jtylr

Thanks for clarifying @Tony Brooks I think I will replace this with the double mounting type and fit agglomerator + sedimenter and run 1 line to engine and 1 to heater as this minimises number of filters. It will all be easily accessed so can tap the tank if any problems occur.

Nope, but I will do now! Just let 210ml of water out of it, thanks for the tip! So I have separator -> filter -> injection pump, gravity fed. As gravity fed does this remove the risk of engine sucking air/fuel from the line to heater as mentioned by @Tony Brooks further up?

Yes, that’s the injection pump. I stopped by UCC when bringing the boat north and Jonathan Hewitt kindly spent some time talking me though the engine. Is there better options for filter(s)?

Here is photo showing the whole setup (in the middle of prepping bilges for painting)

Thanks for the replies. @Alan de Enfield My day tank should be called a half day tank really, as it holds about 4l. I am used to topping up before starting a journey. Dip pipe is right at the bottom. @Tonka I am fairly dense when it comes to engines, I assume the lift pump is where the pipe/hose are leading to from the filter? I will attach a photo of the whole system shortly - I can’t resize it to under the attachment limit on my phone

Please can someone help with the following: I have a CAV filter with what I think is a ‘spare’ inlet/outlet which is currently fed by a day tank. I am planning to install a diesel heater dropped down into the swim (currently in the middle of prepping for paint) - can I just connect the fuel line to the no.1 outlet and utilise the same filter to save me tapping the tank?

I bought a boat this time lasted year and surveyor flagged the height of vents during survey. Due to the likely cost of correcting them I chose to patch them up and had a new locker fabricated on the stern deck. Old locker is to be repurposed as a water tank directed to hot taps, wm + shower, once I can be bothered to climb inside and sort it out.

Perfect, thanks for the tips. I had planned long sweeping bends (pipe bender) already minus the tees off to radiators. Heater to be situated at stern end in the bottom of a cupboard, rads dotted down one side and header tank up in a cupboard after the last rad. I’ll increase the size of the flow + return but stick with copper for the pipework, just for peace of mind it will not deviate from the installed slope and bends.

I have done quite a bit of reading and found some useful diagrams etc. on here and elsewhere but still have a couple of questions. I am planning to use a Refleks 66MV cold furnace to run 3 small rads to heat approx. 20ft of cabin space: 1. As the coil in the heater is 15mm, is there any point is using a larger diameter pipe for the feed/return? 2. Has anyone used Yorkshire tectite fittings in a nb and are they suitable for dealing with vibrations? 3. Do tight bends/angle matter in the teed off feeds to the rads? I have attached a very professional drawing of what I have in mind to hide the pipe work, but don’t mind dropping straight down and having pipes on show if this could cause problems. 4. how much rise is it possible to get away with where the return (running just above floor) meets the heater? The ideal location requires about half a foot so the heater can be positioned above the engine bilge.

off I trot to buy a diesel genny then 😅

Potentially, I have the impression it was a fairly well built/specced boat when built 40 odd years ago…

that the internal measurement across the threads

Can anyone shed some light on what this tank is for at the bow of my NB please? It’s empty/bone dry, definitely not connected to the diesel tank above it (because I assumed it was and now have some diesel to clean from the bilge I had almost finished prepping for paint 😅) 1.5 inches tall so some kind of skin tank perhaps? Thanks

You are correct! What is best practice for the twin alternators? some kind of set up where once the starter battery is fully charged both of them get pointed to the leisure bank?

Looks like its been in there a while to me ? Surveyor did some basics checks of oil etc. and it runs fine, so I will do a few things like clean up surface rust on moving parts, replace the lagging + tidy up the cables in the short term. Further down the line may head to UCC and get it benched/rebuilt while I sort out the engine bay. Can anyone explain what's going on with the 2 belt setup? I just ordered replacements and the guy at the end of the phone was unsure why I needed 2 rather then 1.