did it few years back I just used silver hammerite. Great job.

Thanks folks

Thanks folks

My deck boarding is getting a bit past it. Its 18mm buffalo board per original fitment by the builders. I can get a sheet of board and cut it myself, but anyone know of a timber merchant or boat builder around the nantwich/chester area who can supply and cut to size? A lot of timber merchants even if they can supply only seem to be able to do straight cuts.

Thanks all, it's a vertical calorifier, normal household size, I'm not clear from your responses which side you're saying to fit, though probably doesnt make much difference I guess...?

Hi, thanks for the quick response. Perhaps you are correct, but I refer to a normal calorifier set up where the flow comes in from the bottom and the heat will sink out of the coil as the tank cools. However, I guess either will work to stop the flow. Thanks for the experience on cooling pump flow, I guess that sounds like a good bit more that the 0.3 bar min pressure for a normal domestic check valve. Cheers.

Something I've been meaning to address for years, but never got around to, is the cooling effect of return convection from the domestic hot water tank to the engine (& thus the hull panel), resulting in a reduction of hot water in the mornings, particularly in winter . All it needs is a check valve in the flow from the engine to the bottom of the calorifier, but as it's only the pressure of the engine water pump pushing the flow I'm a bit unsure of the suitability of a normal domestic water system valve. Anyone any recommendations as to type of valve?

You're quite correct, but only until it gets damp again, which is only a matter of time. Current one is a VDO item, but this WEMA one I have no experience of, thus asking if anyone else has.

Hours readout on my tacho has been grudging eventually coming up for the last year or so but, now not having it at all. I imagine this is down to a crack in the gauge face that occurred some time ago (a belt from a windlass at some stage probably), so time to replace. I've picked up a WEMA item pretty cheaply and will fit in the next month or so. Whilst the wiring is slightly different I've sussed it out and it shouldn't present any issues. However, I'm wondering if anyone has installed one of these gauges and whether they've had any problems with it?

Yes, you mean the Staffordshire arm, over towards the museum? I've always been a little Leary of that side as it doesn't appear too salubrious and seems a little isolated.... Any experience of mooring that side?

Hi all, I'm after some up to date info on visitor mooring in Castlefield basin. We're thinking of doing a run up to Manchester 2nd week of Easter and last time I was there (it was a while ago) a resident told me peel holdings were going to let off a lot of the space as permanent moorings, which I believe came to fruition. It was not always easy to get a decent slot there anyway, so I imagine it's pretty hard now, especially at peak periods. Any guidance would be appreciated.

Ok, thanks all.

Hi all, Just canvassing opinion before I replace @ £300. Had this inverter for last seven years with no issues, but yesterday the wife was using a small travel hair drier off the mains circuit and the power went out, so she checked the inverter which was indicating overload, so she switched it off, left it for 5mins and switched on again (hair dryer disconnected) Green light came on, but then she got a blue flash and a pop from the inverter. So she called me & I isolated the supply to the unit. There was a noticeable electrical hot smell. Anybody had a similar experience with one of these? If so what burned out & is it replaceable. Realise this is somewhat general, but any steer appreciated.

Stuart, I wish I'd seen this prior to fitting a similar unit recently. It would have bee very useful. The best article I've seen on this [including Sterlings] & believe me I looked! However, it does serve to confirm that I've got it right, but I could do with some reassurance that the unit is in fact working correctly. Basically my installation is very similar to yours, except I am running a lucas type 80amp alt into a bank of three 135ah batteries and I'm using the sterling pro B. When I started up, the the boost light and the battery type light come on. The green boost flashes for less than a minute before going solid green. However, The voltage at battery terminal [sensepoint] initially climbed to about 13.9v and then actually dropped back to fluctuate around 13.75 for about 45 min until I had to switch off & go home.No other lights came on during that time. I think the battery voltage was about 11 volts when I started the motor. Does this all sound correct, as I'm unable to find anything that clearly tells me what the sequence of lights should be. i.e. should the timer light have come on within that time? The alt seems to be working hard, it's certainly running pretty warm. Thanks for your help Steve

Not sure if you've got the clamp ring released by now? Probably, as you posted some time ago. The way to get the taper rings to seperate is to use the two 8mm bolt holes to screw in a couple of long bolts with a weight on them which is free to slide up & down the bolt. You then use the sliding weight as a 'hammer' under the bolt head to get the assembly to release. Believe it or not these are termed 'slide-hammers'. Sorry to see that you've had this problem. Especially as I've just fitted one of these units to an identical set up as yours! Appreciate if you'd let me know the outcome of the failure investigation. Good luck.

Sorry about this, I'm sure this question's been asked [& answered] a hundered times in these forums, but what are the basic do's & dont's associated with arc welding on boats, e.g. in the water/out the water; isolation of circuitry etc. I've done a search but I'm not seeing what i'm looking for. Thanks for any advice.

Support the view on the sterling 1800. Not the biggest unit, but so far it's run everything I've tried on it [no washing machine though!] & doesn't seem to consume much pwoer in running itself. One word of caution though, our unit failed, continually tripping on overload after about four weeks. The spark who came to fit the replacement said it was probably down to a software issue. Apparently there has been some sort of problem associated with a certain recent batch of these items. The repalcement works perfectly.

Thanks to all. Just what I wanted to know

A question for the more seasoned navigators out there. Intending to do the Llangollen imminently & it occured that last time I did this [some time ago], I could swear that some of the bridges were power operated & consequently the controls locked away from gen public. If memory serves [& it's getting dodgier these days] said controls were accessed by BWB key. however, I've rung BW & they say no, nothing required but windlass. Is it my deteriorating neural connections or was my informant wrong? Reason I ask is that I haven't got a key yet [naively thought one would come with my licence].

Thanks for that Liam. Yes, I'd be obliged to you for the contact. I'll give him a call on your recomendation & see how we go. Let you know.

Nantwich. Did put this in my details but.... I've just realised that we'd already already contacted the chap kindly recomended by Gibbo, but he hasn't reponded to our query. I guess he's either too busy to respond or is work rich at the moment & is in the pleasant position of being able to ignore queries. The one quote I've been able to get so far seems very steep, but then I've nothing to compare it with yet. Considered going the vinyl route, but thought I'd like to go trad & put some money the way of a craftsman, even though I know it'll cost me. However I didn't realise that perhaps the folk still engaged in traditional signwriting are now so few(?) that they can afford to pick/choose & come very expensive. Again, a nice place to be.