Jump to content

RLWP

Member
  • Posts

    30,245
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    35

Everything posted by RLWP

  1. What problems are you getting, Adam? I'm guessing the engine stops and you have to wait half an hour before it will start again? The engine has a massive fan built into the flywheel - much bigger and more powerful than any blower you will put in. If that doesn't cool it, there's a significant problem somewhere. I haven't come across an effective blower set up yet If you give Sue a ring on 01926 356200, she will help you identify the engine (she does a lot of that) and can give you some idea of what might be going on Richard
  2. RLWP

    Curtains!

    Sue here, I make Boat Curtains. Primrose bespoke furnishings. email sue[at]primrose-furnishings[dot]co[dot]uk. In Warwickshire but I can make them from measurements, and I can get samples sent to you to check on the boat. Email me for links to the companies I have accounts with to see if there is anything you like. Sue
  3. If it doesn't work, it's more likely the reverse band has gone. You've got forward so the forward clutch is OK. You've got neutral so the pump is working and pulling the clutch out against the springs. We have bands in stock Richard Richard
  4. That's one of the things the timing tool does
  5. I have a timing tool, if that helps Richard
  6. Could always bump start it I guess...
  7. It is also hand start, which makes it a challenge for use in a boat
  8. Splendid, we specialise in the repair of old Lister engines. If you want an idea of what that might cost, give Sue a ring on Monday. 01926 356200 Richard
  9. The obvious solution would be to remove the engine. What engine is it? Richard
  10. That's my thought too. I'm interested to see what the old rods are like Richard
  11. Flush it through a few times in alternating directions to make sure it isn't blocked. Also flush the tank out as much as you can If the boat has a skin tank you don't really need a heat exchanger. I presume the rubber pump rotor is OK? Richard
  12. It needs violence to remove it - and be careful. The cap will probably be OK, if you strain the heat exchanger you'll make the tubes leak, and the shell is alloy and probably corroded. Don't be surprised if the flanges come off Why do you want to dismantle it? Richard
  13. Fuel pump door joint. If you are lucky, we have some old 'card' ones about which are far easier to fit Richard
  14. Makes a change. Usually I find old Lister masquerading as other old Listers due to parts being swapped around
  15. That is not a Lister Alpha Richard
  16. It is not unusual to find these engines installed with the skin tank on the port side, which is fine for the water outlet, calorifier and so on. The water inlet is on the starboard side above the flywheel housing through the oil cooler, which means there has to be a pipe going from one side to the other above the gearbox. Popular choices are lengths of hose or copper pipe fabrications These are fine, they can put strain on the oil cooler end cap which it isn't really designed for. Mind you, it isn't hard to attach the feed pipe to the oil cooler with cable ties in the absence of a more engineering solution Richard
  17. I was reflecting on this on the way home. The end cap on the oil cooler will be what caused the initial overheating. They are ok, but not really designed to support a length of water hose bouncing up and down The gasket failure happened exactly where the wrong head bolt had been fitted. Instead of the bolt with a small stud on top to support the dual alternator bracket, a plain bolt had been used - and tightened down hard distorting the bracket, which then bent and came loose I suspect the tappet fell apart when the pushrod was removed - that's a new one on me! And the broken spring on the fuel pump has probably been there for ages Also, the fresh water mussels in the Slough arm are magnificent! Richard I didn't have any tappets with me, unfortunately. We were out of stock
  18. And annoyingly it could be a hose that looks round, but the inside layer of tube collapses. Of course, such hoses are always in the most inconvenient place Richard
  19. I was expecting to see something like the cap above. The central disk is the anti vacuum valve: Richard
  20. Could you send a picture of the cap side-on? Richard
  21. Oh blimey - I've been keeping up with the other engine problem and skipping this one. I'll have to read back to see what's going on Thanks Tony Richard Have you come across the folklore engineering solution of removing the thremostat applied to an Alpha? First off, no water will come out of the outlet pipes (there you go mate, your pumps knackered) Secondly, the engine boils really quickly. Richard THIS^^^ I can't see the anti-vacuum part of that cap. Without one it won't draw coolant back On our BMC, I always leave an air space in the manifold tank Richard
  22. Apologies, I haven't been paying attention - what's the question? Richard
  23. And to reinforce what everyone else has already said - they are difficult to bleed. Especially if you've not done one of these before The 1.5 is worse... Richard
  24. If i can find an old pump, yes. I'll have a look Richard
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.