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RLWP

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Everything posted by RLWP

  1. Where are the three missing combustion chamber inserts? Richard
  2. It is the latter, of course Richard Is it possible to swim in the stuff at the bottom of Ryders Green? Richard
  3. That'll be because she hasn't sent it yet! Richard
  4. We are wondering if your email account is somehow bouncing emails with multiple recipients. I'll get Sue to send you an individual email Richard
  5. Hi Jan, your email address is bouncing messages back - could you let us have it again to be sure we have it right Richard
  6. Yes, the pools are navigable - but don't imagine the whole pool is the same depth. As with any BCN boating, stay away from the edges! There's a new supermarket the other side of the M5 and I think mooring rings. We've winded there Richard
  7. We have a BMC 2.2 in our distressed engine pile that has been giving up parts to other engines for years now. The parts you are after should still be available Richard
  8. Give Sue a ring on 01926 356200. I'll let her know what it is you are looking for Richard
  9. The only book I have found that has that gearbox in it is rather odd. We've got quite a number of Lister/Petter manuals and handbooks from Peter at Uxbridge, many of which are of curiosity value rather than being practical. In them, from a series produced (probably) under Hawker-Siddeley are a handful of Armstrong Siddeley books for a two cylinder engine, which we had been ignoring On closer examination, the engine in the books isn't an A~S, it's a Petter PH2/PH2W and it has a parts list for that gearbox. Even more remarkable as I haven't been able to find a Petter book with it in We've got a few left Richard
  10. It looks very BMC/Parsons to me! Many PH2 engines have one Richard
  11. If you haven't used it since 2020, I'd give it a good run before doing anything else Richard
  12. You can't! It's propshaft off, reduction box off, gearbox top off, dismantle the cross shaft and pull out the half shafts, Remove the reverse toggle, remove the bolts that hold down the reverse band. Then you can lift out the clutch pack The pack needs a special tool to dismantle it unfortunately I've done two so far this year Richard
  13. The forward clutch doesn't fail in many way. It could be stuck (in which case the engine stalls when you select reverse), It could have lost all the teeth on the fibre plates (in which case you'd have no forward), it can drag, or it can break and the broken parts wedge the plates in forward Have you got fully engaged forward, or is it just dragging? I suspect drag as you can get reverse. If it is dragging, chances are the fibre plates have distorted. The solution is to replace them Richard
  14. We've got an old stock original pipe if you wanted to go that way. Chances are it is for fitting the gauge to the fan housing. Otherwise, it's going to be a standard BSP nut and nipple, you'll need to get the nipple fitted to your new pipe - I prefer silver soldering Richard
  15. There may be a connection on the end of the fuel pump housing for a gauge Not all SR engines have one Richard
  16. If anyone finds out, could they let me know? We're waiting for May 17th before deciding if there will be a BCN Challenge in 2021 Richard
  17. RLWP

    Dorman 2DSM

    That's a shame, we scrapped a 4DSM last year that had the instrument board in place - no instruments Richard
  18. I'll have a check. I know we have an industrial FR2 in pieces, and I might be able to negotiate a loan of a part from a marine engine Richard
  19. RLWP

    Dating a JP2M

    The only sure way is to saw it through and count the rings
  20. Ours are fully rebuilt and set up, you'd get two for £150 Richard
  21. We much prefer to fit the old style metal cased leather seals (AKA Weston seals) over modern lip seals. They're a bit more tolerant about dirt, damaged shafts and so on We've probably got them in stock Richard
  22. You need to put the top ring into a clean ring groove, then put a feeler gauge between the side of the ring and the piston. As the piston moves up and down, the ring wears the side of the groove. Richard
  23. It's the number of the piston, not the piston and ring assembly It doesn't have an oversize mark on it so it is probably standard The correct way to find out is to measure the bore! Do check that the ring groove on the top ring of the piston is OK. Richard
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