Darryl
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Posts posted by Darryl
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Thanks for that, I didn't realise that site existed!
The boat has the old original registration on the bow of 64299, which matches the old name & matches the size etc also.
Really helpful, thanks again!
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11 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:
The union nut is usually a sliding fit on the pipe so you should not be able to wobble it BUT that type of union is available in two different pipe sizes for use in other applications so someone may have fitted a 5/16" union nut on a 6mm pipe. Another possibility is that your coper pipe is metric when it should be imperial.
I was also thinking something like that could have happened (especially as the pipe between the pump and filter isn't all copper, it has rubber pipe in the middle. Or when cutting it to fit the rubber/change filter it was levered and loosened.
Fortunately as it does into rubber I'm only dealing with one end to figure out.
Do you know the correct diameter that should be used there? I'll get replacement pipes and olives
Thanks again!
6 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:I think he must. If he dropped that clunky home-made cable anchor off the pump he would have few access problems, only four or less small nuts.
Further thought about this. Daryl said the pipe goes to a length of flexible that screws fits onto the filter. That is an ongoing recipe for more leaking problems. It will allow the engine vibrations to wave the copper pipe around. I have seen leak off pipes snapped by inadequate filter supports allowing the filter to wave about so a length of pipe that has one end on a flexible is likely to be worse.
Obviousey not now he has posted the link but those sockets would barely allow a 1 flat turn before they needed repositioning and that assume the pipe bends away from the vertical soon enough to get the socket on.
You are right, but it's also mega awkward to get a spanner in-between everything too!
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Something like this when you have vertical access easier than horizontal. https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/socket-sets/laser-difficult-access-socket-set-3%2F8ind-6pc-208366.html?istCompanyId=b8708c57-7a02-4cf6-b2c0-dc36b54a327e&istFeedId=367c5610-f937-4c81-8609-f84582324cd6&istItemId=ittamtrxr&istBid=t&_$ja=tsid:94971|cid:865695754|agid:42483196223|tid:aud-297219198129:pla-330157714784|crid:203186066562|nw:g|rnd:13605426364667060532|dvc:m|adp:|mt:|loc:1006918&gclid=CjwKCAjw-qeFBhAsEiwA2G7Nl-VW44Q7rJZ6ah5gr_3BCm0Y30lzre3A943RyaYgcpKgVJ__3jiWEhoCMX8QAvD_BwE
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It's all a current mystery. But the engine is running right now, so I'm open to as much research and suggestions as possible before I take it apart and have surprises when it isn't running until it's fixed.
The pipe itself going into that joint can be wobbled, so something is a bad fit!
Just now, Tracy D'arth said:As far as I can remember, like Tony, it has been a while, they are connected with copper olives on plain unflared pipe.
Flare nut spanner look like these, I don't know what size you would need but it will be an across flats imperial size.
Thanks!,
We used to have all this kit when we had lorries way back too. A flare nut socket might also fit over considering the other things conflicting in the area too.
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Thanks Tony,
I'll cross check the manuals and diagrams I have to confirm.
Understood what Tracy said but then it led me in another direction.
Olive would be even easier -id hope!
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Tony & Tracy.
Thanks for comments and advice.
I think perhaps now is the time to invest in a flaring tool kit
which I guess brings me onto,
Anyone know what diameter flare is required there?
I have various manuals but prefer real and more recent experience if available.
Thanks again!
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Hi Tony,
Thanks for the guidance. I briefly tried a spanner on the small hex to tighten and it didn't move at all, so likely been attempted to fix by tightening already.
I'll try to get a spanner on the large hex to lock it when the time comes to release the pipe.
Am I right in thinking that as soon as take that pipe off (it's actually only about 8" long with a bend in the middle and connected into flexible hose before the filter, just out of image) that it's a full bleed process?
Having never done that on these engines, perhaps changing the filter at the same time makes sense and doing both in the future.
Ideally I don't yet want to have to bleed it yet, as I've only just got the engine running since working on an unrelated issue.
Thanks again.
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Hi,
I have a small leak on a BMC 1.5 at the injection pump. I've arrowed the place.
Looks to be at the copper joint.
The nut is tight and awkward to get a spanner on.
I'm guessing I'll have to get a new pipe made with a flared end and hopefully that will resolve the issue.
Currently the leak is small and engine runs fine
What kind of pain am I likely to encounter if I start trying to disconnect/replace this?
Many thanks.
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Hi.
I was hoping someone might be able to identify the model of this boat.
It was at some point converted from fabric canopy with a bridge added, as you can see.
Any clues of manufacturer, model etc (or historical ownership) appreciated.
Currently named Stellaris, however "PDS Englishman" is on the bow and Kensington W8 on the stern also.
Many thanks!
Diesel leak on injection pump
in BMC
Posted
Hi Tracy,
Thanks for that. The boat is 'new to me', so everything is a discovery.
Probably a made up Flexi is better long term.
I'll measure the pipe next time I'm at the boat.
I've been working on some other engine issues and although the leak is currently small, I just wanted to stop it with the least extra drama while I'm running the motor and checking the other bigger issues are resolved.
I thought I read somewhere in the BSS guidelines about having solid copper piping between joints (could have been across injectors) and maybe that was interpreted for the pump to filter connection.
Truth is, it could be many reasons, but I appreciate all the best practice advice from you and Tony, which will definitely be really helpful to make things better as they are addressed.