jake_crew

I did a search for a freeware "download helper" to assist with d/ling youtube videos of my favourite bands, videos of boats, boat engines, JET engines, planes (real and model), steam rallies etc. The one I chose is called "Video DownloadHelper 4.0.2" and it embeds itself into the browser (Firefox) so its an extra button on the toolbar. Once the video is playing, right click, add the destination drive & filename and bobs your whatsit. Mind you, each of Mikes vids took about 90 mins to d/l , so its best to do this when the net is quiet, ie 3am. ---------------------------------------------------------- Ref instructions in original post - I stand corrected. I just hit my little button out of habit nowadays when ever I find a film of interest. (One of these days I'll get the hang of this interweb thingy)

Sorry I couldn't make it, fixing the car took priority. I hope you all put the world to rights. Count me in for the next one.

Brilliant. I now have them saved for when there's a gap in the schedule of "I'm in a celebrity, get me out of the ice". Actually I've already watched 'em and am looking forward to seeing them again.

Because electricity (mains voltage) is more dangerous IMHO. With water problems you get a puddle, with gas problems you get a smell, but with mains power problems you don't know until someone gets a belt. If they're in an unbonded electric shower at the time, not protected by an MCB, they'll be electrocuted.

Any plans for Sunday morning (apart from a lie-in) ? I've a 21st on Saturday (not mine), but have Sunday free.

Great news. Celebrate by getting a few coats of black on, either yer tummy, or on the hull ! :lol:

How deep are the pits, how thick is the metal ? Are the pits really that bad. In my experience of welding rusty cars, blobbing weld in to a rusty pit will blow a hole right through. Maybe better to leave alone. I didn't see any anodes on your pictures, what do they look like ? When did you last dock and repaint (at least two, pref three coats applied over several days after a full pressure wash and wire brush scrub). Anyway, Aside from that, most boats over 20+ years, need or have had some overplating. You can't stop the corrosion, only slow it a bit. If you're near salt water, or where there's lots of air in the water (downstream of a lock for example) corrosion increases. The bottom plate is usually better preserved than the water-line beacuse its the air that does the damage, tho' the bottom will get scraped on the mud more than the sides. We had a full side skin up to the waterline done on a 28 y.o. 60 foot boat a few years back for about £8K. This was the last job this yard did before the owner retired so I can't make any recommendations now. This re-plating was forced by the BSS exam where the "examiner" hit the plates with a sledge hammer and he then made his judgment on the basis of the "clang" and the size of dent. Not very scientific IMHO. I'd say that a boat which has had the work done will be more marketable, than one where there's an embarrassed silence or shilly-shallying in answer to the question "has it needed any re-plating". You're choice may of course be limited to boatyards reasonably close to you.

Mona Lisa, why not fill in your profile and tell us more about yourself and the good ship "Mytee". A few pictures are always nice.

I work in the oil and gas industry. For low level leaks, we use a very strong soap solution to look for bubbles. Mind you, we're talking 5000psi, so you can usually HEAR the leak. The trouble with domestic / boat gas systems is that the pressure is SO low, its very difficult to see a real leak. Temperature changes over time will cause the pressure in a sealed system to change so, what looks like a leak could be just the gas cooling. This is especially a problem with butane which is only just above its boiling point at this time of year. All I can suggest is nipping up all compression joints. If necessary, open the joints and use an approved sealing goo and re-assemble.

I'd have expected the new style flat screen tellys to be 10X better than the old CRT type on 12V ? But I haven't got one to try. Our old CRT TV did the job ok winter nights. The best reception we ever got was when the aeriel got left the the coal bunker (fore end 'ole) by mistake ! We now take an Archos portable media player with a few videos with us. Its also a good excuse to get away from the telly and play cards.

The air cleaner is NOT like my HR. Might it be an SR2

To empty the tank, use a suction type pump, thro' the filler hole to get as much as poss. out. Use the list of the boat to get all the fuel to one side. The standard outlet for the engine will probably be an inch or more from the bottom of the tank. Ref. not stopping - your plan sounds reasonable - or just use the decompressors (not ideal). I did buy some scrap lead a few years back. 1/4 ton was about £100. The flat steel plates are a good idea - tho' not so easy to cut to size. Many people use pavour bricks as they are cheap but they aren't very heavy. Blue engineering bricks are a bit denser. Can you move some ballast from one side of the boat to the other, rather than just adding more ?

I recall Paxman being reduced to tears when learning how his ancestors had been in the Poor House in Victorian times (Who do you think you are) . I suspect Paxman had a particular interest in finding out more about the life of the working man and the East End slums.

Perhaps the webmaster could remove all references to Johns email address ?

On the canals only, I'd suggest that a boat handling course is perhaps a bit over the top, but a better idea if you plan to use the larger rivers. My main suggestion (a repeat I admit) is practice coiling and throwing ropes. With practice, you'll be able to throw a rope to 90% of its length - invaluable in an emergency. Thats ALL your crew - not just yourself. My 10 year olds were taught to do it.

P M sent - look in yer inbox !

Whats the story there ????

Or you can get "Pig Mat" which absorbs liquids - like nappies. The white type absorbs oil only, the grey type will soak up oil AND water. Once wet, you can hang them up to dry for re-use.

A cracking video, you either had 6 cameras, or filmed 6 times from different angles ! I also loved the Braunston 2008 film too. I thought for a minute I saw my hat, but someone else was wearing it !

The other side of the coin is that 110V gear will use twice as much current, so cables & switchgear will need to be heavier duty and more expensive. The funny thing about all this is that its the current (through your heart) that kills, not the voltage. I've had a few 5KV belts (from ignition systems) but am still around to moan about it.

On the way to Leamington make sure you go to the museum at Stoke Bruerne and preferably stop overnight to pop in the Boat Inn there. If your party don't like tunnels (having sampled Blisworth), its an easy walk over Braunston tunnel - see who beats who - boat or boots ! Braunston basin is worth a mooch around - the floating cafe at the entrance does bacon sarnies to die for (I forget the boats name). The Blue Lias at Stockton has a huge range of malt whiskys to try. If you have time on the way back, go up Watford Locks (some a staircase) and on to the Leicester section. The top pound is 20 miles long and very remote, so if you want a peaceful night out in the sticks this is the place to do it. IMHO some of the experienced boat owners amongst us could do with being a bit more helpful and welcoming to the novices. I think its the remnants of the British Class system. I got my ear bent last year for nudging a VERY smart boat whilst helping out a newbie. The boats are built to take more than the odd knock. But if you choose to have mirror finish spray painted rubbing strips, I'm afraid I don't have a lot of sympathy (rant over). Ref. drinking - there is no law preventing it on the cut. Some people seem determined to permanently plastered nowadays (second rant over). The GU is a great canal. I love it, as I also like the narrow canals too. If sharing the double locks, go in at the SAME TIME as the other boat, each of you watching out for 'your' lockside. It is SO much quicker and easier, saves lots of mucking about with ropes. If alone in a wide lock going up hill, keep the boat down by the bottom gates. Start by opening ONLY the top paddle on the same side as the boat. The water flow will keep the boat safe by the wall. Open more paddles once the boat is halfway up. Again, this saves lots of ropes, altho a single rope from the centre stud can be useful.