ANarrowEscape

Hi sorry for not replying, my notifications had turned off for some reason. So, to answer a few points: Yes the boat is metal, but the doors and the frames at the front are wood, so I would need them replacing in wood. Yes, I know it will make it a bit darker, but only a little as it has windows either side, and the door itself has thin windows - as you can see on the photo, the curtain covers half the glass anyway. It also has a cover, so it doesn't get wet as such, but I'm hoping that it won't leak. I had some advice from a carpenter who said: just take the glass out and cut the shape of the wood from that, then fit and fix the piece and re-bead it. Easy said than done for me, but that sounds logical.

Part of the reason is to get rid of the curtains as well. And it opens that space right up, I've seen it done on a couple of boats. I might look to boarding over the window? Both sides. But also don't want it to look like it's boarded.

Hi all I'm trying to find a tutorial or some info on how to remove the 2 windows on the front of the boat (near the door) and replace with wood. So boarding the windows that are currently there to give me more shelf space etc. The Windows in question are the two front windows next to the door. I have a basic idea, but just wanted to check it was right. Cut wood to the shape, and get some kind of thin'ish strips, like beading, to secure it to. On the outside that's a bit easier as I can just board straight over the top. Is that about right? Any tips? Thanks

So the dash-cam is 5v 2amp, like a mobile phone, albeit a smart phone. It's also mini USB so I'll have to put a USB supply from the battery, but that's no hardship.

Okay ta. Will do.

Sorry to seem snippy, but I tend to get an array of answers on here that appear to be a little snotty at times.

Okay ta. I've opted for a 10 amp charger, so should be a bit quicker. I'd say double the time, but I can guarantee someone will correct me over it. So roughly the same equation as you've stated but roughly half the time? So 5 hrs to charge means it would be on the good side.

I'm pretty new to narrowboats, and to the world of 12v electrics, so very sorry for making you repeat yourself. But as I stated, I just wanted to know if a spare battery would run a dashcam for about 12 hours. I don't really need to know how much amperage it has, or how good the quality of it is. I just need to know if it will do the job required. Which I will find out with tests. We're not all experts.

Yes I understand what's being said, and that it could be knackered. That's why I'm bringing it home to charge it, then running the dashcam here as a test.

I'm bringing the battery home to charge it first.

Ahh right okay. He was a little out of my area, but I'm sure he would travel as well? Ha ha! An aristocrat ey?

He cleaned up? That seems an okay deal. Did he listen to Radio 4? As that was the station the radio was on.

Okay thanks for this. I opted for a slightly bigger 10amp charger, so won't be as long to charge i suppose. Thanks again. Not sure what you mean?

Apparently I lent my charger to my Nephew who is currently isolating, so I'm going to have to buy a new one - without spending too much. 5 amp would be okay, wouldn't it? https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07T6GV32V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_IzV6FbD6TWAVA

The charger has an auto-turn off when batteries reach their limit, and I also have a volt-meter. So should be able to gauge some kind of capacity. Volt wise at least. It should only need to be on for 12 hours or so, as I will go back each day until I work out what the hell is going on. I might do a test at home to see how long it can run for. As long as it's over 12 hours I will be fine.

I'll bring It home and charge it first, see what it reads after a charge. It was relatively new (6 month old).

It's a spare battery and hasn't been charged in a while, but it's on 12.4v if memory serves. The dash cam is a little 12v cig lighter type, not sure on it's consumption. It's an Apeman. 110 amp hour battery

The strangeness continues; I went to the boat yesterday to try and finish fitting the new chimney and try and seal it etc, but when I went on the boat the switch was fine - no movement from how I left it, although now, the radio was on. I don't think I've ever used it so definitely didn't leave it on. I spoke to my neighbour, the one with the key, who swears he hasn't been in. And to be honest I definitely believe him as nothing was disturbed (the kitchen roll sheets I left on the floor, and a beer mat I precariously left on the inside of the door handle. I'm now going to have to think of a way of setting up a dash cam, or something similar. Does anybody know if a leisure battery would last 12 hours with a dashcam?

Done it. The switch is actually sideways when on, it's off when it's turned upwards. So I've put string on a hook to the roof.

Would it matter if the flue is at the rear rather than the top, as someone else advised me to use sealant as they had used cement and it cracked. Although, when I took the flue out to have the hearth done, I remember it was cement in the back.

Cheers, think I've got the right stuff, as bought the wrong sealant initially So cement over Silicon in the stove. Does it not crack?

Yes lol, I've got fire-rope. Also got some of this left from another job so hoping I can use this. Looks similar, think it's only 1000 degrees, but damn, that's hot.

Okay ta. What are you classing as red hot? I think the sealant has a rating of like 1000 degrees or something. It's a purpose one I think. I found some heat cement on the boat, so I'm assuming that's what the previous owners used - as it was a bit of a f#cker to get out.

Possibly? But the boat is quite tight to the bank, and I've put tyres over the edge to avoid banging, and that would be late in the evening, as I've left it at dark, gone back the morning after and it's tripped (turned). I'm going to investigate further. New fuse box will get fitted, but for now I might just turn the stupid thing off before I leave it. Fitting the flue pipe back tomorrow so will be able to stay overnight. Once restrictions are lifted of course - because apparently it's okay to hire a boat for a holiday and stay overnight, just not if you own one...

Hi all I had to dismantle the flue and collar due to corrosion. Anyway, replaced all the bits I needed to, including a new plate and collar on the roof. The question is, when fitting the flue back into the back of the fire, do I use a rubber sealant (heat proof of course) with the fire-rope, or use a heat cement? I believe the flue will probably will contract and expand - so is the sealant the best option? Thanks