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Big COL

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Everything posted by Big COL

  1. Alan I'm with you on this one. Your description is the system I have on my boat. I also fail to see just how water can fall back, on reducing the pressure on the cold side there will be a small amount of water falling back, this action will create a vacuum in the space created in the top of the calorifier by the action of the water falling back. This vacuum will then stop any further possibility of water falling back. The same principle as while you hold your thumb on the end of a pipette no fluid can leave the pipette, removing your thumb allows the fluid to empty. Therefor for water to run back from a calorifier there must be some ingress of air on the hot side, which is unlikely, as this would show itself as a leak when the system is pressurised for normal use. Unless I have the physics wrong, water falling back just can not happen, or shouldn't.
  2. I'm a Celebrity ( Bones) get her out of here
  3. Hi blackrose This does depend upon the length of hair and the frequency of losing it I have short hair and although it's departing at a scary rate it holds no threat to any pump valves. Joy on the other hand has long hair and although not showing any signs of balding is capable of blocking both shower waste at home, and the filter for the shower on the boat.
  4. Hi Smelly Very good pump, but I would advise you to fit a filter on the inlet. I know Whale say "no filter needed", but they also say virtually"Non Choke Valves" which implies something else. From experience the worst thing in waste pipes is human hair mixed with soap, it turns into a sticky mess and the hair catches on anything obstructing the pipe ie pump valves. Which could be the cause of a blowback, an obstruction just holding the valve open enough to allow it to partially blowback, but the valve not open enough to stop it from pumping. It's easier to clean out a filter than strip down a pump, the problem with filters is they generally aren't big enough you need to fit the largest one you can find for a 19mm pipe.
  5. Nudge nudge, know what I mean sport, know what I mean?
  6. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  7. Hi finnie Is it a manual stop cable? Has the stop lever on the pump fully returned back to the start position?
  8. Roger Very roughly 3500 BTU = 1kw The true figure is 3400 and something not enough that you would notice the difference in 1kw of heat.
  9. Chris you would only lose your foot, right up to ankle in deep dodo Problem is there is no singular driving force, no visionary that you get with private companies. These jokers are all committee members. It is well known that you can not govern by committee.
  10. Hi Ski gloves, warm and waterproof
  11. Hi Roger Before you go and kill yourself, if you google factors relating to chimney draft. It throws up numerous things which could open a huge can of worms in respect to stoves on boats. Available air, competition for available air, flue temp internal and external, and a host of other factors affecting the draft of a chimney. Surely if a stove has a certain level of draft say to remove the smoke from a smoke pellet when the stove is cold then that should be the min level required, as the efficiency should increase as the flue (chimney) gases increase in temp. As others have said it's going to be another nanny state / anti litigation, not my fault Jack,rule. Well ok if it has to be so be it, the regs already exist for commercial and domestic gas boilers re flue draft. It should not be that difficult to transpose those regs in accordance with levels appropriate for solid fuel stoves. Some of the oil stove manufacturers already state advisory figures for flue drafts,these are usually ignored as to obtain them you would need a 6' chimney outside the boat. which brings us full circle to what Gary is pointing out. Commercial builders can not afford to ignore figures advisory or otherwise. PS Smiley is for anti litigation for the following suggestion Roger if you are going to kill yourself why not do it in comfort and use your solid fuel stove.
  12. Hello you old tart Yes I can get apolloduck, so you must be barred. Just what have you gone and done now? you upset them once before, are you intending making a career out of this Hello mate I hope you are ok and life is getting better, you still owe me a pint by the way never known anyone to move halfway up the country just because it was their round Hope all is well with you must get together for a beer.
  13. Hi If the contents of the toilet bowl disappear then slowly reappear then you have something stuck to the non return flap on the flap valve. If you flush with some hot soapy water, it may just clear whats stuck to the flap. You may have to repeat this two or three times. A useful tip is that every time you have a pump out is to flush through with hot soapy water at the same time as you are pumping out.
  14. Hi just adding to my data base. When you guys replace bearings in these vintage boxes, what grade bearings do you use B or C?
  15. Hi Gary I am still using the Hurricane, 5yrs and trouble free apart from one self induced problem. I still believe these heaters will just about burn anything except water If the mark2 version has a voltage problem Why not e-mail I.T.R. to see if the MK2 can be dummed down to MK1 spec. You may find it cheaper than fitting extra voltage controls.
  16. Alan If you are convinced that what you have in your block is 3/8'' BSP then use a male-female elbow, or use two elbows put together, and your hose will then hang straight down.
  17. Alan Dump it overboard through a skin fitting. It will be at 3bar pressure, why would you want to dump it first then pump it overboard?
  18. Alan Its not a case of forcing them open, you should operate the the prv valve manually as routine maintenance to stop them from scaling up. When you turn the red knob the valve will open and close as it is spring loaded, if you hold the knob at the 1/2 turn stage this should hold the valve in its open position.
  19. Alan The insulation should be enough to protect the tank, If you do feel the need to drain down the calorifier then you could do so by holding the red knob on the prv so its just on its cam, at this point water will drain out through the prv. As for water left in the pipes through the boat all you can do is to leave open all taps to allow for ice expansion.
  20. Wonderdust Didn't know that. The university of life, you never stop learning
  21. Wonderdust The removal tool works with Hep20 fittings with the green insert. I was not aware that Hep20 had fittings with a metal grab ring, Polyplumb fittings have a metal grab ring, thats all I have ever used.
  22. Alan Hep2o fittings can be removed without cutting off the gripper, you can buy a fitting removal tool which allows you to remove the fittings and then reuse them. Never used one myself as I have always used Polyplumb Fittings, which you do have to cut the gripping ring off to remove any fittings. The advantage with polyplumb is you can buy the gripper rings, O rings, plastic washers, separately. Personal experience, not the easiest to use but the best for not having leaks .
  23. Rob From the installation manual for a vanette GG2000/2 1 Connect (+) from your 12v supply to the free connection tab on the hob ignition switch. 2 Connect (-) From your 12v supply to the free connection tab on the generator. 3 Position generator as far away from the appliance (and any other sources of heat) excessive temperatures may impair the operation of the generator. Hope this helps.
  24. Hi Bones I now know why you wanted that 6'x4' ceiling mirror , When would you like me to deliver it? Also do you require it to be fitted and focused.
  25. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
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