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RLWP

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Everything posted by RLWP

  1. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  2. This is Peter Slater: http://www.pslaterfie.co.uk/index.php I would send off both pumps and the injectors. The pump may well be stuck because of internal corrosion - which could include water in the diesel side. This in turn will lead to corroded (i.e. scrap) nozzles Richard
  3. Idiot! He means their pet fish Richard
  4. Yes - send it off to a reconditioners! You will probably find you need a new element anyway Richard
  5. Yes, bending the rail is normal. Making into a sort of sinusoidal curve across the injectors is normally what you have to do Well done, that man Richard
  6. How long before the owner gets a phone call from CRT then? Yes - it does happen Richard
  7. Oi! Count me out of the generalisation please! Richard
  8. Interpreting the photos, the engine has the open, fan type adapter fitted. That bolts onto the sheet steel diaphragm leaning against the wall which has the input shaft in it. The diaphragm is also fitted with bolts for the gearbox. There is also a blue adapter for one of the more common types of gearbox (Hurth, ZF, PRM) and a yellow one. Then a whole bunch of stuff including the raw water pump and a hydraulic pump Richard
  9. There's more to run into for a start. Richard
  10. It look very much like a Lister SR type adapter fitted the wrong way round Richard
  11. That first one isn't that uncommon. If you go way back to the 1970s 42 foot is a sensible length boat, and a BMC 2.2 or 2.5 a normal choice. Probably cruiser sterned too Richard
  12. Yes, that's fine with the BSS as long as the hose is marked with the correct standard and the metal fittings have barbs Richard
  13. The rail is pretty soft, and that looks like a fairly standard installation. The Midland Chandlers one should do the job Richard
  14. What connection have you got on the end of the spill rail? Richard
  15. That should work OK I suppose he could check which gearbox it is and check it is capable of taking the power from the engine Richard
  16. Yes, they are OK. I'd prefer a PRM myself I'm curious about why you are asking. Have you found a boat with one, or are you thinking of fitting one to a Lister? Richard
  17. To be honest, none of that should make any difference to what you want to do. You'll probably find the alternator output is wired to the starter motor positive, and then a cable runs to the battery isolator. The Smartgauge instructions are asking you to remove the link from the alternator to the starter and connect directly to the batteries Richard
  18. For later boxes, yes. Richard
  19. Just as well. A Velvet Drive is the only gearbox I haven't been able to fix - no parts available anywhere. This was an early model Velvet Drive, probably from the 1970s Richard
  20. A peculiarly satisfying process, metallurgy in your kitchen Richard
  21. Good point, I have recently sent out a pre 1998 engine, which had a very different set up using brass barbs fitted to one of the cooling pipes Richard
  22. The washers are copper, you don't need any sealant. When you tighten them, don't go mad. The 'bolts' are hollow and have a hole drilled across them, if you overtighten them they break (experience talking there...) The spill rails are available, it isn't a difficult job, you should only have to bleed the fuel filter - and with certain setups you might no have to do that either Richard
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