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frlrubett

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Everything posted by frlrubett

  1. Thanks for this, Is there an OEM gasket available for this ?
  2. Yanmar 4TNV88-D Engine. Had a coolant leak which was presumed to be from an old coolant hose. Replaced coolant hose, cleaned up the joint and added new jubilee clip. 3 months later, there is still a coolant leak, each time I run for an hour there is two sheets of kitchen towel to mop up. Have investigated further, cannot tell exactly where the leak is coming from but it seems to originate from the same area as before. If we assume the new pipe is doing the job, where else could be leaking? In the pictures attached, is there a gasket on the green arrow? If you look closely, it seems like the gasket at these points (or something similar) has been pushed out of this joint. What is this part called and could this be causing a leak? If the above theory is not possible, where else could this leak be coming from (if we assume the new pipe is fine). If you look at the picture you can see there is some tissue paper underneath this joint, this paper becomes saturated with coolant. I have other bits of paper in other areas below and around this which have not taken on coolant, so I am confident this is where the leak is. Any ideas?
  3. Having further researched into this, the person who completed the boat build is not registered as a company. I believe that the boat was a "home build" and that home build exhemption might apply. Taken from "Rugby Boats" "To meet the home build exemption the boat must have been used exclusively, as a recreation craft, by the builder AND Not further placed on the market for at least 5 years. Further placing on the market means selling on, but by putting the craft up for charter it breaks the ‘exclusively for own use’ condition. It is very common for a private individual to buy a shell or sail-away and fit it out themselves. These are recognised as Home completed craft provided that they meet the same conditions of a home build, exclusive use and the 5 year rule. The clock starts ticking from the first time it is used as a recreational craft on the water, not necessarily from when it is fully completed, with all the furniture and carpets. Ask the owner for any proof that the non-CE marked home built or completed craft has been in use for 5 years. This proof could include BSS certificates, inland waterways licences or mooring, launching and docking receipts. Consequences" Does this boat still need to have a CIN on the Hull?
  4. This has been covered quite a bit on the forum but I still cannot find the solution. This issue has only started when looking to sell the boat and getting the paperwork in order. 1. The boat was built by "ABC Steelworks" in 2005, there is a builders plate on the starboard side. I have an Annex III (a) declaration document for a "partially completed craft" from ABC Steelworks. 2. The boat was then completed by "Mr Joe Bloggs" in 2007. I have a signed document which states that the boat "has been fitted to a fully liveable standard and meets all requirement for the boat safety scheme." 3. There is also RYA document addressed to "Mr Joe Bloggs" and the Vessel name allocating the boat with a CIN number. 4. In the engine bay there is a plate which states "Pressure tested to 3.5 lb/in". Possible issues, please help. I cannot find this CIN anywhere on the boat. I cannot find a CE mark on the boat. I have looked in the engine bay and I know the boat very well so have never seen any plates anywhere. I querried this when I purcahsed the boat from a reputable broker and was shown the certificates and told this is all that is needed. It is only from reading indepth about this that I understand the boat needs to be also stamped with the CIN number and there should be a CE plate somewhere also? Does anyone know more about this? Thanks. (Company names have been changed for privacy).
  5. This makes sense. Seems to be quite a lot of water lost though, the diesel heater runs about 90 minutes a day. I think this is the second time I have added 3/4 liters of water since the heater was installed. Rads bled also - a big air lock working its way out slowly? Lets hope!
  6. Returning to this topic. Just put another 4 litres of coolant into the system so there is definitely a leak. Have looked at all the pipes I can find and there is no visible leak. There is no water in the bilge. In the summer before the diesel heater was on, the level in the header tank stayed constant. Any ideas where else to look?
  7. SO..... when the system heats up the water level raises in the expansion tank. When it cools, it lowers. Is this air getting in, or water getting out or both!
  8. I think gravity system with added pump is best way to describe this system. As gravity still plays its part in keeping pressure in the system.
  9. Oh interesting. I did wonder about the this. The original gravity system did have a thermostat and a circulating pump on it, so just assumed that a Diesel pumped system would bolt on. Yes there is an overflow, but that is at the top of the header tank. Once the level drops below that then I do not know how any liquid will dissipate.
  10. So, the engine has a skin tank cooling system which is separate to the heating system. BUT the engine is connected to the Calorifyer so when you run the engine you get hot water. The heating loop with Diesel heater is also connected to the Calorifyer but I think it is a separate system. I have never noticed radiators warming up whilst the engine is running, just hot water. I know that is known as a gravity fed system, so there is an open header tank (completely separate to the engine header tank) above the heigh of the radiators giving some pressure to the system. Thinking back to the summer, the coolant level in remained the same so I am right in thinking this leaks when its heated. Would this be escaping as steam or will there be some water pooling somewhere? Good point, I will bleed the whole system tonight and then monitor from there onwards. I have bled this a lot before, would that indicate water being pushed out during heating cycle and then air being sucked back in during cooling? Thanks
  11. First winter aboard this boat and initially the central heating (three rads, towel rail and calarofier) were fed by a gravity system into a stove back boiler with thermostat. As this was noisy, inefficient we decided to remove the back boiler and fit a diesel heater. We had coolant loss from the system quite a bit but I attributed that to getting the stove too hot to quick, happened quite regularly, could hear the water boiling in the pipes. Now the stove has gone, the diesel heater installed and I have just checked the header tank again. It was empty. Have refilled with four jugs of pre mixed coolant, I guess about six liters. Have spent the whole day looking for a leak but everything looks dry. There is a hole at the back of the boat, under the floor where you can see/feel the bottom of the bilge and that is also dry. - this boat was built in 2011, I would assume any leak would arrive at the rear of the boat at the lowest point on the bilge? We list to the rear, especially with an empty water tank so I any leaks would collect back here. - Would a leak of this size be obvious? I have checked around all the radiators and joins in the pipes which I can see. Around the heating pumps and calorifyer. - how else can I go about finding this leak, I am sure that losing six litres is definitely a leak? Thanks
  12. Ha, good point no. The surveyor is a well known local one, who has been recommended to me as a surveyor before encountering this boat.
  13. Thanks for your frank response, this is exactly what I was looking for. Yes 4.2mm is WL. The price slightly reflects condition but needs to have at least 10k off it to make me interested. The survey was conducted by the owner prior to sale.
  14. Just to note, if I proceed with this boat I will get my own survey. Regardless of this, the boat in question has had a survey a few months ago commissioned by the current owner. In that survey the following was reported. "Widespread galvanic corrosion to hull sides with pitting up to 2.4mm deep." The original hull thickness in 2004 was 6/6/10, currently it has corroded to 4.2/5.6/9.8 at the worst points. There is also a note in the survey that all pits which exceeded 1.5mm had been pad welded and a galvanic isolator had been fitted. In the conclusion there is a note that says further pad welding may be required in areas behind protective coatings. Looks like this hull has not been cared for by the previous owner(s) but how bad in the grand scheme of things is this? What is the cost of future pad welding? How much will the issues found on this survey impact future resale? Thanks!
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