Radiomariner

Most Cills in my cruising area are also marked, but as pointed out above by haggis once the steerer is below the level of the lock top he no longer has that visual indication. If the boat is a bit on the longish side, around the time the steerer should be concerned about the cill his crew manning the lock gate are likely to be shouting that he needs to move astern a bit so they can get the gate open. When he sees the cill of course it is far too late. The steerer should remember, he is in control, advice from the lock top is welcome, but the cill is more important. The other can be sorted out later. Someone earlier in the forum mentioned port/starboard lists in locks due to mooring ropes which reminded me of an incident some years ago when locking down on the Thames. I recon the lock keeper had crammed about 14 boats into the lock. Steel hull boats along the edges, plastic boats in the middle. As the lock emptied I noted that we were starting to list a little. At first I thought is was just my crew moving from one side of the boat to the other. The listing rapidly worsened, I then discovered that my "rubbing strake" was hung up on a protruding brick in the lock side. Shouting and screaming at the lock keeper did not seem to be working. When the plastic boat next to me started to make strange 'creaking' noises I pressed the horn and kept it pressed. That did the trick. However, by the time he got the sluices shut we were over at an angle of 30 degrees or more, and small cracks were appearing on the gunwhales of the plastic boat where the fenders were starting to make indents. It does not happen often, but hanging up on the side of a lock is something else to be aware of. Also, to avoid sinking, make sure that horn works! Radiomariner

You need more than a two feet sign. Youd need to remind them also to remember to keep an eye on the stern fender as well as the bow when locking up in case they get snagged under the gate. To look in two directions at once is difficult for a novice boater. I recall my son on one of his earlier driving lessons (Motor car) exclaiming " I cant do all this and steer as well!" Radiomariner

You can of course make your own shunt, usually somewhere in the region of 0.001 ohms (Depending on the range of meter you plan to put across it. I used a short length of copper bussbar and cuts a slot in it until the resistance was correct. Mind you, I cheated, I did not have a meter accurate enough to read the ohmic value, I already had an operational shunt with which to do comparrison checks under a fixed load. Keep hacksawing until it comes right, go too far then get another piece of copper and start again! Rgds Radiomariner

My Marker Harborough boat has a very high prow. I believe one of the reasons for this 'old' design was to prevent the boat from flooding in such an event, depending of course on the height of the cill from the lock bottom and the length of the boat. At least it would have a better chance than most modern boats. If this happens it must be tempting to quickly refill the lock again. I would be tempted, but not quickly, Slowly. As soon as it becomes apparent that the boat is not going to float or water starts entering the boat shut top paddles and open the bottom ones and call and wait for help. Two points : Your boat wont get flooded all the way through It is much easier to crane out a dry boat than one full of water Perhaps there is a place on the market for some sort of presure sensor that gives off a loud audible alarm at the slightest increase of upward pressure on the skeg. (Bit that hods the bottom of the rudder) Could take the form of a strain gauge type sensor. Should not be too difficult or over expensive Any electrical genuises out there? Remember it was my idea first! On second thoughts, this might result in more boats getting damage to their stern gear due to them testing their alarms!!! (A am assuming of course that stern fenders are always fitted so that they will lift if it was just the fender that caught on the cill) Regards Radiomariner

Thanks for the comment John. That's pretty much as I suspected. But why oh why can I never get hold of a surveyor when I need one? It would also be nice to have a BSS examiners cert, because lots of people require that at the same time as the survey, but there is a massive waiting list for the training course. My last BSS examiner said that there were already too many in the area, but then he would say that, wouldnt he? I would have thought there would have been a shortage of BSS examiners with the Broads now coming under the BSS Scheme. Rgds Alan (Radiomariner)

