Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by stuart

  1. 11 minutes ago, Tom and Bex said:

    Particularly liked the windows app, and having it running stopped all the questions from crew as to how far until the next lock!


    Technically, the Windows app will still work (I think!!), it just won't get updates or be able to upload the data to the website.


    Unfortunately there isn't anyway to download the old journey data from the website, except taking screenshots or copy+paste the summary.




  2. Hi everyone.


    Back in 2007 I started a project called Water Explorer, to provide the first UK GPS based canal maps & "sat nav". This was at a time when phones were running on 2G services, WAP was the most popular mobile tech and the iPhone had only just been launched !


    I've had thousands of visitors to the site in the past 15 years, with several thousand route recordings made, covering hundreds of thousands of miles.


    The website and Windows application needs a significant rewrite and improvements made to keep up with modern technology and legal requirements.


    I don't have the free time to dedicate to this project, so I'm making the reluctant decision to close the site at the end of 2022.


    Once again, thank you to everyone who has helped build it, suggest improvements and use it.


    I will be retaining the domain name, and in the future I may restart the project using modern tech, but no timescales on that decision!


    Regards, Stuart.

    • Greenie 1
    • Sad 1
  3. 1 minute ago, nicknorman said:

    Unfortunately I don’t have Kicad and there’s no image of the schematic, but I get the general idea. Good to see someone else using JLCPCB!


    Heres the PDF of the schematic - https://github.com/stuartpittaway/diyBMS-CurrentShunt/blob/master/CurrentShuntCircuit/export/Schematic.pdf


    I've spent thousands with JLCPCB this year already !

    @nicknorman forgot to ask, what was the cell monitoring chip you used?  I'd be interested to use that in my next designs.

  4. I agree custom chips are the best way for that. I used the INA228 in my current shunt/monitor and that been super accurate (20bit ADC)


    When monitoring cells, a lot of people have multiple parallel banks, so that's what the 256 monitors allows for, like 5x16 etc.


  5. Thanks @Jen-in-Wellies it is a greaseless gland.


    From the comments above, I think a "normal" float style switch is going to be the best option - I'd hoped that the electronic/no moving parts would have been a better option by now, but alas!


    Next question - mounting the thing, previous float switch (from boat builder 15 years ago) was mounted on a flat steel plate and thrown into the bilge - this eventually rusted, broke up and clogged up the pump!


    Any other ideas for fixing both the pump and float switch?

  6. The power usage is tiny, 0.003A on the water witch I mentioned. I've got solar so that would easily cover that.

    42 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

    if the bilge is clean what can jam the float?

    Agreed, I just find over a period of years they jam up with dirt and become unreliable.

    4 hours ago, Quattrodave said:

    it works OK, but be careful, if you get oily water on it it won't turn off again

    Does it eventually stop or permanently damage the unit?

  7. I'd like to add an automatic switch to my bilge pump.


    Not keen on manual float switches as they do seem to get stuck over time.


    I've a Cruiser stern which generally has a dry bilge but if the rain channels block, rain water can enter the bilge.


    Had about 6" of water in the bilge after about 6 weeks - this isn't normally the case though, looks like build up of mud had blocked the drain.


    Any recommendations, for electronic style switches?


    I looked at the water witch one but that has a warning about rain water not being sensitive to the device.

  8. Hi @andybarrett1 how did you get on with the window sealing?


    I also need to do this.  The windows were originally fixed using foam tape which failed after a few years.


    I replaced with butyl tape, which eventually dried up (a few years later) and cracked!



    As I've a lot of boat painting to do and need to remove the windows a couple of times, I'm thinking of going back to a tape.


    Perhaps an EPDM tape like this one.




  9. On 03/04/2021 at 09:37, MoominPapa said:

    and port-forward to the router behind it, so the BMS is now directly accessible from the global internet with the same TCP interface as before.


    I have a virtual private server in the cloud running Linux which has a web server on it and I just made a trivial CGI program which runs the data-access tool to get the data, and reformats the data as brain-dead html.


    I like the ingenuity, but would advise against any port forwarding especially to low CPU power potentially "hackable" devices.  This device is likely to be receiving thousands of "scans" 


    Could the BMS not push the data to the cloud server instead ?

  10. 1 minute ago, Narrowjack said:

    Hi Stuart, how did your alternatives work out? I'm going to have to replace my bushings soon too. Grateful for your insights.


    In between forum posts, I managed to slip a disc in my back so only just got to replace the rubber bushing.


    My initial impression is that it should work okay, the mini rubber bushings are a little softer than the original parts, but similar size and shape.

  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.