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wordsalad

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  1. Thanks all for your help with this. The white t-piece was, as far as I can tell, built in to the old accumulator. Not sure what that was about; I ended up binning it. I got an adaptor for threaded->hose on the new t-piece, and fingers crossed everything seems dry and functional in the new setup.
  2. Hi all, Our accumulator membrane seems to have broken down, based on its leaking water after the pump runs. I'm planning to replace it, just wanted to sanity check a couple of things before I do... apologies if any of the questions are a bit dim; I haven't done any maintenance on the water system til now. Potable water. I've read elsewhere on this forum that accumulators are usually colour coded, where red is for heating and white is for potable water. Does that mean e.g. this model is for heating, despite being in the freshwater category? https://www.marinesuperstore.com/freshwater-system/water-tanks/jabsco-2l-accumulator-tank It seems perfect otherwise, and I keep coming across ones that look just like it. Some of them are explicitly labelled as suitable for potable, but I'm not sure how much I trust that the descriptions are true. Plumbing fittings. I've attached a photo of our old accumulator, which is plumbed in via hoses connecting to a t-junction. As far as I can tell, that t-junction can't be unscrewed from the current accumulator - despite other accumulators looking like they just have a threaded output. Do I just need to be more forceful? Some special spanner for the plastic bolt? If I can't detach that t-junction, do I just need to get a new t-junction for the new accumulator, unfasten the current hoses' jubilee clips, then refasten them on to the new t-junction? The narrowest part of that t-junction seems to be about 12mm. Does that mean a replacement should be 1/4in? (No idea about standard sizes.) Thanks all, I'm hugely looking forward to fixing this and getting the bilge dry again...
  3. Sorry to have never followed up on this - once I solved the problem, it of course dropped off my TODO list. It turned out that there were two related problems. Our flue was quite blocked up, but cleaning it out didn't prevent the alarm going off. Replacing the door seal didn't immediately help, but in the process of doing so, I realised that the door latch wasn't shutting tight. The door was always cracked slightly open. As soon as I tightened up the door latch, we stopped triggering alarms when burning smokeless. As for why we were getting alarms with smokeless but not with wood: I assume it's just that coal gas has more CO than wood, though maybe it's because wood burns so hot the CO was going up the flue? Anyway, thanks a lot for the help, and if anyone else comes across this thread when trying to solve a similar problem, have a good look at your stove door...
  4. Thanks for the advice, all. I had a look today, and the chimney, flue and baffle haven't been cleaned - or if they have, it was a cursory job. I've given it a preliminary attempt with a plumber's snake and broom handle + wire brush. Annoyingly, it turns out my stove's baffle plate is welded on, so I've not managed to clean as thoroughly as I'd want. Still, I dislodged a lot of muck. I'll attempt another test Excel fire this evening with two CO monitors close at hand. If I'm still having problems, I'll remove the flue to get better access to flue and baffle.
  5. Good points. Both have supposedly been cleaned recently by the previous owner, but I should verify that myself. Do you think they can be the cause if it's fine when burning wood, though? I guess maybe the coal's just cold enough to tip the balance in favour of CO build-up. Will get photos tonight/tomorrow. Joints are sealed with glass rope. When burning a load of newspaper in the cold stove, the door seals emit a little smoke. No smoke from other joints, and no smoke from the door seals when adding paper during normal operation. Ohhh... this is a good point. We've got a mushroom vent quite close to the chimney. Another thing to try. It's been doing it as long as we've been on the boat, but we only moved in a few weeks ago. The wind usually seemed to be going the other way to the vent, but I'll definitely add this to the mix of possible reasons. No doubt this is a common mistake, but it's not the problem here. We're not burning for long enough to have to empty the ashes - the CO alarm goes off after an hour or so.
  6. Hi all, Hopefully this post belongs here, apologies if not. We've got a Saltfire ST2 stove, which consistently sets off our CO alarms after an hour burning Excel/similar. Burning wood never causes a problem, though. I assume this has to be because the wood fire is burning more fiercely, whereas the Excel fire is burning more slowly. Perhaps it's getting cold enough that the chimney draw is reduced? The Excel nuggets are red hot, and there are some barely visible white/blue tongues of flame around them. So it's not just smouldering. I've got the bottom vent most of the way open, and the top vent slightly open. I'm going to try changing the door seals, but if those were faulty, I assume the CO alarm would be triggering for a wood fire as well? Advice much appreciated!
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