Hi Heather. I am an ex Merchant Navy Marine engineer. (Yes big boats that go to lumpy places). I retired a little less than five years ago at age 60. Finding my brain deteriorating I studied for and obtained a Lloyds Academy Diploma in Small Craft Surveying with accreditation in Inland Waterways & Canal Craft. My intention was mainly to re-stimulate the old grey matter, and the subject chosen because I have owned a narrowboat for some 15 years and I naturally have an interest. It was not my intention to actually take up surveying but have recently considered the possibility of doing so on a part time basis to earn some pin money to supplement my pension. Here is my dilemma, my catch 22. To get recognised and an indemnity insurance I need a track record. To get a track record I need to have proof of work in the field. To get work in the field I need a track record and indemnity insurance. I am considering offering my services free of charge, (Except for any expenses) in order to get things going. I live in the Bedford area, Hinckley is about 55 miles, which I consider to be a reasonable travelling distance. Expenses (travelling and a meal) should be no more than £50 (Cautious estimate, probably less). As said I am presently only considering this. Although I had grade "A's and B's" for all my course work I am presently a little nervous about actually taking it up. You may contact me at Alan_Breck_Stewart@msn.com Readers comments appreciated. Rgds. Alan Stewart Dip. S.C. Surveying Reg No. SmCrSur 07-039

Well there you are Maveric. I did not know about "slow Blow" connectors. Seems extremely plausible, and the most likely answer to your original query Radiomariner

. I think he means that his starter battery is adjacent to his Domestic Battery and have common negative terminals. He puts his spanner across +ve terminal of Domestic battery and +ve terminal of Starter battery and presumably holds it there while starting the engine. Not much risk if both batteries are fully charged, but remember one is not, possibility therefore of lots of sparking. If that domestic battery has been charging possibility of lots of O2 gas around and bang! Also possibility that spanner could shift and come in contact with a -ve terminal nasty bang again, and if 02 ignites even worse. There is nothing wrong with putting a jumper across, but make sure it is well secured before switching on. Dont do it too often thoug it could be bad for your deep cycle battery. Radiomariner

Unless both boats have batteries negative to hall and the hulls are actually touching, it wont work. Seawater has an ohmic resistance of something like two ohms per mm, Rain water something like 2,000 ohms per mm. Dirty canal water is somewhere in between nearer the rainwater side than seawater. Assuming the best of these, seawater, and a distance of approximately three inches between the boat hulls means a resistance of 1500 ohms, which with a 12 volt battery the maximum current plausable would be 8 milliamps! The reason for steel hulled boats making such a good contact with earth, is due to the very large surface area in contact with the earth. Regards Radiomariner

Of course, do nopt forget to remove the plastic bag!!!! Radiomariner

Soggy Moggies mentioned voltage drop. With a much higher current and if the lead is long, the voltage drop could be so great that the starting motor will not run. The starting motor may baulk before one of the cylinders reaches maximum compression, then with no "Back" voltage from the starting motor the current will increase even further, flattening the batteries in no time, that is if the cable or starting motor do not burn out first! If the starting motor stops turning when engaged to the engine, switch off immediately and investigate further. Try turning with the engin de-compressed as I said earlier I do not have any jump leads. Last time I helped someone out that way the other boat dissapeared down the cut with my leads still on board! Regards Radiomariner

This is a new one to me. However I have some Idea to the reason. It is known that the cold cranking current for a diesel is greater than that of a Petrol engine, because of the greater cylinder compression needed. Starting current can be very much above 200 Amps. Having said that, a 200A Cable should be able to take a much higher current for a short period, such as for starting the engine.(There are calculations for this) However, in cold weather some, especially older, diesels can be a considerably long time cranking before firing. I guess that the manufacturers are playing safe and do not want to take responsibility for some mishap due to overheated cables. A 200 Amp cable is quite a hefty cable and not particularly practical for jump leads. It is possible that the cable is specified for 200 Amps over a certian time period in much the same way as a "slow-blow" fuse will take a higher current for short periods, only in which case for micro seconds If you have such an engine, and have the facility to de-compress the cylinders, for the first start on a cold morning (When you are most likely to require a jump lead), I suggest you de compress the cylinders until the engine is cranking quite rapidly then throw the compression levers over. (As you would with a hand cranked engine). This will be good news for your starting battery and should probably allow you to use that 200A cable. Examine the cable after use for damage or hardening of the insulating material, it only takes a few seconds of your time. Rgds Radiomariner

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