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RichardN

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Everything posted by RichardN

  1. Hi How much experience have you got? If you have a mooring in Pyrford then you could have some experience so apologies if the following comments are not appropriate: * Have a surveyor check your boat out a week or so before taking it over. I have not heard anything bad about Elton Moss but it is prudent. Book early as they get busy * Go on a helmsman's course if you find a free slot before you set out. Malcolm at top lock is superb: http://www.toplocktraining.co.uk/ * You have an awful lot of locks to do so get some 2 way radios. We have had both cheapies and expensive ones. I am not convinced there is that much difference as the Motorola cheapies were clearer, the more expensive have far better range. * Have a look at the stoppages page on waterscape. Loads of closures in November so you could be a bit tight * Going round Birmingham is quicker but I think that Birmingham is fascinating - see http://indigodream.wordpress.com/page/2/ * We are stranded in Sharpness at the moment due to flooding so have a back up plan of going down the Grand Union rather than via Oxford and the Thames. I think I would opt for the Thames if at all possible as it is fantastic at this time of year. Most importantly: Enjoy! Richard
  2. Interesting, thanks. Will have a look if I can change my filler then - if there is 1/3" clearance then it should be easy.... -- Richard http://indigodream.wordpress.com I wish! I am sure I get 1.5" across the threads. According to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_228 1.25" would be 1.65" so I have got something perhaps like an M38 fitting? -- Richard http://indigodream.wordpress.com
  3. You can buy direct from fuelock - http://www.fuelock.co.uk/ The product is nice, just what I thought was appropriate. Only thing is that my filler is 1.5" diameter across threads, 1.5" BSP is actually 1.88" so it did not fit *#*^#*!!! Next time I can get to a chandlery I want to measure up filler caps and see what is common. Is mine unusual or is this just a difference between the yachty market and the narrowboat market? Any one know? The guy at fuelock is a boater albeit of the yachty kind, pleasant to deal with, has a no guibble refund policy. He has told me that he may make them in another size if there is demand but is having a few problems working out what the narrowboat market uses. I don't blame him, I am equally confused but then Croydon is a bit shy on chandleries ... If the common size is 1.88" then I will look at changing my deck filler as I like the fuelock product. If not then Fuelock simply say send it back to them for a full refund -- Richard http://indigodream.wordpress.com/
  4. Just one dog? Have a look at http://dogsontour.blogspot.com/ (5 dogs) or http://indigodream.wordpress.com (we only have 2 greyhounds) We learnt some lessons from our first (share) boat when we had a lurcher. She was a rescue with one knackered hip so as she got older her mobility got a bit restricted. The ships ladder type arrangement at the rear was very hard for her so when we got our own boat we had relatively shallow steps put in. Dogs do like to have a look at what is going on so a bigger stern is good but perhaps not if you are going to live aboard. Either way worth thinking of how you will keep your dog on board - as stumpylurcher points out bridge holes are all too tempting! Worth avoiding carpets. Another Richard
  5. Our current boat has a webasto which we like. Our previous boat was shared and had a Mikuni - Eberspacher look alike. That used used to get clogged up once a year mainly due to water in the diesel. We have fitted extra filters on our diesel line - we knew we wanted them, went on a course run by Tony Brooks and found out what they were actually called! http://www.tb-training.co.uk/13bfuel.htm#bmn48
  6. Cold galvanising to me means using a paint which has 90% + zinc content. This means using paints such as metaflux, zingard or zinga - http://www.zinga.co.uk/zinga_main.html . These paints are expensive but give you fantastic protection thanks to the sacrifical action of the paint. Someone has mentioned Leighs paints - not cold galvanising but their two part epoxy micaceous iron oxide paints will give you excellent durability - could be worth talking to them http://www.wjleigh.co.uk/ to see who and what they recommend. I assume that you are thinking of getting the boat dropped off somewhere and painted before launching? Could be awkward at this time of year. Hopefully manufacturers such as Leighs may have lists of painters who may be able to help. With all these systems you need to shot blast first and apply paint within 4 hours. Whether you use red lead (move with the times folks), dulux or something posh I think it is always worth shot blasting. Corus (British Steel as was) publish some good guides to this - see http://www.corusconstruction.com/en/refere...work/corrosion/
  7. Old Ford and City Road are like that. I tried a loop of cord last time, worked well at City Road but took two attempts at Old Ford!
  8. I think it is always worth shot blasting steel and then painting it. You must paint it within 4 hours of shot blasting. Lots of guidance on the web about corrosion eg try http://www.corusconstruction.com/en/refere...work/corrosion/ We used to have a share in a boat where rust started coming through within 2 years of first being painted so thought we would try to do better. I found a profesisonal painting outfit halfway between the shell builder and our boat builder and that initially looked very attractive. They would shot blast inside and out and paint using epoxy MIO paint and they suggested taking it right up to the top coat. I did not go for it mainly because the timing did not work but also could not sort logistics of batten fixing. What we could get done in the time was having the outside shot blasted and then painted with zinga (not zinger) http://www.zinga.co.uk/zinga_main.html Our boat builder was busy having nervous breakdowns and going bust as he almost finished our boat so some of my following comments need to be read in that light. Zinga is amazingly expensive. You buy it by the kilogram and as at it is near enough pure zinc you don't get a lot of volume per kilogram. Metaflux, zingard all look similar but we used zinga as Colarado Corrosion Control use zinga and were round the corner from our builder. For some strange reason they applied it by brush, did not spray it. That meant that the base became uneven and needed a lot of filler to get smooth-ish. My top coat seems to be microns thin - circumstances at the time caused that. We have been very lax with repairing gunwale damage and odd funny scrapes - we only run the engine to move the boat and did 400 engine hours last year so say 1000 lock miles? I am impressed as to how little rust we have - the sacrificial action of the zinga is working really well - http://www.hdg.org.uk/221_How_Galvanizing_...l_Explained.php I will wash the boat on Saturday and see what is under the dirt. *I think that shot blasting is excellent, but only if you can get the surface painted within 4 hours The zinga is excellent, I am sure that zingard or any of the other similar products will do equally well. If you can find someone how can shot blast and spray something like a 2 pack epoxy MIO paint on then I think you will get as good a performance but it will be cheaper and the finsih will be better. I can't remember if what was here or on urw that I read of someone using Leigh's resistex paints on their boat. That is a serious paint - see http://www.wjleigh.co.uk/ but they need to be applied by some one with knowledge and also you need to make the decision do you really want a two pack top coat.
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